Rubs pretty bad but not on anything that will chew up the truck or the tire.
37's w/ OME 2.5" lift
- Thread starter Wilson
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Rubs pretty bad but not on anything that will chew up the truck or the tire.
37's on a low lift are where it's at man! Very nice fellas. If I could only find a $500 locked 80. I'm probably going to sell my 96 here in Guam and pick up a 91 or 92 cheap when I get to Colorado. There was a locked 93 in Boulder on craiglist about 10 days ago for $3800! Also a 91 for $1800 in Western Colorado. I'll take a semi floater rear if I'm just DDing and wheeling. The 
wants a nice stock 60 now. She's caught the bug too!
wants a nice stock 60 now. She's caught the bug too!I know this is an old thread, but it has a lot of great information.
Anyone have more pictures of guys running 37s on a 2.5"-3" lift?
I'm planning to lift my my 97 with either J springs, or a 3" progressive spring with the Fox 3"-4" shocks. I'd really like to get a good amount of flex. I'd like to run 37" Copper STT Maxx tires on FJ Cruiser wheels. I was wondering if I'll need wheel spacers? And also how much bump stop drop I'll need? These are the style FJ Cruiser wheels I am going with.
Anyone have more pictures of guys running 37s on a 2.5"-3" lift?
I'm planning to lift my my 97 with either J springs, or a 3" progressive spring with the Fox 3"-4" shocks. I'd really like to get a good amount of flex. I'd like to run 37" Copper STT Maxx tires on FJ Cruiser wheels. I was wondering if I'll need wheel spacers? And also how much bump stop drop I'll need? These are the style FJ Cruiser wheels I am going with.
J up front and 860 In the rear. LT345/75R 16 KM2 I am still working on this rig and have not had It off road, you will need 2 Inch bumps In the front and rear and the Fox shocks I'm using are burried so I don't have that either but a pic Is worth a thousand words. She sits level and the Artillery AX 181 wheels have stock backspacing. Many mudders use this spring setup or use 863 In the rear with a 2 Inch spacer up front. I use Metal Tech plates that are designed for the J and I can let go of the wheel In the center lane on the highway on a calm day and she tracks true. This Is a nice setup. Good Luck..!
So overall, you can run 37's on stock rim size with an 2.5'' lift and a 1'' body lift and do pretty well as far as clearance goes? And adding an 1''-1.5'' wheel spacer may help with not rubbing on the frame?
Is it good to run 17 x 9.5 with 4.5'' backspacing?
Is it good to run 17 x 9.5 with 4.5'' backspacing?
I think that running a centered wheel is the best way to fit 37s.
Meaning a:
4.5" BS on a 9"
4" BS on a 8"
3.75" BS on a 7.5"
Meaning a:
4.5" BS on a 9"
4" BS on a 8"
3.75" BS on a 7.5"
So, running an 9.5” wheel with an 4.5” backspacing would be alright? This is the wheel that I will be getting, so I will do what I can do make it fit with 37’s. I appreciate all the info it’s good to know. Having a tacoma in the past have a little experience but all is new. So was thinking of running those wheels with spacers to try and make it work at full lock.
Sounds like you are already set on wheels. Install everything and do whatever needs to be done to make them fit. Easy.
Want to get this conversation going again as I am trying to sort out what springs and tire size to run. Really want to go with a 2-2.5" lift + 37's on my lightly loaded 80.
Sifting through all the threads and it seems folks all say "you have to chop" but they are also the ones running wider wheels + spacers...
I've got a set of 17x9 wheels with 4.5" back spacing on the way. Need to decide on shocks (thinking the longer OME BP51's, @GW Nugget stole this from your faq thread)
Front 5160012: 14.33" - 23.85"
Front 5160014: 15.31" - 25.8"
Rear 5160013: 15.27" - 24.05"
Rear 5160015: 16.25" - 26.02"
Front 5160014: 15.31" - 25.8"
Rear 5160013: 15.27" - 24.05"
Rear 5160015: 16.25" - 26.02"
Is the consensus still that dropping the rear bump stop 2", with a centered wheel, will allow 37's to tuck without hitting fender or frame AND without chopping? Front bumps need to go down as well to prevent rubbing, or just to protect the shock from bottoming?
Really need a 3" lift.... running anything less is not enough up travel.
Remember mine is 2" plus 1" body which is a 3" lift.
Front stock uptravel is 3" plus 3" lift then bump down 2.5" means you have 3.5" of uptravel if fenders are uncut. Start there lift, cut and or move axle forward from there to get more uptravel. The rear needs the inner fender lip rolled in a wee bit & a nip on the flare with 2.5" bumps.
Happy Trails to you...
Remember mine is 2" plus 1" body which is a 3" lift.
Front stock uptravel is 3" plus 3" lift then bump down 2.5" means you have 3.5" of uptravel if fenders are uncut. Start there lift, cut and or move axle forward from there to get more uptravel. The rear needs the inner fender lip rolled in a wee bit & a nip on the flare with 2.5" bumps.
Happy Trails to you...
I am running a 2" lift with an extra 1" spacer in the front and I still rub my 35's....
Unless your in california or Texas you will need more than 2.5" lift to clear 35's.
Unless your in california or Texas you will need more than 2.5" lift to clear 35's.
What wheel width and backspacing are you running?
I am running a 16" wheel with no spacers, I don't know the wheel width or the backspacing. My tires are 315/75/16's, but I am rubbing at the top of my fenders. It wouldn't matter what wheels or backspacing I am running. I would still rub.....
A factory spec 80 series was designed to clear 30" tires. If you want to clear 37" tires you need a minimum of a 3.5" lift. It's simple math.
Unless you live in California. But than your 80 series will give you cancer....
I rubbed all over with 315s also till I bumped down 1.5"
As for stock wheels, the 1.25" wheel spacers fixed the bad rubbing.