72 FJ40 Chevota Build

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very nice build going here, love the attention to detail, and your fab skills are impressive. had issues with my brake booster also and ended up going with a power booster out of a 93 Toyota 4x4 mini truck with 22 re and the stock master cylinder for my 78 fj 40, couldent give you part numbers, but everything bolted right up, just had to modifie the brake lines as booster was shorter, I know you got your brakes figured out, but this might help someone else, keep up the good work and cant wait to see it doen and on the road, our definatly going to enjoy it cheers:beer: definatly subscribing, cant wait for the rest of the build :popcorn:
 
[QUOTE="Tokamak, post: 10408861, member:

Is that a store bought console?[/QUOTE]

Tokamak,

It's a Smitty built console. I bought it off a mud member for a really good price. You can get them through Amazon for $100 and free shipping if you're a Prime member.

For the price, it's very well built. Much cheaper than a Tuffy.
 
just to give you more option , i have a one inch body lift and routed my exhaust above the frame

P1030172.webp


P1030174.webp
 
Tokamak, if you are looking for a center console, I might have a possibility. I have a new Honda Van take-out console, grey, built-in cup holders, but fairly large (about 11" tall, about 12" wide, about 17" to 18" long, ebay #262266303816). On ebay for $175.00 since it's worth that to a Honda Van owner, BUT $50.00 to any Mud member. It's width could be an FJ40 problem, but with your obvious skill I bet you could section it down abit??? It's got good bones, but probably needs to be closer to 8" wide.
 
Thanks Jim for the offer, not ready for the console yet. I need to install a lever style e-Brake first.

Jim Land,
Nice clean routing of that exhaust. I'll look at that possibility before welding. I've got a picture of your 40 as a reminder of how I want mine to look. My favorite 40. Thanks.
 
glad you like my 40 thank you .

about your tube crossmember , it look very close to the t-case , i suggest you to make it removeble , weld some thick angle iron at the end of the tube and bolt it on top and side of the frame , if you need to remove the t-case you can unbolt it , just my 2 cents
 
Tokamakl, don't know if you already have your floor lever parking brake kit yet, if not you could look at my ebay #262478755231 for Landcruisers using the El Dorado Calipers.
 
tomsryd said:
I did this when I did my soa and the pinion angles were different front and rear but I kept the same height of the original lower thread to axle tube on each. No more than a quart each.
Click to expand...
I appreciate this discussion as I'm working on relocating my diff fill too (currently on the front only).
I'm not an expert, and not to hijack, but the way I have it set now is to fill as full as possible without getting the level above the bottom lip of the axle seal. I figure this will increase the oil level more than stock, but not enough to submerge the pinion seal, or the axles.
My hope is that more oil will allow the ring gear to sling it into the pinion bearing as I drive, but not have too much oil that I'm leaking out the axle seal.
Great build and craftsmanship @Tokamak
 
jim land said:
glad you like my 40 thank you .

about your tube crossmember , it look very close to the t-case , i suggest you to make it removeble , weld some thick angle iron at the end of the tube and bolt it on top and side of the frame , if you need to remove the t-case you can unbolt it , just my 2 cents
Click to expand...

Point taken. First I was in denial about bolting it in. Once I accepted the reason for the bolt in it only took a few minutes to set it up. Thanks for watching out for my tunnel vision.

Only needed the two bolts on each side, top bolts are redundant in a torque tube configuration and really tough to remove when necessary.

cross tube a.webp


cross tube b.webp


cross tube c.webp
 
Received the 180 degree pipe. It was too big to fit properly in the space allowed. Found a DynoMax muffler with inlet and outlet on the same side. The fit is much better.

New Muffler Route.webp
 
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71FJnick said:
I appreciate this discussion as I'm working on relocating my diff fill too (currently on the front only).
I'm not an expert, and not to hijack, but the way I have it set now is to fill as full as possible without getting the level above the bottom lip of the axle seal. I figure this will increase the oil level more than stock, but not enough to submerge the pinion seal, or the axles.
My hope is that more oil will allow the ring gear to sling it into the pinion bearing as I drive, but not have too much oil that I'm leaking out the axle seal.
Great build and craftsmanship @Tokamak
Click to expand...

FJNick,
I'm thinking the same. Keep the oil level out of the axle tubes. Once it gets high enough to start filling the axle tubes you start adding a lot of oil. The good news is no one has chimed in saying they have had a pinion bearing failure due to low oil after a diff tilt.
Thanks for the compliment.
 
Downey said:
Tokamakl, don't know if you already have your floor lever parking brake kit yet, if not you could look at my ebay #262478755231 for Landcruisers using the El Dorado Calipers.
Click to expand...

Nice looking kit. Didn't see it when I was looking for the parts. Picked up a lever at Pick-a-Part and the cables on line. Maybe next time.
 
Installed the new torque tube. Made some self holding nuts for inside the frame. It also gives you a handle to hold the nut to get it started.
Finished the exhaust and added the tailpipe. Couldn't go over the frame with the tail pipe now but the removable pipe will allow it in the future if needed. (by a muffler shop with a bender) Shot all the welds with high temp paint to reduce rusty welds.

Torque Tube and Exhaust.webp


Nut Holder.webp


Tail Pipe a.webp


Tail Pipe B.webp
 
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Added the Receiver hitch and tire carrier bearing post to the rear bumper.

Bumper Reciever.webp


Bumber Tire Carrier Post.webp
 
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