72 FJ40 Chevota Build

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Thanks. You’re right, the break helped. Always come back!!
 
While installing my switches on the dash I got side tracked with my on board air. Found a 1 1/2 gal air tank that fits under the passenger seat.

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Started laying out the location for everything. The plan is to use the GM Harrison AC compressor to fill the tank. With a regulator and valve to switch the air to the front air locker.

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Installed the regulator, pressure switch, and check valve panel.
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Routed and connected tubing to the front locker
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Installed the Locker Valve and pressure sensor.
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Finally finished my switch panel. Air system is installed, now I have to work on getting the compressor hooked up. Also discovered that my two speed fan has only one speed , high.

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Added a run time meter for engine hours. Also added five led indicators. Fuel pressure greater than 8 psi, air tank greater than 80 psi, airlocker pressure greater than 80 psi at the differential, low and high fan speed indicators.
That’s when I found out that my dual fan controller is not a dual temperature controller. Both high and low speed wires on my fan were coming on. Picked up a second fan controller. Now I have one for low speed temp and one for high speed at higher temperature.

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While installing my switches on the dash I got side tracked with my on board air. Found a 1 1/2 gal air tank that fits under the passenger seat.

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Have you had a chance to use the air tank ? I’m hoping to install one this winter for my lockers and for tires if needed. Wondering on the size of the tank. Currently I boil the compressor if I need the locker, but a tank would nice so I just needed to hit one switch.
 
Have you had a chance to use the air tank ? I’m hoping to install one this winter for my lockers and for tires if needed. Wondering on the size of the tank. Currently I boil the compressor if I need the locker, but a tank would nice so I just needed to hit one switch.
Archie73, have tested the system filling the tank from garage air and all works. I have not connected the AC compressor yet. Been working on a rough idle problem right now. I want to measure how long it takes to drain the tank down to 80psi with the locker engaged to get an idea of how often the compressor will cycle. I'll post some numbers when I get them.

Update: With the font locker engaged, but not rolling, the tank lost 10 psi in an hour (135 to 125). Regulated pressure to the locker was 83 psi. Filling a 12 x 35 tire from 20 psi, drained the tank from 140 psi and only filled the tire to 25 psi. I'll need to wait and see what the recovery rate of my AC compressor will be. The tank is 1.5 gals.
 
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Archie73, have tested the system filling the tank from garage air and all works. I have not connected the AC compressor yet. Been working on a rough idle problem right now. I want to measure how long it takes to drain the tank down to 80psi with the locker engaged to get an idea of how often the compressor will cycle. I'll post some numbers when I get them.

Update: With the font locker engaged, but not rolling, the tank lost 10 psi in an hour (135 to 125). Regulated pressure to the locker was 83 psi. Filling a 12 x 35 tire from 20 psi, drained the tank from 140 psi and only filled the tire to 25 psi. I'll need to wait and see what the recovery rate of my AC compressor will be. The tank is 1.5 gals.
Actually, that helps a lot. Thank you.
For the wheeling I do, it seems like I never really have the locker engaged for more than 10 mins on average. Approach rock or obstacle, engage locker, go over (or not) and disengage locker. I imagine snow or mud wheeling it’d be advantageous to leave it engaged. At any rate I’m looking more toward tires first and foremost. I suppose it’s be nice to just throw the switch for the locker and not have to start the compressor each time. Which makes me think I need a belt driven compressor more than a tank. Tank would be easier though. Thanks again.
 
Running Boards New
Been working on stuff for the past year, just too lazy to add it to the site. I'll try and catch up now. I finally decided on Running Boards/Rock Sliders. I looked into getting tubing bent and it was way too expensive. Decided to use square tubing. The brackets holding the running boards can get hung up on big rocks. I'll figure out how to mount sliding bars underneath later. Also added a strap along the bottom of the body under the door opening to protect the thin sheet metal above the running board. Also added rear fender flares.

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Needed to adjust the angle of the shifter on the NV4500 transmission. In second gear the shifter would hit my leg. Made a piece to connect the shift stick to the transmission stub.

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Installed a brake lever. Tried using the stock pull lever and could not get the leverage to get the brakes to hold so I went with the floor style.
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From the very beginning, I have always had an engine idle that would hunt and was never stable. Searching for solutions I came across an article that provided an answer. I located the O2 sensor in the exhaust in the pipe common to left and right exhaust. The original location was on the down pipe on the left side of the engine. Removed the exhaust and relocated the O2 sensor to the down pipe and it cured the unstable idle.
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Staying with my theme of 'Why buy something for $20 when you can modify $60 in parts to get what you want'. I couldn't find modern windshield wipers to fit the '72 tapered posts. I did find one that fit off a '06 Heep Compass on Amazon. Problem with it was the arm was short and not angled to park correctly. I bought a set of arms from an '04 F150 with longer arms. Removed the end piece from the arms and bent them at the needed angle and installed them in the arm with the tapered shaft mount. This added the length to reach the bottom of the windshield and an angle that allowed them to park out of the way.

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