Build 76 Fj40 Face Lift

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

pngunme said:
While you're planning your power steering, try one of THESE - kind of a psuedo power steering - it will make life much easier - Disclaimer: assuming it's legal in your state... I don't know of any state that has a law against them, but do your own due diligence.

I use mine, with power steering and can steer around most anything in my path... I used one years (and years) ago, when I was 12 and working on an Arkansas farm, on a 2-ton 52 Chevy stake bed truck (no PS) and a John Deere tractor. At about 80 or less lbs, I couldn't have driven either otherwise.
Click to expand...

JohnnyC said:
Want to get a period correct old school Toyota Forklift spinner someday
Click to expand...

^^^Same story...Used them when I was a tad pole huffing and grunting on various forms of "manual automotive contrivances". I usually have the "modulator" mounted up on the left side of the wheel. When I started the face lift procedure I was dismantling the interior. Decided, I should keep it, so i just re-mounted it on the wheel as a talisman to the "Toyota God's", never hurts, they are finicky spirits indeed. As a matter of fact I am certain my ex-wife moonlights as a lesser imp or demon in Toyota Hell...But, back to the "tech"...When I am backing my John Boat or ATV trailer it takes maneuvering my 76 at low speeds from agonizing to just arduous. Can't remember who on the thread also commented it was handy if you were using the hand throttle. Like JohnnyC, I ran a fork lift fer' a spell working my way through school. The spinner was handier than a second thumb!! Soooooo, I reckon I said all that to say this: "Yep, works for me"......:bounce:
 
they are very handy 'on road' but do have drawbacks to 'on trail' ... there were plenty of times i had the wheel ripped from me when i wasnt running PS... but i cant recall much of any once i went to ps ... these days i am mainly back roads and road use, IF i am so inclined to go to a hard trail.... most spinners come off with a phillips screw :)
 
"Plumbing" is a 1/4:banana: job (banana bite) with the engine exposed. Not real "sexy", but important nonetheless. At any rate, 99% of my plumbing hardware has arrived. All except the set of clamps for the thermostat housing to water pump...Either I ordered the wrong size or they sent me the wrong size..Probably an "operator head space and timing" issue. I have used and prefer the stainless shouldered clamps over the garden variety worm gear clamps. Although I do keep a couple in the "Kit bag". . Using Napa hoses. Decent price and IMHO they (Napa) have pretty decent products, a good return policy, and a handy machine shop. Should have the rad support and shroud back on the around the 1st of May. That will allow me to mount the radiator and finish up the plumbing. I have a couple "Gano" filters (thanks Sarge) ordered. Looking forward to firing it up after all this down time. Any recommendations on start up procedures, other than prime the lubrication system??


photo(111).webp
photo(110).webp
 
Last edited:
TLC Bling..Just using those words in the same sentence can spark a significant emotional response. Well, I bought some..In this case it's "factory bling". I found a set of OEM Toyota fog lamps/lights. Bought them from Griffith Motors out in Oregon (no affiliation). I've been watching for a set for quite some time. This set was about %50 less from the best price I've found so far. I don't have the mounts, but I do have a set of knock-off mounts from a set of lamps I bought a few years ago (came out of Dubai as I recall). I'll clean them up, shoot a coat of paint and use them to mount the lamps .

May only get an hour or two this weekend to devote to the "face-lift"....Spring is a busy time around the house/Camp.

photo(114).webp


photo(115).webp


photo(116).webp


photo(112).webp
 
Last edited:
I found some of the clamps 51-54mm from an Ebay vendor out of Elkhart Indiana. Some of the smaller clamps were from a Ebay vendor out of Los Angeles. I just searched "Stainless steel T-bolt clamp". The local options here in my little corner of WV were primarily bulk options. I did not need 500 22-26mm clamps. So the online route was easier for me. Cheap enough to pick-up just what I needed with a spare or two. In the past I have sourced some of these same style clamps out of the peoples republic...But the slow boat from China was frustrating because you could not depend on a quick delivery if you were in a hurry (read within 2 weeks). I don't know what it's like out your way, but here its hard to find things that aren't "mainstream"....
 
When you hear the banjo's you need to paddle faster! :hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly:

Initial indications are good....I am headed over to the "lab" in the AM...I'll shoot you some pics as soon as I do the 1st test scrape...I want to make sure I document everything digitally.

It's alive...It's alive......IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
 


So there I was at a gas station in Paw Paw..............
 
rkymtnflyfisher said:
So there I was at a gas station in Paw Paw..............
Click to expand...

Apropos sir, that added just the right splash of color to this thread!:hillbilly:

Paw Paw, I have not been over to Morgan Co for awhile. God's own side yard for sure.
I suppose if you and I ever get these relics up and operational we may have to take a "mosey" on down around that neck of the woods. Maybe you can limber up that trout fishing arm of yours.

Now, I know you are sing'en the bed liner blues too, and since were neighbors, hell practically cousins, I can sell you a combo pack of "Uncle Chunga's magic elixir". It's a patent pending "Dot 3" bed liner remover and a jug of "Preston Co branch water". All for a notional fee that I will devote solely to the study of the WV red hackled wood tick . The bed liner remover is for yer' tub, the branch water is good for medicinal purposes ;). It's good for snake bites, poison ivy, poison oak, certain malarial strains, athletes foot, jock itch, the mange, hypothermia, baldness, hair balls, parts cleaning and the occasional bout of marital discord......Hop on in while ya give it a think:hmm:.
 
Last edited:
Weber Sarge said:
I'm sure they have me on some sort of list somewhere for bad juju....
Click to expand...

Oh, I am quite certain I am getting the "rubber glove" greeting at some point in the future too. :meh:
 
When I first made the decision to start peeling back the bed liner on ole' "Zig", I started on the drivers side floor board. Previously, I had replaced the clutch MC due to a pesky and persistent leak. What I had not noticed due to the black bed liner was some of the fluid had leaked down into the floor board. As I began to remove the old liner the areas that were saturated with the brake fluid peeled back like "wet lettuce":hmm:. Areas not saturated held on like a doberman on a dog bone....You can see where this is going....Pics below are a before and after of a "controlled test". I brushed on a medium layer of Dot 3 and waited a week. True to my earlier observation the old bed liner peeled back with ease....What had taken considerable time before now scraped up in less than a minute...I'll post more of the observations on the next post....More to follow!
photo(119).webp


photo(117).webp


photo(118).webp


photo(120).webp
 
I am not sure the brand of bed liner that is on my TLC. But I believe there were factors that contributed greatly to this "Unconventional application" working for me:

Things I am certain of:
1. My liner was a brushed on application.
2. It was a thin layer, probably 1 coat.
3. Initial prep of the tub before application was so-so at best.
4. Where the fluid was able to penetrate the greatest "lift" occurred.

The following area (see below) had one application of fluid and allowed to sit for approx 4 hours. You can see where the liner came off in very large pieces. My weapon of choice is a 12" gasket scrapper that I purchased at Napa for a few bucks.

I am not suggesting this is a technique that will work on every application. Some bed liners are "tuffer" than others. Some applications of liner have a better prep than my example.

Also, cleaned the area profusely after liner removal and it will receive a thorough high power wash after all bed liner is removed.

Not recommending you run out and try this unless your bed liner criteria is similar to my example......But, in my case it took "hours" of grunt work off my liner removal.....

I don't suppose I'll have to wait long for the opinions..........



photo(122).webp
 
I purchased a set of new fog lamps without the OEM brackets. So, I re-purposed a set of "after market" fog lamp brackets I had.....Pics are pre-removal.

Treated and waiting a shot of black satin.



photo(125).webp


photo(124).webp


photo(126).webp
 
The postman was good to me: Received this awhile back and forgot to comment. Application later in April or 1st of May. Thanks to fellow Mud member "Shipmag".

Group Buy: FJ40/55 Transmission ByPass Hose



photo(127).webp


photo(129).webp


photo(128).webp
 
Can one of you TLC savants tell me if the holes underneath the gas tank on my 76 came with factory plugs. I am assuming they would plug from under the chassis?...Removed for water crossing ops? Oh, and if you are a card carrying member of the SPCA, I humanely removed the field mice that had wintered under my petrol tank..They are now contently living on a "farm" in southern Ohio...

photo-101-jpg.1064201
 
My '76 has those same holes and no plugs as well. They do help for letting water out of the cab though. Years ago I was showing off and got stuck in a deep mud hole with water up to the bottom of the seats. I had no winch back then. Took a CJ and a Toy pickup strapped together to pull me out. Probably never do that again, rusted all my tools and a pistol that were stashed under the seat. I take the wimpy bypasses now. Deep mud is not worth the cleanup. Live and learn. :cool:
 
cruiserkev said:
My '76 has those same holes and no plugs as well.
Click to expand...

Kev- I may be oversimplifying something ridiculously glaring, but here goes. I get the drain hole concept, but as I am sure you have seen on these TLC's, rust is not your/our friend. Water under my gas tank is a 1st cousin to rust....My 76 is 125 miles away at the moment and I cant go out and check but, If those drain holes are accessible from underneath I think I'll "plug em" until such time as I have need to cross a a "crick or two"...Looks like most of my rust issues in the front part of the cab occurred as a result of H2O entering from beneath the Chassis. TLC reverse osmosis???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom