I would love to do the swap but I don't have the confidence to do it. I am going to read up on it some more...
Meatroaf-
I'd advise having a trusted shop do it. I want to do this swap, too, but there's no way I could manage the fab work, install, and tuning on my own with minimal downtime (my rig's my DD) and my own lack of experience in the matter. I'm comfortable with routine maintenance and waving a soldering iron menacingly at my truck, but there's no way I'd try this on my own.
there's no shame in leaving the swaps to the pros who know what they're doing.
I would go with the 2RZ/3RZ if I were you. Best thing I did to my rig. Cruise 75-80 on the highway all the time. Plenty of power...
Lowride -
Do you have a build thread? I'm planning on a 3RZ swap into my first-gen a few years down the road, and would like all the information I could get.
That said:
I did the math, and decided that a 3RZ is a better bet than a built 22R, because:
- The cost of a firecracker 22R alone would be the cost of a complete 3RZ swap.
- Building a 22R is limiting yourself to 20-to-30 year-old tech, regardless, so you'll still have the shorter end of the stick for support, and more services are available via stealerships if you're on the road, and need a repair,
-Parts avialability will be about the same either way
-3RZ will handle highway speeds better
- the stock W59 is a very very smooth-shifting, fairly stout transmission.
To do the swap, you'll need an entire wire harness - the easiet route is to acquire the complete unit, and cut-and-cap the wires you don't need (IE, I plan on cutting out AC, power windows, ABS, airbags, electronics for 4WD) and lay the entire unit in. The affordable option is to do this yourself, and route all the wires preemtively before the physical swap, or the shop can do it (for about 10-18 hours was the quote I recieved
)
Transmission mounts must be relocated - speaking from a first-gen owner's standpoint, the W59 is HUGE compared to the L-series.
My gut says the motor mounts will have to be changed as well - there's no way on earth Toyota would try and keep the 22R mounts, despite the R designation. (You might as well throw in a 3" body lift and drivetrain lift while you're at it - get yourself a flat belly, there's never a better opportunity than when your truck's guts are out.)
Things I'm stil unsure of:
- Can a Marlin adapter mate the R1AF to the W59?
- What of PS?
- Which side of the truck is the clutch T/O fork on?
- How tall is the 3RZ compared to 22R, will it clear a first-gen hood?
- Why was MST3K cancelled?
Also worth mentioning:
the 2RZ and 3RZ are the same motor from the deck up. The difference is the deck height itself, 2RZ is shorter, and has more of a car-like stroke for 2WD trucks. 3RZ is deeper, has a stoke comparable to the early 22R's deeper stroke, and will have greater compression - but will drive more tractor-like.
