FYI, what little off-road low-range gearing you think you might have had in the past will completely disappear when you add 35's.
That said, 35's look pimp.
That said, 35's look pimp.
40 series general tech and classifieds
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I'm sure I will be in market for a georg built Orion in a few months.
Didn't Lash use stock gearing with large tires for a long time?
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IIRC, 80 series wheels have 4.5" backspacing. I think they look pretty good on a 40.
What size are your AT's?
33x10.5R15
Serious wheeling with 35s and stock gearing requires more beating/bouncing/bumping than I liked. 99% sure my broken spring center pin at Moab was the result of how hard I was having to pound on it to keep up. I also chose an H41 transmission for the lower first gear. This lower first helps on and off road with 35s. It might even be low enough for 37s some day?? Next step for me is a front ARB locker and stronger axles, birfs, and hubs.
You would have to use 1" spacers on 80 wheels just to get back to OEM wheel backspacing. It would take 2.25"+ spacers to get as wide as most with 80 series wheels. Pretty sure J & SRob have around 2" effective backspacing and their tires are 13.50 width. Mine are puny 35 x 12.50. I do like the look of painted 80 wheels on a 40 though.
I need to trade a 4runner.
80 series rims, 315s 75R16, 1" spacers on the front 40 series axle, no spacers needed on the rear 60 series axle
also, how tippy it feels has a lot to do with how much you slide around in your seat, or whether you get firm support/feedback through your seat - just sayin'
also, how tippy it feels has a lot to do with how much you slide around in your seat, or whether you get firm support/feedback through your seat - just sayin'
Anyone ever install a harness plug for the wiper wiring where the windshield frame meets the cowl? I'd like to make it much easier to fully remove the windshield when wheeling. The inside of my windshield gets absolutely nasty during the Crawl while laying down on the hood. It also limits visibility at the right front corner. In the event of a flop (please no, not again) it also eliminates the potential for damage to expensive, hard to find parts. I guess I'm looking for a plug to splice into the 4-wire harness. It will need to fit down into the hole in the top of the Cowl that is around 1.25". A Toyota 4-wire plug from an FJ62 is too big. Thanks for the input.
http://www.budbuilt.com/new/cruiser_parts.html
Anybody ever seen these or something like it installed. My corner panels are crap and the DP looks bad too. My fab guy mentioned using these. What do you guys think. I will probably never make my truck pretty so thought this might be cheap way to clean it up a bit.
Having family cage project start next week using the metal tech front that I won at the crawl a few years back. Anybody got any ideas? We are thinking of tying metal tech into middle hoop but redoing the rear part of cage.
Anybody ever seen these or something like it installed. My corner panels are crap and the DP looks bad too. My fab guy mentioned using these. What do you guys think. I will probably never make my truck pretty so thought this might be cheap way to clean it up a bit.
Having family cage project start next week using the metal tech front that I won at the crawl a few years back. Anybody got any ideas? We are thinking of tying metal tech into middle hoop but redoing the rear part of cage.
Those look good, and price is good.
I bought and installed new quarters from CCOT, they were thicker than oem and fit was great. Think price was about the same.
Didn't you follow Kaderabek's repair of the one he got from me? If not, search it up.
It worked great and looks awesome
I do not remember details. I will search.
I don't think you'll go wrong going with BudBuilt.
As for the cage, that's exactly what I did. Got the MT front part of a family cage from SCC. We tied it into the existing main hoop and then fabbed the rear. It's an aftermarket main hoop cut in half and turned sideways. Then we added a support in the rear. Works great with the fold and tumble rear seat and protects everyone. If you want to see what we did, click the 1978 FJ40 link in my signature.
Lash, I would like to know how you know the main hoop won't hold up to much. The reason I ask is because everyone I have talked to said that with it tied in to the rest of the cage it should be fine. I would like some real world feedback without having to roll my truck over. Did you roll yours with just the stock bars in it?
Did you roll yours with just the stock bars in it?
BIBLE.