Build 74 FJ40 Resto-mod build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Skim coat of filler....just like ALL the top shops do :cool:
I saw a product recently that was a high build primer that went on purple (I think) and turned color as it was sanded to show low spots, basically a guide coat. Was wondering if this was the same type of product.

Your 40 will be beautiful, thanks for taking us along on the ride!
 
And before the trolls and naysayers even start, anyone going to argue TLC4x4 isn't a "top shop"?

IMG_2969.webp
 
Nothing wrong with filler- only wrong to cover or build with. This is going to be a great looking rig, what color?
She's going back to the original Rustic Green
 
So this is getting built at tlc and proffitts? Im confused.
Just Proffitt's...I posted the photo of TLC4x4's IG to show another top end shop using a skim coat of filler to ensure a smooth paint finish. Seen too many builds/thread starters get trashed over something the keyboard warriors disapprove of, and thought I'd stop that one before anyone got a chance.
 
Last edited:
Finally got my new/corrected front axle (still running TLC 9.5 locked diff, custom inners, and FJ80 knuckles/outers) - thanks Brian @ Front Range/Diamond!!! This should allow the guys to fab my linked front suspension, and get the frame/axles powdercoated. :bounce:

77964228617__2CC508D0-5C4D-4A3B-82D5-7CDB68EDF155.webp
 
Finally got my new/corrected front axle (still running TLC 9.5 locked diff, custom inners, and FJ80 knuckles/outers) - thanks Brian @ Front Range/Diamond!!! This should allow the guys to fab my linked front suspension, and get the frame/axles powdercoated. :bounce:

View attachment 3992120
A thing of beauty. What are the differences between this new housing and the original one that was under the build? Looks like it is wider?
 
A thing of beauty. What are the differences between this new housing and the original one that was under the build? Looks like it is wider?
Thank you!

Both are FJ60 width. On the first one, the builder spec'd the diff offset incorrectly, so I'd need a "bluetooth" front driveshaft, or it would hit the diff. One of the first things Jeremiah noticed when he got the truck and evaluated what needed to be re-done to meet "PRLC standards." :rolleyes:
 
Remind me of tire size?
35's...thought about 37's, but destroyed my shoulder not long after I started the build and quickly realized I'd struggle with the spare.
 
What is the reasoning behind leafs in the rear and link up front(not criticizing just curious as I’m considering linking my next build).
The axles are 60 series wide for stance/stability, but front is using 80 series knuckles/birfs/steering arms for strength. Ran into issues with the arms and leafs (see post 68 - Builds - 74 FJ40 Resto-mod build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/74-fj40-resto-mod-build.1212173/post-14367077), and this was a suggestion. Added bonus is better on road handling.
 
The axles are 60 series wide for stance/stability, but front is using 80 series knuckles/birfs/steering arms for strength. Ran into issues with the arms and leafs (see post 68 - Builds - 74 FJ40 Resto-mod build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/74-fj40-resto-mod-build.1212173/post-14367077), and this was a suggestion. Added bonus is better on road handling.
Our ‘23 Tacoma has rear leafs and drums for that matter. I’ll be looking for more road manners with capable offroad.
 
Our ‘23 Tacoma has rear leafs and drums for that matter. I’ll be looking for more road manners with capable offroad.
This was Jeremiah's suggestion (based on the axles/steering arms/etc - remember, he's finishing a partial build) to maintain road manners and yet provide more than capable wheeling abilities (my front door is about 20-30 minutes from the West trailhead for the Rubicon, depending on traffic). I figure I built 2 FJ40's (iteratively - with much trial and error)...and his shop has put out who knows how many, which is why I follow the experts advice/guidance/suggestions with this one.

As to why not link the rear too? Shop recommends stretching the body/frame to make the rear angles work (or use a competition cut to shove the axles back far enough), and I didn't want to go down that path. Though I'm looking pretty hard at a 60 series body on a shortened 80 frame for my next DD.
 
Last edited:
This was Jeremiah's suggestion to maintain road manners and yet provide more than capable wheeling abilities (my front door is about 20-30 minutes from the West trailhead for the Rubicon, depending on traffic). I figure I built 2 FJ40's (iteratively - with much trial and error)...and his shop has put out who knows how many, which is why I follow the experts advice/guidance/suggestions with this one.

As to why not link the rear too? Shop recommends stretching the body/frame to make the rear angles work (or use a competition cut to shove the axles back far enough), and I didn't want to go down that path. Though I'm looking pretty hard at a 60 series body on a shortened 80 frame for my next DD.
Listening to those with experience saves alot of $$, time and frustration.
 
And now the freshly epoxy primered tub heads back to the Fab Shop (ie "Jail" as the Body Shop guys call it) for fitting the shock towers and determining if OEM or tube fenders will work/look better, before paint.
IMG_3406.webp

78033709844__4CF4B068-88C7-4E86-91B1-D5096D5A2E89.webp
 
Jeremiah and his fab crew identified another interesting problem - the high steering arms provided by Front Range/Diamond Axles mount the tie rod so high, it would hit the frame when flexing the suspension. Solution: set the joint up in double shear.

IMG_3660.webp

78102712040__CC9A386C-663B-409F-AC83-36C0D89E7104.webp


Also growing tired of waiting for the front accessory drive kit for my LS3 (back-ordered for months), so looking pretty hard at going with the Wegner kit from AZ Pro Performance.
 
Back
Top Bottom