4runner.... rescue? (1 Viewer)

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Great looking 1/2 Top! Any chance you still have the L molding that you took off from the windows? Mine have a bunch of rust pinholes in them

I do have it, but it will be replacing the rusty L-moulding on my hardtop.
 
What became of the SCS wheels? Do you know what size they were? 17"? Backspace and offset? Were there any issues with caliper clearance or rubbing with the 33s on the 1989 Runner? I'm looking for wheels for a 1990 pickup. It's fairly tricky to get accurate first hand info.
 
You do realize you need to remove the sliding window, with frame, to replace the l-trim?
Yep. It's just butyl holding it in and relatively easy to cut off of the topper
(I had them out last year when I installed new sliding window weatherstrips)
 
What became of the SCS wheels? Do you know what size they were? 17"? Backspace and offset? Were there any issues with caliper clearance or rubbing with the 33s on the 1989 Runner? I'm looking for wheels for a 1990 pickup. It's fairly tricky to get accurate first hand info.

I sold them. They were 16” wheels. If they had been 17s I would have kept them and painted them. I loved the look but there are no good tire options for 16s.

They fit great. No issues with caliper clearance or anything.
 
Thanks for the info. I have some rubbing at full lock with 33s . 17" wheel with +15 offset. I would like to avoid spacers if I can.

Rubbing what? I have done some pretty extensive cutting on the front and rear of the 4runner since I was running 35s for a while. Now on 33x10.50s I get zero rubbing. Didn’t have any rubbingby in the front ever with 35s, 305s, or 33s. It was always out back.
 
It rubs on the sway bar elbow where it comes out from under the frame. It's still an IFS truck. Rubs with 16" Tacoma wheels and 17" FJ Cruiser wheels. Not a huge deal, except with chains on.
 
It rubs on the sway bar elbow where it comes out from under the frame. It's still an IFS truck. Rubs with 16" Tacoma wheels and 17" FJ Cruiser wheels. Not a huge deal, except with chains on.

Ah. Yea I took the swaybar off pretty much the day I brought it home.
 
I may have just found the best (in my opinion) Toyota wheels for these first gen 4runners.

They’re off some 70 series. Look just like OEM wheels but they have a -20 offset. Back space is 3.5”. Here they are with 33x10.50s. I’m in love. Tiny bit of poke with the OEM look and no spacers.

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No issues mounting those? I have a set in gunmetal grey with -20 offset that I haven't messed with yet. I can't go that wide with the tires so I am bit jealous of the look.
 
No issues mounting those? I have a set in gunmetal grey with -20 offset that I haven't messed with yet. I can't go that wide with the tires so I am bit jealous of the look.

None at all. Bolted on with no spacers and clear everything with room to spare. A 10.50 tire is perfect on these with IFS.
 
None at all. Bolted on with no spacers and clear everything with room to spare. A 10.50 tire is perfect on these with IFS.

Awesome, I'm going to test fit them this week and work out the tire size after. I can't have much poking out, its over in Japan so I have to keep pretty tame.
 
I just couldn’t leave well enough alone.

I unbolted everything before I started cutting. I’m about 33% done with the grinding/cleanup. I figure I’ve been at it for about 9.5 hours, but I’ve been moving slow and taking my time making sure I didn’t set anything on fire.

Hats off to the guys who do this with a grinder and a sawzall. I borrowed a plasma - the last thing I needed was a grinder injury before Christmas.

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Update. Finished grinding. If that wasn’t the worst part of the SAS I’m not finishing.

I’m now figuring out spring hanger and shackle placement and how I’m going to drill those frame holes. Not a lot of room to work with in there. I think it’d be too sloppy if I used the plasma.

Christmas is starting so things will have to wait.
 
Drilling the shackle tubes isn’t hard, but space is tight if all you have is a regular drill AND sliders. I’m still trying to figure out how to do the driver side without moving the exhaust, but it might not be possible.

Using the templates and the 1/4” rod in the hole saw arbor trick makes it easy to get your holes where you want them. Go slow. Use lube.

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