Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special (3 Viewers)

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If you decide to do the differential yourself, I have some tools you can borrow (if it happens to be the one tool you DON'T own), let me know. I have done a couple diff's many years ago, but now I will pay someone else to do them because they are such a PITA.

Just my opinion.......
 
Oops.... almost forgot that I finished the evening with running the parts washer to clean out the front differential and the hubs. Without the greasy slop, the front axle has way too much play!!!! Clickety clack clack, clickety clack clack..... And the front hubs have more damage than I’ve ever seen!!!! I know this is not where the bearing rides, but seems like an amazing amount of damage. Will have to see if the 60 series hubs are the same
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If you decide to do the differential yourself, I have some tools you can borrow (if it happens to be the one tool you DON'T own), let me know. I have done a couple diff's many years ago, but now I will pay someone else to do them because they are such a PITA.

Just my opinion.......

Thank you for the offer for help, I sent a picture and video to Jess and he thinks it’s shot....

So the question is what 8 inch differential can I find in the US that will work on this ?
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So back to the passenger side knuckle, after cleaning up it is pretty clear there are no threads left at the top. I could put studs in and weld them, but I’m leaning to just buying a new knuckle
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Went down to the parts barn this morning, and found an oil cooler for 1FZ. This really is an amazing engine, with a built-in oil cooler in the side the block.
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Thank you for the offer for help, I sent a picture and video to Jess and he thinks it’s shot....

So the question is what 8 inch differential can I find in the US that will work on this ?View attachment 2006491

Dana 60 should be easy to round up parts. Check the number of splines on the axle shafts (side gears). Unless you need the actual differential housing, you get get a lot of parts for the D60. My son;s 1970 GMC K2500 has a Dana 60 in it and we went with a Detroit Locker and 4.11:1 gears in it. In ours, the side gears had been shattered, the center pin had been welded to the carrier, and the R&P were toast. So we chose to go all new guts, making it easy to go to Detroit.

We had a spare D60 axle housing that we chucked, but I'm not sure what we did with the carrier. I'll have to ask him later.
 
Wow...this is the gift that keeps on giving. I'll give you credit for tackling this.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to find an 80 series and pull the engine from that (or a 2UZ :cool:) rather than messing with this at all. I guess it will all depend on compression numbers and that.
 
Why buy new knuckles when used ones are easy enough to find ?

Joe, Can you confirm that 60 series knuckles will work, given the angle difference I was seeing?

Or are you saying that you have some 70 series knuckles used?
 
Wow...this is the gift that keeps on giving. I'll give you credit for tackling this.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to find an 80 series and pull the engine from that (or a 2UZ :cool:) rather than messing with this at all. I guess it will all depend on compression numbers and that.

At this point, I am still in discovery mode..... trying to determine if we need to pull the motor or not. Will replace the oil cooler and try to determine if we have a blown head gasket or not.

You do have a good point.... maybe I should do compression numbers first.... I do have a spare 1fz, however it is fuel injected with a big computer that I would have to integrate into this system. Hoping to not do that.
 
Dana 60 should be easy to round up parts. Check the number of splines on the axle shafts (side gears). Unless you need the actual differential housing, you get get a lot of parts for the D60. My son;s 1970 GMC K2500 has a Dana 60 in it and we went with a Detroit Locker and 4.11:1 gears in it. In ours, the side gears had been shattered, the center pin had been welded to the carrier, and the R&P were toast. So we chose to go all new guts, making it easy to go to Detroit.

We had a spare D60 axle housing that we chucked, but I'm not sure what we did with the carrier. I'll have to ask him later.

Sorry for any confusion, the rear DANA looks fine. The front is the issue -- the one without any oil. Sounds like it is the same as an 80 series front diff, so I may have one in the barn. If not, will have to hit up @kc_chevota to get his unlocked front axle out.

Honestly, I am thinking about putting a rear 80 series locked axle in the rear. This gives me disc brakes and working e brake parts and will be locked. This truck tires needed spacers, so they might be similar widths.
 
Question on the radiator. What are the options in the US? I found a two core aluminum for $330 on ebay.

I know this engine in the 80 series needs a good running system to not overheat, so what do others do?


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Question on the radiator. What are the options in the US? I found a two core aluminum for $330 on ebay.

I know this engine in the 80 series needs a good running system to not overheat, so what do others do?


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I definitely would do a compression check right away to see whats going on with that before I put too much time into it.

I was going to go that way for an Ebay China radiator, but my OEM was able to be fixed. I have heard mixed reports on these radiators, manning with mounts breaking off etc.

I know @Gun Runner 5 has an option with Odd Iron Offroad for an aluminum one that fits. I believe there should be a few different models that will fit this based on the 70 series OEM that could work, if you want to pay OEM costs or ship from out of country like 4wd parts Australia or the like.
 
Joe, Can you confirm that 60 series knuckles will work, given the angle difference I was seeing?

Or are you saying that you have some 70 series knuckles used?

Of course I have some used 7x knuckles😉
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Might have some already separated from the axle housing also
 
Question on the radiator. What are the options in the US? I found a two core aluminum for $330 on ebay.

I know this engine in the 80 series needs a good running system to not overheat, so what do others do?


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I bought a $215 eBay special a few weeks ago. It won't work with my 80 series frame but they won't take it back. If you want to go the aluminum route let me know. I will take a loss getting rid of the one I have.
 
Cool project!

Looks like maybe a fluid heat riser under the intake manifold? Wonder if it's OEM? Looks so.

Was the oil leak hidden behind the motor mount? Was hard for me to tell by the photos.

Good luck! Will keep on watching your progress!
 
Cool project!

Looks like maybe a fluid heat riser under the intake manifold? Wonder if it's OEM? Looks so.

Was the oil leak hidden behind the motor mount? Was hard for me to tell by the photos.

Good luck! Will keep on watching your progress!


Yes, that is the OEM location for an oil cooler on a 1fz. pictures on post 65 above.
 
Well, it seems you got a classic case of Venezuelan craftmanship.

With the huge flow of old Toyotas being exported for sale in the states, and profit margins being so high, I suppose these cases will be more and more common as more and more people try to sell these vehicles in the state claiming restorations that don't even qualify as slight facelifts.

Kudos for taking on the project, I'm sure you'll be able to make it road worthy soon enough!

Good luck,
 
Pulled the cooler. Appears to have been cracked for some time.
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Oil should not be in this galley....
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