Can I put together a 3FE when I don't know what I'm doing? Lets find out...

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
Hi everyone. I am rebuilding a 3FE for my FJ40 build. The motor comes out of a 1992 FJ80, so am posting this thread here where the experts are. I have swapped engines before several years ago when I put a 3FE into my first FJ40, but it was already rebuilt by somebody else. This is the first time I have torn down and rebuilt an engine. So every aspect is a learning experience for me. I have many questions and want to be as careful as possible, so probably won't bolt anything up without 5 different people confirming I am doing it correctly :). I have an FSM that says it is for a 3FE out of an FJ62. Title page says 1988, but publish date is 1993. So far I think it is serving well, but if there is a better FSM to use for the 1992 version of the 3FE, I would like to know that. I haven't been able to find one.

I want to build it in a desmogged state. So maybe a bit more complex given I am building a desmogged 3FE for an FJ40. However this thread I wanted to focus on the engine build specifically.

I've been reading up as much as possible, such as the "How not to rebuild a 2F" thread to get general rebuild tips and various desmogging threads. But I'm finding that I wanted to have my own place to ask questions from this great community. When I installed the 3FE several years ago into my first 40, I couldn't have done it without all the help.

I tore everything down several months back, carefully labeling and taking pictures. I am finding I didn't label quite well enough...more on that later. I took everything to an engine machine shop recommended from a friend and he magnafluxed, turned, and machined parts. I was quite pleased with the work, but also admittedly wouldn't know if anything was done poorly.

The good news is that the machine shop did much of the hard work for me. What I received back from them was an assembled short block (crankshaft, camshaft, timing gears installed) and an assembled head (valves, springs installed). I provided OEM parts where possible and he supplied/ordered new pistons, etc. for the rebuild.

He still has my oil pump and intake and my rocker assembly, which he is cleaning. I expect those back any day.

So right now, I have the short block on the stand. Oil pan has to wait until I get the oil pump back and installed. As I am concerned about the nice smooth machined surfaces rusting, I decided to get the head installed as soon as possible. So started there. Next post will be about that. Thanks in advance.
 

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
Yesterday, I cleaned each gasket surface with some laquer thinner and a lint free rag, set in two new dowel pins, then set the head gasket in and put the head on.

3CCA0382-C057-4232-8C95-537CB996C200.jpeg
DEB6CD2E-EF1D-49A9-B2C8-73E466CB4D39.jpeg
1F618C32-E8A4-41DC-8866-2F8F809DD19D.jpeg
1B7E2D6E-4DE5-42B8-AEB6-B0CD6D876D04.jpeg


Now is where the poor labeling came back to bite me. I wanted to put all the head bolts in the exact same place as I pulled them. But I couldn’t figure out my labeling system. I numbered each one, but couldn’t remember how I did so (in line order or sequence order). Luckily I had pictures as well. After about two hours of puzzle solving, my son and I sorted it out. I know where all bolts for both the head and rocker go.

9D3FA867-1997-479E-8277-F88641DD4245.jpeg


However I can’t tighten it down at this point since I realized I don’t have the hook that goes under the two longer headbolts at the front of the engine. It’s at the plating shop until next week. *Edit: I just realized while looking at disassembly photos that the hook and bracket are two separate pieces. So I think I can tighten it now. See, this is why I need help.

So if there are any tips or tricks or gotchas at this point to look for, let me know.
 
Last edited:

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
I didn’t. I didn’t know about that until recently. It is a question I had if I should try to do it myself or not.

Or maybe I could ask him, and take the head back to him...
 

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
Just talked to him. He is going to fix it, so I’ll take the head back. Even looking at the plug now, it seems sketchy. So this is a good thing.

0AF50AD9-52E6-4873-B3CF-F4DEF699C9F9.jpeg
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
8,980
Location
New Jersey
 
 
does that just get tapped for a pipe plug or some other kind of plug and get sealed with thread lok or fipg instead of using the galley plug from toyota
There are several different methods that folks have used over the years, but if the head is off then I would drill out the OE press fit plug, tap the hole, and run an appropriate size set screw in there with some thread sealant. Several folks have run in 2 set screws to lock it in place.
 

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
While I am waiting on the head, I’d like to install the the timing cover and gasket and crankshaft pulley.

I recently picked up a powder coat gun and did my first part...the timing cover. Came out great. Anything to know about installing the seal? Just like any other seal?

From what I’ve read, put the timing cover and gasket on finger tight with loctite 242 on the bolts, then the pulley, then torque. What is the best sealant to use on the gasket, if any?

anything else I should be aware of with regards to the timing cover?


D64839AE-21ED-43E7-90D1-485DB54FA399.jpeg
87BBBB90-C4D9-492B-8902-484791DC1DF6.jpeg
 

Godwin

Resident Herpetologist
SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
4,986
Location
Alabama
 
 
 
While I am waiting on the head, I’d like to install the the timing cover and gasket and crankshaft pulley.

I recently picked up a powder coat gun and did my first part...the timing cover. Came out great. Anything to know about installing the seal? Just like any other seal?

From what I’ve read, put the timing cover and gasket on finger tight with loctite 242 on the bolts, then the pulley, then torque. What is the best sealant to use on the gasket, if any?

anything else I should be aware of with regards to the timing cover?


View attachment 2290371View attachment 2290372
Oil squirter on the timing plate. Did you pull it out or leave it in when the engine was disassembled? If left in place, then good. If removed and screwed back in then check to make sure it was not screwed in too deep. If too deep it can slightly push the timing plate from the block leading to an oil leak.

Place the timing cover on with the bolts loose, then install the pulley to position the cover, then tighten down the bolts. I think you said that, so just reiterating.
 

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
Thanks. I didn't remove the oil squirter, but don't know if the shop did. How would I know if it is too deep?
 

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
ok, so new question I was thinking about before I assemble this any further. My build is going slow and I haven't done the transmission and tcase yet, or body work, wiring, etc. So it will probably be quite a while (probably at least a year) before I will actually be able to start the engine and use it.

I thought I would be much further along when I got the engine back (was at the machine shop for several months). So didn't expect to really be in this situation. Anyway, my initial thought was it would be best to put it together, then store it that way. So that is the path I started on, but would it be better to store all the parts separately and assemble when its closer to being ready to be used? I am in Seattle area, so somewhat humid climate.
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,193
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
ok, so new question I was thinking about before I assemble this any further. My build is going slow and I haven't done the transmission and tcase yet, or body work, wiring, etc. So it will probably be quite a while (probably at least a year) before I will actually be able to start the engine and use it.

I thought I would be much further along when I got the engine back (was at the machine shop for several months). So didn't expect to really be in this situation. Anyway, my initial thought was it would be best to put it together, then store it that way. So that is the path I started on, but would it be better to store all the parts separately and assemble when its closer to being ready to be used? I am in Seattle area, so somewhat humid climate.
Definitely assemble it completely.

Then pour about a cup of engine oil into each cylinder and SLOWLY rotate the engine. (without plugs in it) Then install the plugs and don't rotate it again.

Make sure you use plenty of assembly lube (actual term) on the crankshaft bearings and the rod bearings.

Before you install the oil pan, spray engine oil all over inside it. Maybe even install the oil pan WITHOUT the gasket so you can just pop it off when it comes time, check it, lube it and good to go. Bolt the pan on for storage and cover all in a tarp in a climate controlled environment. If in a shop or barn that is not AC, then leave off the tarp as it will tend to hold moisture as will force it through dewpoint twice a day. Oil the head the same way after it's installed, then just bolt on the VC without the gasket so it can be checked before it's installed.
 

caboulto

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
659
Location
Issaquah, WA
 
 
Definitely assemble it completely.

Then pour about a cup of engine oil into each cylinder and SLOWLY rotate the engine. (without plugs in it) Then install the plugs and don't rotate it again.

Make sure you use plenty of assembly lube (actual term) on the crankshaft bearings and the rod bearings.

Before you install the oil pan, spray engine oil all over inside it. Maybe even install the oil pan WITHOUT the gasket so you can just pop it off when it comes time, check it, lube it and good to go. Bolt the pan on for storage and cover all in a tarp in a climate controlled environment. If in a shop or barn that is not AC, then leave off the tarp as it will tend to hold moisture as will force it through dewpoint twice a day. Oil the head the same way after it's installed, then just bolt on the VC without the gasket so it can be checked before it's installed.

Thanks. Just so I understand, once assembled I should put engine oil into the cylinders...do I do that in the spark plug holes?

Then when you say oil the head the same way, you mean coat oil all throughout the head, on the rocker assembly, etc?
 

Tachycardic

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
312
Location
Nevada
ok, so new question I was thinking about before I assemble this any further. My build is going slow and I haven't done the transmission and tcase yet, or body work, wiring, etc. So it will probably be quite a while (probably at least a year) before I will actually be able to start the engine and use it.

I thought I would be much further along when I got the engine back (was at the machine shop for several months). So didn't expect to really be in this situation. Anyway, my initial thought was it would be best to put it together, then store it that way. So that is the path I started on, but would it be better to store all the parts separately and assemble when its closer to being ready to be used? I am in Seattle area, so somewhat humid climate.
I don't understand why you can't work 24 hours daily. Sleep is for the dead and we need more pics!
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,536
Location
Elko, NV
 
What happened? Any way/signs you could have prevented it?


Fun thread! Following along.
PO noticed a bunch of smoke and “rusty noises” and pulled over. I bought it figuring that was what had happened. Started it up and confirmed oil pumping out of head. Had to drop trailer, jump 80 while oil pumping everywhere, hook back up trailer, ran it onto trailer and killed it as fast as I could. Not sure if that was the final blow or if the damage was already done but I suspect it was already done it was just a matter of time. Tapped head and inserted plug. Drove it maybe 5 miles and developed rod knock. Pulled it down to some hammered flat bearings. Inserted 3FE into truck bed and watched Pacific Steel suck it out with a magnet and dump it in a scrap pile. :rolleyes:
Insert cummins swap*

Prevent? Tap the head and loctite a set screw in place.

While we’re on the subject of 3FE shortcomings, do some research into the nylon timing gear...
 
Top Bottom