4Wheel Underground FJ80 3Link....... Now available!!! ***A Full frontal attack***

[4WheelUnderground]

Okay so first off, Woody would you please contact me regarding Vendor upgrade status. Just have a few questions on what I'm buying. Also I really don't want to get deleted. So I'd like to do the same thing here as I did on Pirate, First official sale goes to getting vendor status here.

While the Built to the Hilt thread sparked intrigue and the Flexing the 3Link thread has some great discussion about geometry, here is a thread that not only "finally" releases the FJ80 3Link to the general public but is also a Q&A for anyone interested.

Today is 07/31/14 4WU is releasing the front 3link for the general public. The first 5 kits will be sold at a $400 discount. This is a first come first serve situation. At the moment only one has been reserved. jcardona1 you were first.

Here is a link to the 4WU FJ80 Page. http://www.4wheelunderground.com/fj80front3link.html

FYI I am on a serious mission to show people that coilovers aren't something to be afraid of. The general perception of them has been negative in years past due to lack of understanding on how to tune them. I have worked for many years learning this whole suspension "thing" and I do not put to market sub par quality parts. The same goes for the tuning of the spring rates and shocks. I strongly believe that even rock crawlers can benefit from shock tuning and geometry enhancements and I have told many potential customers what I am about to tell you know. The geometry is 50% of your suspension the springs and shocks are the other 50%. Which is why I am telling you now..... "DON'T HALF ASS THIS!"


Q&A open.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

What rear spring is the kit designed around?
What is the lift amount the kit is designed for?
What is the caster reading using the design?
What steering set up do you recommend?
What else needs attention in your kit? Brakes, panhard, ABS, Elocker wiring, etc
What weight 80 series are the shocks valved for? What assistance do you offer if additional valving is needed?
What instruction are included?
Is the $500 off the posted prices on the web link above?

 

[4WheelUnderground]

What rear spring is the kit designed around?
What is the lift amount the kit is designed for?
What is the caster reading using the design?
What steering set up do you recommend?
What else needs attention in your kit? Brakes, panhard, ABS, Elocker wiring, etc
What weight 80 series are the shocks valved for? What assistance do you offer if additional valving is needed?
What instruction are included?
Is the $500 off the posted prices on the web link above?

5"s. But one up or one down wont change much. Lower is always better, but even at 6"s you'll love this thing.
6* of caster and go get a double cardan drive shaft.
Steering... This is the awesome thing about the kit. You can run nearly anything you want to. I'd be typing for ever if I listed them. Hell Fire, Slee, Stock/depends on lift.
what else needs attention. You may need to redo brake lines. Ya I know having flex is a SOB.
The front of these vehicles and most are easy to set up on spring and shock tuning. As the weight mostly stays the same. So right off the bat the shocks and springs are set up for an 1100 lb. per corner weight. All Sprung weight. Unsprung weight is not considered in this discussion. So yes the shocks are set up for this vehicles weight. It is vastly different from what I do with the mini Trucks.
Currently I don't have instructions. Im hoping my tech support will help you though the tough spots and I'll be able to write instructions based off that.
YES... the $400 is off the posted price on the website. I am not sure who is offering my kit for $500 off. LOL!

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Steering options

Hell Fire Draglink under high steer arm. Tie rod can go behind axle, or in front of axle if you have Ausy arm. Same with Slee arms. Stock steering is an option if you have 2.0"s of lift and are willing to bend pan hard arm. Double shear set ups are doable with over seas arms with either Hell Fire or Slee set up. All your choice.

With the way the pan hard bracket is designed any of these types of steering systems will work. The reason is because of the position or type of bracket the panhard has been mounted to on the axle. At any point and time you can change the panhard to mimic your drag link and negate bump steer by doing so.

 

[Booger weldz]

Here's my 2cents, since I already have the front stuff.

I'm envisioning using your front 3 link parts on the rear, where the bump pad/lower link bracket also serves as the coil mount. The axle side panhard mount can go much higher in this application(possibly your minitruck piece) and the outriggers for the frame side lowers won't work in the current shape for this. But my gears are turning in my head..

Rear Shock location is still a bitch on these. Nobodies (most) gonna wanna cut into the cargo area...

Just brainstorming....

The front end suspension will most definitely change the lifted trucks for the better(hugely). But resculpturing both for and aft would be pure nirvana. People will solely be hindered by the girth and fancy sheet metal. These vehicles will be insanely capable in other regards.

So ***in glad the radius arm era is coming to a close forks are for eating, not wheeling!!

 

[Booger weldz]

With the way the pan hard bracket is designed any of these types of steering systems will work. so.

I used this same design on my drivetrain mounts. The motor and tranny/Tcase heights were hugely adjustable by merely stacking washers/spacers. It worked great.

Props for the panhard application! Pure geniusgenius

 

[VuickB6]

Okay so first off, Woody would you please contact me regarding Vendor upgrade status. Just have a few questions on what I'm buying. Also I really don't want to get deleted. So I'd like to do the same thing here as I did on Pirate, First official sale goes to getting vendor status here.

While the Built to the Hilt thread sparked intrigue and the Flexing the 3Link thread has some great discussion about geometry, here is a thread that not only "finally" releases the FJ80 3Link to the general public but is also a Q&A for anyone interested.

Today is 07/31/14 4WU is releasing the front 3link for the general public. The first 5 kits will be sold at a $400 discount. This is a first come first serve situation. At the moment only one has been reserved. jcardona1 you were first.

Here is a link to the 4WU FJ80 Page. http://www.4wheelunderground.com/fj80front3link.html

FYI I am on a serious mission to show people that coilovers aren't something to be afraid of. The general perception of them has been negative in years past due to lack of understanding on how to tune them. I have worked for many years learning this whole suspension "thing" and I do not put to market sub par quality parts. The same goes for the tuning of the spring rates and shocks. I strongly believe that even rock crawlers can benefit from shock tuning and geometry enhancements and I have told many potential customers what I am about to tell you know. The geometry is 50% of your suspension the springs and shocks are the other 50%. Which is why I am telling you now..... "DON'T HALF ASS THIS!"


Q&A open.

 

[nukegoat]

I'm surprised that people have had a negative impression of coilovers.

 

[LFD2037]

I'm surprised that people have had a negative impression of coilovers.

Just the price!!!

 

[Booger weldz]

I'm surprised that people have had a negative impression of coilovers.

Links and coilovers. Many years of hacked up trucks built w little knowledge in the beginning. Ask Brian how the kit he bought years ago from an off-road company 'worked'.

I was super apprehensive for years because of the horror stories from botched jobs on pirate all thru the early 2000s

 

[jcardona1]

I'm so ready for this. Been anxiously waiting for a good solution ever since I saw your first thread a while back. Can't wait to cut out the crappy stock suspension. I have a few more questions, that I'm sure someone else may have down the line too.

1. Air & poly bumps. I notice from the other member's install that the bump cans don't allow you to adjust the position of the bump. Looks like they're welded in permanently. Could there be any issues down the road with this? Could a need arise in the future where you'd want to raise or lower the bumps? Doesn't look like you could adjust after welding as far as I can tell from these photos. Unless your kit doesn't come with the mounting brackets for the cans and that was added by the customer.

I guess I was envisioning a mount that lets you adjust up or down. Or is this something we purchase on our own? Something like this:

2. Steering...I know you mentioned steering can be a done a number of different ways, just want to make sure what I'm planning on will work. I'd like to go for a semi-high steer crossover setup. Right now I have a y-link setup with my tierod up front using the right hand drive steering arm. Looks like this right now:

What I'd like to do after linking the front end is leave the tierod where it is, but move the draglink up using only 1 Slee hi-steer arm on the passenger side knuckle like this setup below. I know the draglink will be fine, but will there by any clearance issues between the panhard and a large diameter heavy duty tierod sitting that low on the axle?

 

[4WheelUnderground]

If you zoom in on the picture you posted with the pinch style bump you'll notice a thin snap ring at the bottom of the can. That snap ring is what is keeping the bump from coming out of the can during hard hits, not the pinch bolts. So your fox style cans are not adjustable like many people think. Once you weld them in its done.

Steering. You'll have to run the drag link under the arm.

 

[jcardona1]

If you zoom in on the picture you posted with the pinch style bump you'll notice a thin snap ring at the bottom of the can. That snap ring is what is keeping the bump from coming out of the can during hard hits, not the pinch bolts. So your fox style cans are not adjustable like many people think. Once you weld them in its done.

Steering. You'll have to run the drag link under the arm.

Ah interesting, didn't know that about the cans. Guess it's the same regardless then.

Re: steering...I'm a little confused. Why does it have to be run under the Slee hi-steer arm? And would that orientation even work with a standard TRE?

 

[4WheelUnderground]

It just has to do with where the panhard is and keeping it and the drag link parallel to each other. I built it that way because putting the draglink on top of the steering arm netted about 2"s less up travel because of the frame. So moving it down freed up more wheel travel.

 

[Wrench]

So this will work with stock steering set up?

 

[OGBeno]

So this will work with stock steering set up?

Does not look like you can pull this off with the stock steering setup.

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Actually you can but I'd really limit your lift amount to 2"s.

 

[Wrench]

Does not look like you can pull this off with the stock steering setup.

That sucks.

 

[4WheelUnderground]

One more for you.

 

[Wrench]

2 inch lift is a joke. Action Jackson ran a 3 link with 6 inch lift and stock steering.