See if they can beef it up if you do the rebuild. Always better to be safe than sorry. Im sure they could build it up for less than what a 4l75e would cost
Shifting the Tcase? If so mine is the same way
4l60 / Transfer Case Grinding / Is this normal? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dubs2017
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See if they can beef it up if you do the rebuild. Always better to be safe than sorry. Im sure they could build it up for less than what a 4l75e would cost
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- #23
Well, in SLC this is what it costs to get a 4l6X rebuilt. So with the goodies i'm looking at $2,239.80. Hmmm. I can spend quite a few early mornings in the garage for $2k... Now gotta price out the rebuild and upgrade parts cost.
Rebuild: $1864.80
Core: $500
+$125 for beast shell - shell is known for spline breaking
+$200 Shift kit - makes upshifts firmer. Increases lubrication to drivetrain
+$50 for corvette servo
Includes torque converter
2 year warranty
Done in 6 to 8 business
Rebuild: $1864.80
Core: $500
+$125 for beast shell - shell is known for spline breaking
+$200 Shift kit - makes upshifts firmer. Increases lubrication to drivetrain
+$50 for corvette servo
Includes torque converter
2 year warranty
Done in 6 to 8 business
i was talking transfer case.
I have a lokar shifter i can switch from L 1 2 D with no issues or grinding.
make sure to add the extra planetary gear. i forget the name of it. any transmission shop will understand extra planetary gear.
here it is:
700R4/4L60E 5 Pinion Rear Planetary Heavy Duty/High Performance | Cyclone Transmission - https://cyclonetransmission.com/products/700r4-4l60e-5-pinion-rear-planetary-heavy-duty-high-performance
i added the suncaost to mine:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks for the reco/ I've seen that mentioned a few times in reading through info this morning.
I am going back and forth on doing this myself. Going to read a few more rebuild/upgrade threads on LS1tech and triple check the finances.
My transmisison guy is an ultra4 racer he see that as the fail point on offroaders. In addition he used that and a mixture of brands clutch plates - transgo and a specific brand for the 2/3 and 3/4 clutch plates.
ultimately - i spent $3,500 on my tranny rebuild. but ill never have to revisit it. I built mine for TQ wind up and offroading abuse.
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- #28
Thanks for this. It's helpful to get a gut check on the cost I was quoted, and the more inputs the better for upgrades.
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They’re not too difficult, set up a nice clean workbench with good lighting, put a towel down to absorb fluid and so small parts don’t slide off, take lots of pictures.
Keep in mind if you do an exchange with your shop your output shaft is cut so they will likely void your core exchange refund.
Keep in mind if you do an exchange with your shop your output shaft is cut so they will likely void your core exchange refund.
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- #30
Thanks Matt. Does that output shaft play and noise seem alarming to your eye?
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the play is normal, it's supported by the bearing in the adapter (or a bushing in the original tailhousing).
I think that noise is normal, from a one-way sprag that is in there, but it's been awhile since I've done one. I've rebuilt a Th400, 4l60e and 4l80e just once each so I am certainly not an expert
I think that noise is normal, from a one-way sprag that is in there, but it's been awhile since I've done one. I've rebuilt a Th400, 4l60e and 4l80e just once each so I am certainly not an expert
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- #32
Cool. Thanks Matt. Appreciate it.
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- #33
Had a minute to tear down the t-case. Nothing glaringly wrong, but definitely have some fine ground metal in the bottom, and there is ATF on the rear of the Advanced Adapter. Seems possible that I overfilled the transmission, but not sure if that is an indicator of a different problem. Any thoughts on that?
And the only part of the rebuild that I didn't do myself the first go around was pressing the new bearings onto the output shaft, as I didn't want to buy a press. Going to look closely at that to make sure all good. Otherwise, going to rebuild it again and see if a second attempt works better.
And the only part of the rebuild that I didn't do myself the first go around was pressing the new bearings onto the output shaft, as I didn't want to buy a press. Going to look closely at that to make sure all good. Otherwise, going to rebuild it again and see if a second attempt works better.
The ATF likes to creep through the spud shaft and the giant bearing on the Adapter. At least mine did. I used FIPG all on the splines and around the little metal spacer thing and i dont get ATF in the case anymore.
Did you put a new idler shaft in when you did the rebuild? Hows the wear look on it?
Did you put a new idler shaft in when you did the rebuild? Hows the wear look on it?
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- #35
Hmm. Good call on FIPG on the little spacer. I did the splines under the bearing, but obviously not enough. Nothing like dripping ATF under my new motor swap to convince me to be liberal with the red goo.
and yeah, did a new idler shaft. Looks decent to me, BUT, it only has 8 miles on it, so...
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What I started doing with the 4l60’s is not using the paper gasket between the adapter and front transfer case half, and using RTV on this area marked in green, that way the ATF doesn’t enter that lower chamber and pool up.
One thing you could do when you reassemble is just install the front T-case half, with only the input gear and nut, fill the transmission with fluid, and start the truck and put the transmission in gear and run it up and see how it sounds, that way you eliminate the T-case from the equation. Just don’t try and put it back into park with the engine running, since it don’t have resistance from the brakes it will just spin up to high gear and never come down, just shut the engine off and shift back to neutral
One thing you could do when you reassemble is just install the front T-case half, with only the input gear and nut, fill the transmission with fluid, and start the truck and put the transmission in gear and run it up and see how it sounds, that way you eliminate the T-case from the equation. Just don’t try and put it back into park with the engine running, since it don’t have resistance from the brakes it will just spin up to high gear and never come down, just shut the engine off and shift back to neutral
Ah man mine showed way more wear than that, but i had a few hundred or more miles on mine, you can definitely see where the idler gear is riding on it
This is genius
tmxmotorsports
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Solid advice.
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- #39
Making a bit of progress. Taking Matt's advice and put the front half of the case with input gear onto the transmission.
Started it up, gave it some gas, and kicked it into neutral so I could hear it spinning over the lack of exhaust. Couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary coming from the transmission, so am going to rebuild the t-case and see how it goes.
Started it up, gave it some gas, and kicked it into neutral so I could hear it spinning over the lack of exhaust. Couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary coming from the transmission, so am going to rebuild the t-case and see how it goes.
