40 series general tech and classifieds

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If I had a 40 I would go with Mojave springs that lcwizard (4+) designed...get them from Georg not MAF.

They are designed to be soft for daily drive and flex when needed. Just buy the springs put them on then measure flex for right shocks and get them off ebay the 2nd's (paint issues) for next to nothing.

FJ40 Mojave Leaf Spring Suspension
 
SHUSH said:
I am wanting to shift down to a 2.5 Hell creek kit when the time comes and am gathering info.

My 4inch skyjacker is riding super rough and is rusted/ plain worn out. I'm thinking of replacing the entire suspension (stabilizer, shocks, springs, U bolts, etc.). I have new shackles im about to put on so the kit would completely redo my ride quality and height.

Remember I am building towards a weekend warrior, stockish look, drive to work 3 times a week kind of rig.
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Let me know what you want for your old skyjacker stuff. I'm interested.
 
Bomar said:
If I had a 40 I would go with Mojave springs that lcwizard (4+) designed...get them from Georg not MAF.

They are designed to be soft for daily drive and flex when needed. Just buy the springs put them on then measure flex for right shocks and get them off ebay the 2nd's (paint issues) for next to nothing.

FJ40 Mojave Leaf Spring Suspension
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I'll second that. Most comfortable springs I've ridden on other than $$$ Alcans. Anything Dave Gore designs is first rate.
 
I'm gonna throw this out there. I'm a total n00b when it comes to 40s.

What are the differences in years? You guys talk about bibs and rollbars being correct for the year, but when?

Also, there is a difference in sheet metal thickness, correct? What years?

I appreciate any insight :clap:
 
Thanks guys....didn't know about Dave Gore....I will look into that for sure. I am definitely in the DD category and not MOAB every weekend category.

Rob.....it will be a while before the skyjacker stuff comes off but ill give it to you cheap.
 
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FJ40 Changes by Production Year

Jordan7118 said:
I'm gonna throw this out there. I'm a total n00b when it comes to 40s.

What are the differences in years? You guys talk about bibs and rollbars being correct for the year, but when?

Also, there is a difference in sheet metal thickness, correct? What years?

I appreciate any insight :clap:
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There are many differences, most of them subtle. Off the top of my head, major changes you should become acquainted with are--2F engine and 4 speed tranny beginning in '74, Rear ambulance doors in '75, Front disc brakes in '76, Sheet metal went from 16 to crappy 18 gauge in '78, bezel went from roundlish to squarish in '79, 22 gallon gas tank in '79, change from 4.11 to 3.73 gears in '79, and so on...

Here's a summary of major changes by year. Commit this to memory and come back Friday for your exam. ;)

BTW, welcome to the 40 cult, and I do mean cult. :cheers:

40 Series Specific Info

Production Timeline (US/Canada)


MODEL
YEAR ENG TRANSMISSION TRANSFER OTHER 1960 F 3-on the tree 2.313:1 Start of prodution Small round FR turn signals Single brake master cyl resevoir 1963 3 on the floor (Option) 1964 Flip-up roof vent removed 1965 Larger side windows and corner windows added 1968 30 fine spline axles replace 10 coarse splines Birfield joints replace ball joints in FR Siamese centre exhaust ports replaced One piece manifold gasket added Cable throttle linkage replaces rod Padded Dash Vin plate on door pillars 1969 "Improved" steering centre arm Small Rectangular FR turn signals Replaceable element oil filter replaced with cartridge type (03/69) 1970 Dual resevoir master cyl Dual horns 1971 Power Brakes (07/70) 1972 3 on the floor STD Smog pump appears (09/72) 1973 Separate model for Calif introduced (09/73) EGR system added (09/73) Saftey catch added on hood Ignition switch moved to steering column Factory AM radio Stronger steering box 1974 2F 4 SPD 1.999:1 Larger universal joints & flanges Rectangular RR brake lights/turn signals RR lower shock bolt moves from axle to U- bolt bracket Clutch changed from coil spring type to diaphragm (08/74) Longest production run of any LC (9/73- 12/74) 1975 1.959:1 Thicker side doors Ambulance doors replace lift/tailgate LG Square FR Turn Signals/side markers Wipers move to bottom of windshield Muffler moved from between frame rails to under rear tub 1976 FR disk brakes 1977 Tubular spare tire mount (09/76) Pop-out rear windows (08/76) 1978 2F,B Diesel comes to Canada 1979 3.73:1 Diff becomes standard on FJ 22 gal under-floor fuel tank Improved exhaust manifold Power steering Air conditioning Reclining Seats Catalytic converter Fewer, larger body mounts Squared off headlight bezel 1981-2 2.276 3B comes to Canada Larger shackles, hangers & frame gussets Split case transfer case New RR brakes with 11.8" drums and single self-adjusting wheel cylinder (8/80) Parking brake moved from rear of TFR to rear drums Rear heater moves under center console "Shield" shaped steering wheel centre Locking "Pocket" Chrome window weather stripping replaced with rubber 1983 5SPD 1.959 Dash re-designed & includes digital clock Chrome outer door felt replaced with rubber 1984 Production CEASES! :(
 
Shush, if it were me, I would take the springs off the truck, disassemble the packs. Sand, paint, reinstall.

Save your money and get good Bilstein 5100 series shocks, bushings and shackles.

Springs are springs for road warrior work. Clean them and paint will improve them 75% and get the proper shackle angles.
 
wngrog said:
Shush, if it were me, I would take the springs off the truck, disassemble the packs. Sand, paint, reinstall.

Save your money and get good Bilstein 5100 series shocks, bushings and shackles.

Springs are springs for road warrior work. Clean them and paint will improve them 75% and get the proper shackle angles.
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great advice.....im planning to do this until the possible lowering/new suspension but that's a year or more down the road....the fight right now is to have it running well/not leaking and clean the axles as I do the front axle rebuild
 
wngrog said:
Shush, if it were me, I would take the springs off the truck, disassemble the packs. Sand, paint, reinstall.

Save your money and get good Bilstein 5100 series shocks, bushings and shackles.

Springs are springs for road warrior work. Clean them and paint will improve them 75% and get the proper shackle angles.
Click to expand...

x2 on Bilstein 5100's

Didn't you mention already having new shackles? Don't swap them out without replacing bushings. Poly bushings are cheap.

I thought your springs were flat? If not, Grainger Supply sells an industrial coating that's great for resurfacing leaf springs. It's around $40 a gallon but worth it IMO.

Here: SLIP Plate #1Dry Film Lubricant, 1 Gal - Penetrants and Lubricants - Lubricants - 1WVL3 : Grainger Industrial Supply
 
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Sea Knight said:
x2 on Bilstein 5100's

Didn't you mention already having new shackles? Don't swap them out without replacing bushings. Poly bushings are cheap.

I thought your springs were flat? If not, Grainger Supply sells an industrial coating that's great for resurfacing leaf springs. It's around $40 a gallon but worth it IMO.

Here: SLIP Plate #1Dry Film Lubricant, 1 Gal - Penetrants and Lubricants - Lubricants - 1WVL3 : Grainger Industrial Supply
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Thanks Sea Knight will check this out. Yes I have new shackles and bushings in the garage. I plan to remove springs and clean later this week and reinstall with new shackles. I will definiely look into Bilsteins as an option.
 
euclid said:
Chris Begerly. Bought the 100 from me. I think he's looking for an 80 to replace the 40's. Good guy, buy w confidence.
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Do you know if his extra 2f is any good?
 
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