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- #281
*whole vehicle…..
Build 79 FJ 40 Rebuild
- Thread starter Stevens79FJ40
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Study these:
White with blue stripe (WL on the diagrams) goes from battery, through fusible link, splits off to IGN switch and also to fuse box....
I run a big diameter black wire from the neg terminal of the battery right to the engine block, besides the frame connection under the brake tee (which I clean well and then add corrosion protection spray). There is also a connection to the cab chassis.
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- #285
- Thread starter
- #286
Thanks!
I’m missing something. I have no auxiliary power. Nothing on the dash, headlights, taillights nothing
Fuses good
So many PO random wires…..
I’m missing something. I have no auxiliary power. Nothing on the dash, headlights, taillights nothing
Fuses good
So many PO random wires…..
Ewheeler gave you some great advice. The power all comes from the white/blue wire. That one needs to be hooked up to your + battery terminal. A few more pictures of your wiring may help. That lead to the starter only powers the starter.
Your fusible link might be hacked up. My original one was partially spliced into (also a 79). Coolerman sells a 79+ specific one with the correct connectors if you need one. Here are a couple of photos so that you can have a visual of what the fusible link looks like and the wires that should connect to it. The second photo showing more of the engine bay is my 79 with the replacement fusible link from coolerman.
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- Thread starter
- #289
Thank you for that picture
I guess the GREEN wires that I thought would be ground extend off the fusible link.
Now I have power everywhere. Which is scary because more I can try to turn it over
I guess the GREEN wires that I thought would be ground extend off the fusible link.
Now I have power everywhere. Which is scary because more I can try to turn it over
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- #290
Ok, finally installed my rear badging. The Toyota emblem threads were too short for my diamond plate panels so I had to find a solution to “extend” them. Found these sleeves from Ace hardware.
New turn signals installed. Hazard’s work but nothing on the blinker end. No ticking, nothing in the cluster…except hazards
New turn signals installed. Hazard’s work but nothing on the blinker end. No ticking, nothing in the cluster…except hazards
RevISK
SILVER Star
I have been chasing a similar issue with my blinkers, they’ll work and then they won’t.
Do you have any LED lights in the system? Blinkers, brake, running?
Have you cleaned your hazard circuit?
Have you cleaned your fuse block?
Grounds?
Relay checked?
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- #292
Yeah I’ve seen a few threads on the issue. Anything electrical is always frustrating to me
LED headlights (I will try to disconnect my headlights and see if that makes a difference)
Hazard relay looks good/cleaned
I’m not sure what you mean by “clean hazard circuit” I have new taillights, new headlights, new turn signals, frame and body were cleansed and painted. i would hope it’s clean lol
Fuses are good but when I took everything apart to paint, there was a jumper wire on the fuse box. I dont remember in what configuration. I will remove the fuses which all look good and clean the connections.
Unfortunately I dont remember if they worked when I bought it, before the complete resto…
I should be able to test if there is a power coming out of the relay when the blinker is engaged correct? If not, then perhaps it’s bad?
I'd check the grounds after painting stuff.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Look for the thread on pulling the hazard module out and disassembling it to clean it up. The blinkers run through the hazards.
I also cleaned up the contacts on my stalk switch. Be careful as there two tiny springs in there. I did that sitting in the driver seat with a tray in my lap.
Really cleaning/sanding the fuse block is a must, both sides.
Have you checked your grounds in the blinkers themselves? That’s usually the spot. If you just painted you probably aren’t getting a ground.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
On mine - similar lack of functionality = only hazzards - for me cleaning contacts/using deoxit solved my issues - the bulb contacts to be more specific.
My plan for spring(ish) is to work electrical - fuse block etc. all will get TLC per coolerman's instructions.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Yeah, I had it “fixed” and then it went back to left blinker functional, right blinker single blink with no dash blinky. I’m wondering if it’s something in the column that is worn, I’ve been through it a few times but the horn would randomly not work this morning.
I’m about to dive in again.
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- #297
I’m going to play with the blinkers this weekend. I’ve been putting off adjusting my valves for well since I bought it and adjusted them improperly 3 years ago.
Idk why it seems so confusing. I feel like a lot of videos show it being done without explaining what you’re doing to set the cylinder up for adjusting the valves.
This post really helped!
Plus having my daughter watch the cylinder and check the rocker arms as I rotated the crank.
Went super smoothly
Idk why it seems so confusing. I feel like a lot of videos show it being done without explaining what you’re doing to set the cylinder up for adjusting the valves.
This post really helped!
Plus having my daughter watch the cylinder and check the rocker arms as I rotated the crank.
Went super smoothly
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- #298
Turn signals again, some more, ongoing etc
Well
thought I would go through all of my fuses begin troubleshooting the turn signal and fuse box
Super weird 2/3 of the fuse box had no power so I started checking what worked on the dash because I hadn’t yet and my wiper motor was apparently connected to my ignition neat way to start your vehicle so once I corrected that I turned signal came on, but it sticks on
If I disconnect the front to marker lights, the rear blinkers work perfectly the minute I connect the front marker lights the turn signal comes on and stays on
From what I’ve read, it’s a grounding issue so I ran a wire from the negative post on my battery to the mounting bolt on the marker light and it still does not solve the issue of the turn signal turning on then staying on solid, basically one flag then stuck
Well
thought I would go through all of my fuses begin troubleshooting the turn signal and fuse boxSuper weird 2/3 of the fuse box had no power so I started checking what worked on the dash because I hadn’t yet and my wiper motor was apparently connected to my ignition neat way to start your vehicle so once I corrected that I turned signal came on, but it sticks on
If I disconnect the front to marker lights, the rear blinkers work perfectly the minute I connect the front marker lights the turn signal comes on and stays on
From what I’ve read, it’s a grounding issue so I ran a wire from the negative post on my battery to the mounting bolt on the marker light and it still does not solve the issue of the turn signal turning on then staying on solid, basically one flag then stuck
There are connection on the back of the fuse box too, that can get corroded. Disconnect the battery ground. Clean the fuse spring clips with like a 30 cal bore brush. Test the fuses, they can look good but actually be bad. Some circuits are hot only when the key is on. Clean the base of your bulbs and the socket they plug into. Use Q-tip with di-electric grease to lightly swap the contacts.
If the bulb is bad blinkers will not flash. To low a wattage will do that too (LED), too much in your case will let them blink with the front disconnected.
If the bulb is bad blinkers will not flash. To low a wattage will do that too (LED), too much in your case will let them blink with the front disconnected.
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- #300