72 FJ40 Chevota Build

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Steve,
Not much going on right now except body work. Learning about body work. It's trial and error right now. Found out that good quality sandpaper cuts 10 times faster and lasts 10 times longer than HFreight paper.
Also debating with my inner voice on how smooth the body work needs to be for spraying Raptor.
Priming bumpers and other metal parts. I'll get some pictures on the progress.
Marked and cut the opening for the fuel door.
John

IMG_4299.webp
 
I love this build! Great craftsmanship SMG.
 
Oh and re your oil fill level in the rear diff - I think as long as you're getting oil to all the components a stock diff does you'll be fine. Just remember, the SF axle has a run-in-oil wheel bearing setup, so to run them dry = walking axles, potentially at speed. Do you have a stock diff that you can use a guide?
 
Sorry not my build,

John deserves all the credit here.
I am such a moron. I meant Tokamak. It was 5am..
 
Oh and re your oil fill level in the rear diff - I think as long as you're getting oil to all the components a stock diff does you'll be fine. Just remember, the SF axle has a run-in-oil wheel bearing setup, so to run them dry = walking axles, potentially at speed. Do you have a stock diff that you can use a guide?

SF Axle ?? Mine is a stock Diff.
The oil level is at a minimum the same as stock so the axle bearings should be fine. I am assuming that the ring gear will sling the oil to the pinion bearing.
 
I am interested in the TC shift levers. Is this an off-the-shelf item or did you fab it up yourself?
 
I am interested in the TC shift levers. Is this an off-the-shelf item or did you fab it up yourself?
Saw something similar here on mud then fab'd it up myself.
 
SF Axle ?? Mine is a stock Diff.
The oil level is at a minimum the same as stock so the axle bearings should be fine. I am assuming that the ring gear will sling the oil to the pinion bearing.
SF = Semi Float. The Full Float type has bearings in grease, and can't walk if it breaks.
 
Finally got the rear quarter panels completed. Need a little scratch filler on the doors then on to the rear tailgate.

Right Rear Quarter.webp


Left Rear Quarter.webp
 
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That's the plan right now. I'm going to spray the bottom, bumpers, and roll cage first. If I can get a fine texture like the attached pictures on those pieces then the plan is to spray the inside and outside of the tub in a Desert Tan Raptor. If I cannot get the fine texture then I'll paint it flat Desert Tan.

Raptor Texture.webp


Raptor texture 3.webp
 
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Have you figured out what shift boots you are going to use?

I'm trying to find one that will work with my NV4500 and Tranfercase. My location is a little farther back from stock.
 
I've got the same problem. I'm planning on using the stock NV4500 Boot. The shifters will get something else (what ever that is). Keep me posted on your findings.
 
I found the early 60-series shift boot and ring to be ideal for the NV4500. You have to find it used, though, since nobody sells it new.

shifter 001.webp



Have you figured out what shift boots you are going to use?

I'm trying to find one that will work with my NV4500 and Tranfercase. My location is a little farther back from stock.
 
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This is the stock GM boot that came with my NV4500. It looks to be a little larger than the 60 Series above. The smaller boot is cleaner.
The TC shift Boot will be a little more of a trick for me.

NV4500 Boot 1.webp


NV4500 Boot 2.webp
 
This is the stock GM boot that came with my NV4500. It looks to be a little larger than the 60 Series above. The smaller boot is cleaner.
The TC shift Boot will be a little more of a trick for me.

View attachment 1297786

View attachment 1297787

Ya, you should definitely go with the FJ60 boot on your transmission.

Your transfer-case is gonna be the bastard child as with mine.

I fabbed up a stainless steel plate to cover the gaping holes. My plans are to have it Rino lined as soon as I figure out the boot situation. The transfer case hole is farther back then the original. It basically has to have a 3 dimensional boot flange with all of those curves.

I really like how you split/flanged your tunnel. I would do the same, but I would have to remove all my nice Rino liner and the undercoat.
Still debating on this one.
image.webp


image.webp

image.webp
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I had to bend my tranfercase shift lever like a snake to clear everything. Of course this will be different for you since you are running double levers.

Just curious, what is the advantage of the double levers? Maybe that's something I need to look into?
 
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