- Thread starter
- #701
I've cut some 1/16 rubber gaskets before using the deep point blade (black). It worked very well.
Build 73 FJ40 Refresh
- Thread starter Engineer8000
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- Thread starter
- #702
going through my old photos, I don't think the room light gasket is that simple.
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- Apr 21, 2005
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Two wire room light? I do not remember any room light prior to ones with a switch have two wires. Even my 65 FJ45LP-B room light that has a switch only has one wire.
- Thread starter
- #704
I need to dig mine out and look at it. I think one wire goes to the switch and the other is grounded at the light
- Thread starter
- #705
This is what I have
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2005
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- 115
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- 26,059
I check see mine could be that way. I added a second one in my 68. My 70 I just handle a few year ago when I replaced the sides to top packing.
- Thread starter
- #707
PSA
I have seen these license plate lights listed for sale for crazy money. 81270-60020, available at your friendly dealership $17.85.
I have seen these license plate lights listed for sale for crazy money. 81270-60020, available at your friendly dealership $17.85.
Earlier in your build you mentioned building your PTO driveshaft. Did you build a new one from online parts? If so do you care giving a run down on what you did?
- Thread starter
- #709
I used the old u joint and spline ends and purchased a length of steel tube from online metals and cut it to length. I heated the tube with the torch and put the end fittings in the freezer, then slid the end fittings inside the tube and welded all around. They are a tight fit. I did not do any design calculations for this; use at your own risk.
edit:
Simplified back of envelop,
J = 0.0559 in4, Zp = J/r = 0.11183 in3, ty =.577 x 60000 = 34620, Max Torque = ty x Zp =322 lb-ft for a 1" .095 wall A513 type 5 DOM tube (60ksi)
Say the rope force is 5000 lb at 8 inches radius, the drum torque required is 3333 lb-ft. I have seen pto winch ratings 3000-4000 lbs.
The worm wheel has a 33 tooth count so torque ratio is 33:1, input shaft torque required is 3333/33 = about 100 lb-ft.
Depending on the roll pin installed, this seems to be plenty, even considering the x2 safety factor for winch components.
Somebody check this, I have not done ME stuff for a while, no guarantee this is correct.
edit:
Simplified back of envelop,
J = 0.0559 in4, Zp = J/r = 0.11183 in3, ty =.577 x 60000 = 34620, Max Torque = ty x Zp =322 lb-ft for a 1" .095 wall A513 type 5 DOM tube (60ksi)
Say the rope force is 5000 lb at 8 inches radius, the drum torque required is 3333 lb-ft. I have seen pto winch ratings 3000-4000 lbs.
The worm wheel has a 33 tooth count so torque ratio is 33:1, input shaft torque required is 3333/33 = about 100 lb-ft.
Depending on the roll pin installed, this seems to be plenty, even considering the x2 safety factor for winch components.
Somebody check this, I have not done ME stuff for a while, no guarantee this is correct.
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- Thread starter
- #710
Some bad news today. I finally gave up on my jump seat upholstery guy; he had been stringing me along all this time and had not done a bit of work on these. I'm giving up on custom covers and going with the Cruiser Corps covers.
Secondly, test fitting the seat frames to the tub was not great either. The driver side is pretty good, the passenger side not so much. The body shop replaced the top of the wheel wells because they were pretty rough. It looks like the passenger side rear of the wheel well top is about 1/8 to 3/16 too low. The rear outside foot does not sit on the wheel well without a shim. This is an 1/8" shim and it seems to work.
I also see the rubber feet on the seat bottoms of the frames are in different locations between the two frames, they have not been modified as far as I can tell. Is this common?
Do I make a shim or grind the welds on the inside of the rear quarter and reposition where the top of the wheel well meets the rear quarter where it should be?
Secondly, test fitting the seat frames to the tub was not great either. The driver side is pretty good, the passenger side not so much. The body shop replaced the top of the wheel wells because they were pretty rough. It looks like the passenger side rear of the wheel well top is about 1/8 to 3/16 too low. The rear outside foot does not sit on the wheel well without a shim. This is an 1/8" shim and it seems to work.
I also see the rubber feet on the seat bottoms of the frames are in different locations between the two frames, they have not been modified as far as I can tell. Is this common?
Do I make a shim or grind the welds on the inside of the rear quarter and reposition where the top of the wheel well meets the rear quarter where it should be?
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- Thread starter
- #712
These use different covers, thanks for offering.
They appear symmetrical to me...
Original seats, redone with SOR products:
Original seats, redone with SOR products:
- Thread starter
- #714
Hard to tell from the pictures but the passenger side front rubber foot is 1/4" closer to the center of the truck. It doesn't fully sit on the wheel well. They all look to sit closer to the ends of the seats than yours. Mine must have been made Monday morning or Friday afternoon.
Driver side
Passenger side
Driver side
Passenger side
- Thread starter
- #716
Finished the grill screen and emblem. I was missing the two 75312-60020 retainers that are NLA from Toyota. I bought 4 of these (two for front emblem, two for rear 4WD emblem) from SOR. They are $12 ea, which seems high for a little bracket. I investigated other aftermarket grill emblem retainers and they were actually more $, so just went with these. I am going to strip and zinc plate the two for the rear emblem due to their harsh environment.
- Thread starter
- #717
Needed to make room in the garage for ongoing body work so moved the snap on cabinets to the electronics shop. I was going to refurb the cart before moving it out here but I have enough going on right now getting the body back together.
That box on the table is a harness for a 72 that the owner dropped off a couple years ago, waiting for test fit before wrapping up. His truck has a V8 conversion so need to figure out engine sensor wire length/routing. He is still waiting on his body guy, sounds familiar.
That box on the table is a harness for a 72 that the owner dropped off a couple years ago, waiting for test fit before wrapping up. His truck has a V8 conversion so need to figure out engine sensor wire length/routing. He is still waiting on his body guy, sounds familiar.
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- Thread starter
- #718
I got this bag a few years ago. I'm going to use it for the the tools I might need, not the $ OEM tools in the tool roll for show.
- Thread starter
- #719
I got the 4WD emblem retainers zinc plated. It's supposed to cool a little next week so hopefully will get my wheel well fixed and do some other needed welding.
- Thread starter
- #720
It's supposed to get back down to the 80s this week so hope to make some progress. I did take advantage of a cooler day recently to remove the DCM from the wife's 4runner. Also put the A-Track button in the FJ Cruiser, easiest upgrade ever.