40 series general tech and classifieds (5 Viewers)

[SHUSH]

Well after a back order on the part, my father in law giving us a scare with a mild heart attack, and filling in for my boss for the last week I got enough time tonight to sneak to the garage. The GR starter install went smooth but had to get a longer battery cable from Autozone to finish the job. If doing this mod check your new starter to see where the battery cable bolts on, factory is on the top left (as you look at the firewall) My GR was to the bottom right which meant mine was 1 inch to short. It starts awesome and does sound a little off as Andy said.

Greg's suggestion on using the lower bolt as a guide made it super easy and saying "come on you heavy sucka" also aided in pulling it off.

I connected the battery line to the starter and the ground from starter to frame, does the extra ground from battery to starter just a redundancy?

 

[SHUSH]

anybody done a ez wiring harness or painelss on a 40? any does and don'ts? While redoing my starter I realized how shoddy my wiring is and im kinda nervous I might burn my shunt down.

Home of EZ Wiring and the painless site show that the painless has labels ON the wires and is color coded which is awesome, but it's freakin expensive! the ezwiring is a third of the painless but the painless factor I love is the coded wires so you don't have to even fool with a diagram.

I have NEVER done electrical stuff or soldered but this may be a winter project for me...any wisdom...im all ears.

ive read 6 threads on this and most guys say the painless is worth it but a few just flame it.

 

[lenross1]

Any kit is worth it IMHO. takes the guesswork out of it and makes it easier. If you have limited electrical experience, like me, a kit is worth its weight in gold. Still
A lot of work but a little easier.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

I have the harness out of the '78 I parted out. Yours cheap compared to Painless, etc.

 

[SHUSH]

if it's in decent shape ....im interested Lash....send me a pic...im pm'ing you my email

 

[wngrog]

if it's in decent shape ....im interested Lash....send me a pic...im pm'ing you my email

I tried a painless about 8 years ago and unless they changed it up a lit, it was not a good experience.

Either use the one Lash has or keep yours and patch. OEM all the way on electrical stuff.

 

[Sea Knight]

I tried a painless about 8 years ago and unless they changed it up a lit, it was not a good experience.

Either use the one Lash has or keep yours and patch. OEM all the way on electrical stuff.

I'll second Nolen's advice. The "Painless" kit may be labeled, but installation ain't painless by any means. Buy the OEM harness from Lash or do some patching as necessary.

Regardless of the wiring you end up using, you might consider replacing the factory fuse block with a marine grade fuse panel, such as this one from Blue Sea... Amazon.com: Blue Sea 5029 St Blade Fuse Block W/cover - 12 Circuit W/out Negative Bus: Sports & Outdoors

 

[Bodean]

I agree with Nolen. I have a buddy that tried a "Painfull" wiring harness last year and he ended up tossing it and getting a harness from another truck and doing the needed repairs.

 

[SHUSH]

yeah Lash has one i might use if I determine (with help) mine is to far gone.....my problem is I have all the MSD ignition stuff so my wiring is unique from the get go

 

[SHUSH]

WEnt for a bbq run in the 40 tonight and when I got back parked in the driveway. (30 minute drive at 50 mph) Went out an hour later to pull in the garage and it turned over like normal but died after 5 seconds. Did this 4 times and if I added gas it died quicker. I could hear a hissing sound coming from the top of the carb.

I know webers have a 2 piece adapter which is prone to vacuum leaks and mine looks questionable. Im going to check for fuel flow in the morning but im wondering if this is a vacuum leak or possibly just a sign I need to go see Myron for a tune up?

I read a post where a guy said that when his adapter gasket blew he could hear an audible whistle and he stopped it by putting a rag tight against the adapter base. I plan to try this after checking fuel flow.

What else can I check and what do yall think?

 

[Bodean]

Mine did it a few years ago and I wiped a little silicone across where it was leaking (we were at an event) and it fixed it. Have never gotten around to fixing it right. Yours may be more severe.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

John, I installed the Painless kit in my FJ40 in 2004. I think the majority of problems that people encounter is that it is not a simple drop in harness, it is up to the end user to configure it and fit it to what they have. I learned a heck of a lot about Land Cruiser wiring, schematics, Painless products, and what is involved in fitting an aftermarket kit to a 30 year old truck. Knowing what I know now, I could install a Painless harness in a long weekend. It sounds like you might not need to replace your whole harness. The best thing to do is get with someone who knows cruiser wiring very well, and figure out what your goals are in regards to the wiring harness, then narrow down your solutions. If you want, PM me and we can talk.

Brian

 

[MEMCruiser]

Get his help quick before he gets married and has no time. Brian is good with wiring and electrics. He has helped me before.

 

[SHUSH]

I think im going to attempt repairing what I have. with all the MSD ignition stuff I would end up splicing a new harness up so bad it doesn't make sense. I used 15 zip ties and it all ready looks better.

 

[Sea Knight]

I think im going to attempt repairing what I have. with all the MSD ignition stuff I would end up splicing a new harness up so bad it doesn't make sense. I used 15 zip ties and it all ready looks better.

Repairing your OEM wiring is wise. Rewiring is a huge PIA unless you have experienced help.

You'll find a lot of mixed "expert" opinions on whether MSD ignition gear provides any measurable benefits. I installed an MSD ignition controller and coil on my FJ62 years ago and would like to think it was a good thing, but can't provide any real evidence that it was. On the other hand I opted against MSD for the 40, just because I didn't want to hack into the old harness. Since yours is already in place, no harm in leaving it there, and it may even be beneficial.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Can the transfer case breather get plugged? When I was filling it with 90 wt, pressure would build in the case and force the pump nozzle away with a whosh of air. Probably a big cause of the TC leaks when pressure builds at speed. Where is the breather and how easy is it to get to? Thanks

 

[SHUSH]

thanks Sea Knight.......yeah the PPO did it and it's only a few years old so im leaving it.

I am also toying with the idea of a new dizzy...Electronic ignitions are reliable and low maintenence. I think mine still has the semi electronic ignitions on the 76-78 models but I dont know how to tell. I am considering an HEI to get away from points....I think it may be part of my starting woes........thoughts?

 

[wngrog]

Can the transfer case breather get plugged? When I was filling it with 90 wt, pressure would build in the case and force the pump nozzle away with a whosh of air. Probably a big cause of the TC leaks when pressure builds at speed. Where is the breather and how easy is it to get to? Thanks

Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Search On 068-03


Look at #6

 

[lenross1]

thanks Sea Knight.......yeah the PPO did it and it's only a few years old so im leaving it.

I am also toying with the idea of a new dizzy...Electronic ignitions are reliable and low maintenence. I think mine still has the semi electronic ignitions on the 76-78 models but I dont know how to tell. I am considering an HEI to get away from points....I think it may be part of my starting woes........thoughts?

Fuel injection and don't look back. Just ask jrob how he likes his.
Had mine installed 9 years ago in the zuk and i love it. It always cranks, no matter the temp or how long it sits.

 

[SHUSH]

Fuel injection and don't look back. Just ask jrob how he likes his.
Had mine installed 9 years ago in the zuk and i love it. It always cranks, no matter the temp or how long it sits.

yeah but what does it cost?!!!