4.5LV build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Nice job Todd. Looks really good and I know the feeling about getting a "semi" just looking at that beautiful 1FZ-FE.

Will you keep it smog compliant or will you be desmogging it?

This is also a good time to get rid of the metal tube that goes behind the intake manifolds and connects the PHH to the heater valve. Just put one long piece of Gates and call it a day.

I would also do a nice wrap on the wiring harness, while you are there, especially if you are going to be keeping the EGR valve. The metal tube from the back of the head to the EGR valve itself gets very hot during operation--close to 1000 F. You might also want to not route the harness through the intake runners like they did from the factory--you can still get the injector connectors attached to the injectors if you route it differently--i just ran the whole thing underneath the intake manifolds.

Do the fuel filter while you are at it, unless you are going to s*** can it for something else. And the pressure regulartor is a easy swap too while you are at it.

I know you know all of this already, but figured a reminder wouldn't be bad. :lol:

The 1994 harness should work ok, though you will have some extra connectors that won't be used for EFI stuff.

Are you keeping AC?

Nice work as always. Looks like an awesome project.
 
Nice work Gumby! I'm glad I'm not the only one that gets a "semi" just looking at a beautiful 1FZ-FE.
 
Nice job Todd. Looks really good and I know the feeling about getting a "semi" just looking at that beautiful 1FZ-FE.

Will you keep it smog compliant or will you be desmogging it?

I going to try and keep the light off. A 64 is not going to be tested in IL, so I don't have to smog it. I think I will not put in a catalytic and run a downstream O2 emulator. EGR will stay.

This is also a good time to get rid of the metal tube that goes behind the intake manifolds and connects the PHH to the heater valve. Just put one long piece of Gates and call it a day.

Good plan. I was going to see how it fit, but the master will be in the way from the top and the inner fenderwells are probably worse than on the 80.

I would also do a nice wrap on the wiring harness, while you are there, especially if you are going to be keeping the EGR valve. The metal tube from the back of the head to the EGR valve itself gets very hot during operation--close to 1000 F. You might also want to not route the harness through the intake runners like they did from the factory--you can still get the injector connectors attached to the injectors if you route it differently--i just ran the whole thing underneath the intake manifolds.

more good advice. I have some high heat tubing I can use to wrap either the EGR or the harness.

Do the fuel filter while you are at it, unless you are going to s*** can it for something else. And the pressure regulartor is a easy swap too while you are at it.

I know you know all of this already, but figured a reminder wouldn't be bad. :lol:

I shoulda ordered a filter with my last order. I can get it local though. Definately going to put a filter in. Probably one closer to the tank too. Maybe even before the pump. The long range tank is pretty old. I don't want to have to mess with changing the stock filter all the time.

The 1994 harness should work ok, though you will have some extra connectors that won't be used for EFI stuff.

My big concerns are OBDII connectors and the connectors at the ECM.


Are you keeping AC?

I have the stock under dash unit from my 78 FJ55 that will look very nice. The funny part is that the 64 LV didn't even come with heat. I don't have a fresh air intake on the fender. Maybe I can route it to the flip up vent in front of the window.

Nice work as always. Looks like an awesome project.

Thanks!:cheers:
 
Box full of happiness on my porch when I got home.

I think I know where that came from!

;)

On the ECU: I know that there was a supersession of part numbers from the early 1FZ's to the mid-to-later 1FZ's. I just forgot at what point the supersession occurred. It might mean nothing, it might mean the whole thing not working.

I can check when I get to work tomorrow morning, or you can always give CDan a call.
 
Not everything went as planned.

We ran the wires through the intake because not all of the injector plugs would reach.

I'm also going to run the PHH tube for now. It looks really pretty with the new powder coat and I can always pull a fender to replace the hose every 100,000 miles. Neither tube is close to the stock heater hose location for a 45, but then I don't have a stock heater hose location since the 45 was a non-heater truck.

Gotta pull some stuff back apart too. We went ahead and put a lot together even after the timing chain gear broke. :doh: so we could find out what else needed to get ordered.

The worst part was finding the oil sprayer for the timing chain on the bench. The timing cover has to come back off. :mad: We'll clean and recoat some bolt heads while it's apart.

I was hoping to bolt it up to the trans tonight to get an idea of the length and how it's going to fit, but it didn't make sense to pull it off the stand yet.

IMG_0044.jpg


I'll wrap the EGR tube in high heat wrap

IMG_0045.jpg


I don't know why it makes me so happy that the old school TEQ cap fits, but it does.

IMG_0040.jpg
 
The OEM wire harness for the injectors should reach the injectors even if you do not route the harness through the runners.

Try again dude.... ;)

I have a timing gear at my house I can ship out to you if you want it...let me know.

If you are keeping the EGR valve then keeping the metal tube there makes sense for the high heat from the valve pipe to the back of the head.
 
what did it cost on the injectors? I'm gonna need to have a set of 3f injectors done for the shorty45 when I get to that point.
 
Wow that is incredibly cheap on the injectors!! I know that when I got injectors for the 2UZ, they were very expensive!

This is going to be an awesome project! I was really hoping that you would go with the Toyota V8 :-)

What are you going to do for axles?

Ryan.


$24.95 each + $10 return shipping = $159.70
 
This weekend I worked on the new tow rig a bunch, but I found time to paint the frame

I scrubbed it with soap and water. Then hit it with the power washer. Then ran over it with the 4" grinder and flap wheel. Then washed it again with degreaser. Then over it again with wax and grease prep wash.

I bought a frame painting kit from Eastwood Co. That included prep wash, epoxy primer and their ceramic 2K chassis paint. I hit the few rusty spots with the last of my self-etching primer first, then the epoxy and ceramic paint.

The primer covered well since it was a quart of primer plus a quart of activator mixed 1:1. The chassis paint was a quart of paint plus a half pint of activator mixed 4:1. I used every bit of it. there's nothing left for the axles or even touch up.
frame painter.webp
frame.webp
 
I threw the SOA axles back under the frame to move it around while I clean and rebuild the SUA axles. I also want to make sure the 1FZ will clear everything SUA before I do the swap.

We finished the motor yesterday. What a cluster. Gotta bolt the engine to the trans today and give her a test fitting. I have to remember to bring the camera to work.
 
Back
Top Bottom