- Thread starter
- #181
I am still debating gauges. I can’t make up my mind.Digital Apple based I assume
Exciting seeing this come together
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I am still debating gauges. I can’t make up my mind.Digital Apple based I assume
Exciting seeing this come together
Yes i have part timed my transfer case and run manual hubs.Good to know! I snagged a elocked, axled, donor 80 for a reason, glad they'll hold up.
Thanks Morgan!
You're running part-time hubs, right?
it may look a bit like Night Rider but that's okay with me.
Funny a friend and I were talking the other day about how bad it is to watch a rerun now. I loved it as a kid.
I started to legitimize my measuring of how the cab needs to sit. The way I have it sitting now is 1.5" lower than it should. The 75 rear cab mount sits 1" above frame rail as the 80 sits .5" below. This is measuring from the flat part under the cup. Today I will raise up the body and see how the hood fits. Thing is getting big fast. Right now frame hight is almost 3" taller than the 80 but have plenty of weight still to add on.
View attachment 1861838
View attachment 1861839
Also noticed a weird measurement in the factory service manual for the 75 frame. It shows 68.562 from the rear cab mount (E) to the front fender mount (A) which isn't even close as you can see in the photo.
View attachment 1861847
View attachment 1861840
Could be. I noticed the numbers differ among what manual I look at. Using two manuals I have found correct numbers but it’s weird that they vary.Do you think the 6 and 8 are switched by accident where reading should be 86?
Don't know yet. I have a few ideas.How are you going to label the gauges? Seems a bit of information overload when you first look at them.
I made in a word doc because I don't have any real CAD programs available to me. I won't be using it due to size of my LED lights. As for my layout I am going with temps on the left and pressures on the right. Everyday it changes and I have months to go before it is drivable.Cool.
Where did you get the diff lock decal?
Your gauge arrangement kind of makes sense. I think I'd look at keeping boost, and EGT together as they are interrelated. They are something I would look at together
Once I make sure my measurement are correct I may add a few more things like parking brake and a warning light for gauges.
Each gauge has a small warning light on it that can have a low and high setting. They also have output for buzzer. Auber sells a warning light/buzzer but it would need a off switch added because it sounds annoying. But I guess that’s the point to get your attention.By warning light, do you mean a light that would go on at a set point on the gauge? I think that's a good idea - particularly with all the gauges being the same. Personally, I like analog gauges because your eye tends to notice a needle in a different position but you have to think about the numbers you're seeing. I've seen digital gauges where you can have a setpoint where it triggers a warning light.