4Wheel Underground FJ80 3Link....... Now available!!! ***A Full frontal attack***

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So will this setup make it wheel like a Rubicon on 4" lift? (Tongue in cheek:). Honestly though, the more I try to wheel this thing, the more I'm realizing it's limitations. Lack of flex, relatively speaking, and a pretty tipsy feeling on big rocks/off-camber is leading me towards a 3-link setup like this.
 
Sorry I've been away for the last several hours. Been welding up mini's stuff.

Relieving the binding in the front should help relieve some of the tippyness. It won't fix anything wrong with the rear suspension but it will help the front not bind to the point of forcing the front end to lean over due to a lack of free movement.
 
So I've got a buddy with a buggy. We re trying to dial in his geometry. But he has this other friend that knows better than anyone. Currently I set him up with about 17% anti squat in the rear. After watching him in action the rear of the vehicle dips 1". Which is really good when going up a 50* waterfall. His front end keeps lifting about an inch too. Overall. Not bad. In fact pretty dammed good on 42 " s and 400hp.

This other guy keeps trying to fix the nose raising with adjusting the rear geometry. Of course I keep insisting he's wrong but what do I know. So without getting into a discussion let me say this. You will never fix the rear of your rig messing with the front. If you have a problem with the rear then address the rear. If you have a problem with front the address the front. No amount of tweaking the rear will fix the front regardless of the fact that rear of the vehicle drives the vehicle. That is just a misunderstanding of what was intended to be said.
 
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Can you be more specific? Most lifted 80's I see have pretty good hook up on the rear if I recall. BTW nice looking brackets for that kit. How do you cut them out?

The stock suspension geometry calculator spreadsheets(front and rear with a 6/4 slee lift) are on my Facebook page. My name is Paul Ryun. It's a toilet bowl, even by lifted jeep TJ short arm standards
 
going to watch this, i am very interested, something I may be able to swing after september
 
Slow speeds it's fine. Free ways not so much. It lifts during breaking and doesn't have the traction it should based on lift amount.

Thank you and the brackets are laser cut.
I would imagine thats due to the front suspension causing the rear to lift.
The stock suspension geometry calculator spreadsheets(front and rear with a 6/4 slee lift) are on my Facebook page. My name is Paul Ryun. It's a toilet bowl, even by lifted jeep TJ short arm standards
Huh ok. I don't do facebook cuz they do wierd stuff with your info, but I guess I will have to investigate it.
 
80s don't nose dive when lifted with a 3 link and higher AD nimbers(above 60% or so). The upper link pushes back( up) on the frame when panic braking. Just another reason to cut off radius arms....
 
So what is the consensus on a rear solution then? If I missed that I apologize. I do think its relevant to this thread as I don't really envision dropping $3k+ on the front only to turn around and spend a bunch on the rear.
 
So what is the consensus on a rear solution then? If I missed that I apologize. I do think its relevant to this thread as I don't really envision dropping $3k+ on the front only to turn around and spend a bunch on the rear.

I don't think there's any kits out there yet that will fix the rear suspension. My plan after doing the front is to simply sleeve/extend the lower control arms and raise the panhard at the axle until a better solution comes around.
 
I love the look of this 3 link kit. With everything you get its a hell of a deal. Unfortunately it will not work with my engine swap the upper axel link mount will hammer my engine mount. At full bump I have 3/4" clearance between the pumpkin and the mount. :(

Can't see any way to get a upper link on mine with that kind of axel end separation.
 

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