You'll find some good information on tuning and troubleshooting your carb here.
38/38 DGAS vs 32/36DGAS
- Thread starter Boaf 32
- Start date
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agreed - ran one on my Jeep and with larger jets I was able to get it close but it was never optimal. Also, you'll definitely need to get a pressure regulator - they are very sensitive and run at very low pressure
- Thread starter
- #24
All,
Question, does it mater which side of the Weber Carb is the fuel supply side and which is the fuel return to tank side? I am plumbing the return to the tank (or before the fuel pump) and wonder if there is a difference. Also replacing the gaskets under the adapter and between the carb and adapter.
Thanks
Boaf
Question, does it mater which side of the Weber Carb is the fuel supply side and which is the fuel return to tank side? I am plumbing the return to the tank (or before the fuel pump) and wonder if there is a difference. Also replacing the gaskets under the adapter and between the carb and adapter.
Thanks
Boaf
- Thread starter
- #25
I believe I have researched my answer. There is a restrictor on the return that I should be able to see in the Weber.
In checking other connections, I see that the brass connector to the supply side was 1/2 turn loose, so see what happens there. Checked all the other clamps and fuel pump connections, some what loose and tightened. Will drive tomorrow and see how it goes. Always check the easy stuff before any routing of return lines
Will keep you posted my friends.
Boaf
In checking other connections, I see that the brass connector to the supply side was 1/2 turn loose, so see what happens there. Checked all the other clamps and fuel pump connections, some what loose and tightened. Will drive tomorrow and see how it goes. Always check the easy stuff before any routing of return lines
Will keep you posted my friends.Boaf
I'd run an fj60 fuel pump before trying to add a return line to the carb.
- Thread starter
- #27
Hi All,
Update:
Well gents, still have the dieseling after shut off. I am pulling the carb (which is a DGES not a DGAS) and will set baseline adjustments on the bench. Also will confirm that the fuel is going in the correct side, currently supply is on the drivers side (old picture but same supply).
Lastly, will run a fuel return to the tank vent pipe on the filler neck (there is no return connection in the fuel tank). Will keep you posted with Pictures. Also have a fuel pressure gauge with a dial I will consider installing if the run-on is not resolved.
New carb may be an option but last resort. All your support is really appreciated.
Boaf
Update:
Well gents, still have the dieseling after shut off. I am pulling the carb (which is a DGES not a DGAS) and will set baseline adjustments on the bench. Also will confirm that the fuel is going in the correct side, currently supply is on the drivers side (old picture but same supply).
Lastly, will run a fuel return to the tank vent pipe on the filler neck (there is no return connection in the fuel tank). Will keep you posted with Pictures. Also have a fuel pressure gauge with a dial I will consider installing if the run-on is not resolved.
New carb may be an option but last resort. All your support is really appreciated.
Boaf
- Thread starter
- #28
Hi All,
Progress update:
Removed the carb and the plates. No initial sign of a leak, until I pulled off the adapter. On top of the Allen bolt that holds the adapter plate, the bolt closest to the Valve Cover, I had some fuel in the top of the Allen key (Right side of picture 1). No other signs but that should not be there.
Taking this opportunity to re-plumb fuel lines and will add a return line to the fuel tank vent line via brass T connector (since there are no adapters in the actual fuel tank).
Below are photos
Keep you all posted.
Boaf
Progress update:
Removed the carb and the plates. No initial sign of a leak, until I pulled off the adapter. On top of the Allen bolt that holds the adapter plate, the bolt closest to the Valve Cover, I had some fuel in the top of the Allen key (Right side of picture 1). No other signs but that should not be there.
Taking this opportunity to re-plumb fuel lines and will add a return line to the fuel tank vent line via brass T connector (since there are no adapters in the actual fuel tank).
Below are photos
Keep you all posted.
Boaf
those two pc adapters were terrible, if youre going to stick with weber at least get a one pc adapter.
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- Thread starter
- #30
@brian, Not sure what is the difference between new and what I have? Where would the PCV connect? I am assuming it is a single piece of billet aluminum with a PVC connector? Where would I find that? Weber site?
Boaf
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- Thread starter
- #31
All,
Question on the plumbing of the return fuel line to the tank.
The carb is higher than the tank. Does fuel pressure push the fuel back to the tank, or does gravity do the job? Reason for the question I plan on running the return line by the valve cover utilizing the clamps on the outside rear of the cover, and that is pretty much is level or just above level with the carb. That is the only pitch problem I have (with the exception of turning the pipe up to the tank).
Will the fuel flow or do I need to grade the return line like plumbing a waste pipe in a house, with a steep enough pitch?
Boaf.
Question on the plumbing of the return fuel line to the tank.
The carb is higher than the tank. Does fuel pressure push the fuel back to the tank, or does gravity do the job? Reason for the question I plan on running the return line by the valve cover utilizing the clamps on the outside rear of the cover, and that is pretty much is level or just above level with the carb. That is the only pitch problem I have (with the exception of turning the pipe up to the tank).
Will the fuel flow or do I need to grade the return line like plumbing a waste pipe in a house, with a steep enough pitch?
Boaf.
- Thread starter
- #34
Fellow LCers'
Update:
I have routed the return line back to the gas tank. Actually, I do not have a return hole access in the fuel tank, so routed it to the fuel overflow in the fuel filler overflow, so it will go back into the tank. And yes I have added clamps to the lines.
It is flowing and the idle seams much smoother, and I will test drive shortly. I did notice something different and not sure it matters and would like to hear your thoughts.
The fuel supply line has an in line filter and also the Jar filter on top of the Valve cover. I see bubbles in both filters when the car is running, but the engine seams to not be bothered. I will test drive shortly. Is this normal to have bubbles flowing into the filters? Remember, I only had a supply line to my carb, now I also have a return. Any thoughts there?
Thanks,
Boaf
Update:
I have routed the return line back to the gas tank. Actually, I do not have a return hole access in the fuel tank, so routed it to the fuel overflow in the fuel filler overflow, so it will go back into the tank. And yes I have added clamps to the lines.
It is flowing and the idle seams much smoother, and I will test drive shortly. I did notice something different and not sure it matters and would like to hear your thoughts.
The fuel supply line has an in line filter and also the Jar filter on top of the Valve cover. I see bubbles in both filters when the car is running, but the engine seams to not be bothered. I will test drive shortly. Is this normal to have bubbles flowing into the filters? Remember, I only had a supply line to my carb, now I also have a return. Any thoughts there?
Thanks,
Boaf
Sounds like the supply line from the tank is pulling air from somewhere....but you would think it would also dribble gas when not running.
- Thread starter
- #36
Well what a waste of time and sweat equity
Took it for a ride. While I'm driving, it is OK. Come to a light. It fricken stalls. F me.
Here is what it looks like while at idle:
Difficult to see but the fuel filter and bowl are half filled, and bubbles are generated from the fuel coming in.
Is the return not restricted enough? @Coolerman, All Is there a "restricted return" fitting that I should be using? IS the fuel flowing too hast now? I thought I saw a reducer on the one side but I must be fricken wrong. What do you guys think about the MF bubbles?
And the fricken frustration starts all over.
Boaf
Took it for a ride. While I'm driving, it is OK. Come to a light. It fricken stalls. F me.
Here is what it looks like while at idle:
Difficult to see but the fuel filter and bowl are half filled, and bubbles are generated from the fuel coming in.
Is the return not restricted enough? @Coolerman, All Is there a "restricted return" fitting that I should be using? IS the fuel flowing too hast now? I thought I saw a reducer on the one side but I must be fricken wrong. What do you guys think about the MF bubbles?
And the fricken frustration starts all over.
Boaf
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That is a vac advance dizzy … did you unplug the vac line and plug it when advancing the timing? Did you advance the time as mentioned earlier ?
What’s your idle at?
Electric choke or cable?
Two filters are unnecessary
How are you checking the float level in the weber? … there is an easy way to… your not removing the top plate each time are you… grab a piece of solid cardboard cut it to a 1/4ish wide strip 6-7” long… you can slide it in the bowls vent if you have the air cleaner off
In the weber thread somebody posted earlier I have a good pic I made of the float level measurement
What’s your idle at?
Electric choke or cable?
Two filters are unnecessary
How are you checking the float level in the weber? … there is an easy way to… your not removing the top plate each time are you… grab a piece of solid cardboard cut it to a 1/4ish wide strip 6-7” long… you can slide it in the bowls vent if you have the air cleaner off
In the weber thread somebody posted earlier I have a good pic I made of the float level measurement
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- Thread starter
- #38
Yeah thanks Brian. I thought that as well. Why would I see bubbles in the fuel filter and the glass bowl? The fuel filter is before the fuel pump, so would that mean air is coming in before the fuel pump? I can check that tomorrow.
Lastly, I did adjust the supply from the fuel pump to the glass bowl, That may be a source. Ahhhh what a hassle to get rid of dieseling.
Thanks for the thoughts.
Boaf
- Thread starter
- #39
Hi Jonny C
Timing and Dizzy:
Yep removed the Vac line from the dizzy and plugged it when I set the timing on the BB. That blocked vacuum from the carb. Should it be plugged at the distributor? That would be new to me. Let me know. I'll do some research too.
Converted the DGES to a Cable choke, no big deal there, I like the manual.
Idle is 700 steady.
Regarding the float level:
I have never checked the Float level, I did have everything apart and set the float per Weber specs about 5 years ago. And when I first had the truck, did a full carb re-build kit and extract the snapped off fuel adjuster and replace it.
2 filters, yes that is overkill but have had it set up and running that way since I owned the truck since 2015 (OMG that's been a long time). Never had a problem. I think you are on to something with the starving of the fuel level in the carb. So I will look into checking the float level through the carb, I think the real problem may be an air leak somewhere which is starving the carb. This is a new symptom since connecting the return line.
Boaf
No the vac line you did … was correct way … not saying u need to plug the dizzy side as well
Did you try bumping the timing to about 12* as mentioned for you to do earlier?
Did you try bumping the timing to about 12* as mentioned for you to do earlier?