35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only)

[TeCKis300]

Here you go. Hopefully I got a pic of what you’re looking for. If not, just let me know. I have full skid plates so mobility was a little tough.

I should’ve put a ruler up to the spacer but didn’t think about it until now. I’ll take one tomorrow when the sun is out.

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Thanks! Those are helpful and it does give some clues. Looks like they'll using a healthy wheel spacer and if I had to guess, it's a 1.5" unit. Combined with the +50mm RW offset, would have net offset at 12mm. Combined with some alignment tricks with SPC UCAs. A possible strategy their using to keep off the KDSS bar. The KDSS bar looks to be at stock geometry (no relocation bracket?)

Mind taking some pics of the following:
1. Body mount (just aft of the front tire). Here's mine with the beginnings of a Body Mount Chop (BMC)

2. KDSS/Sway bar relocation. Here's what a KDSS relocation bracket looks like

3. Picture down the side of the car to get a sense of how much offset/poke you have

 

[PhillipPinot]

Thanks! Those are helpful and it does give some clues. Looks like they'll using a healthy wheel spacer and if I had to guess, it's a 1.5" unit. Combined with the +50mm RW offset, would have net offset at 12mm. Combined with some alignment tricks with SPC UCAs. A possible strategy their using to keep off the KDSS bar. The KDSS bar looks to be at stock geometry (no relocation bracket?)

Mind taking some pics of the following:
1. Body mount (just aft of the front tire). Here's mine with the beginnings of a Body Mount Chop (BMC)
View attachment 3983807

2. KDSS/Sway bar relocation. Here's what a KDSS relocation bracket looks like
View attachment 3983808

3. Picture down the side of the car to get a sense of how much offset/poke you have

Will do!

 

[PhillipPinot]

Thanks! Those are helpful and it does give some clues. Looks like they'll using a healthy wheel spacer and if I had to guess, it's a 1.5" unit. Combined with the +50mm RW offset, would have net offset at 12mm. Combined with some alignment tricks with SPC UCAs. A possible strategy their using to keep off the KDSS bar. The KDSS bar looks to be at stock geometry (no relocation bracket?)

Mind taking some pics of the following:
1. Body mount (just aft of the front tire). Here's mine with the beginnings of a Body Mount Chop (BMC)
View attachment 3983807

2. KDSS/Sway bar relocation. Here's what a KDSS relocation bracket looks like
View attachment 3983808

3. Picture down the side of the car to get a sense of how much offset/poke you have

1) Body mount (just aft of the front tire). Here's mine with the beginnings of a Body Mount Chop (BMC)

2) KDSS/Sway bar relocation. Here's what a KDSS relocation bracket looks like
- im gonna need some more direction on where this is at.

3) Picture down the side of the car to get a sense of how much offset/poke you have

 

[PhillipPinot]

Also here is the spacer measurement

 

[TeCKis300]

1) Body mount (just aft of the front tire). Here's mine with the beginnings of a Body Mount Chop (BMC)
View attachment 3984440
View attachment 3984441

2) KDSS/Sway bar relocation. Here's what a KDSS relocation bracket looks like
- im gonna need some more direction on where this is at.

3) Picture down the side of the car to get a sense of how much offset/poke you have
View attachment 3984443
View attachment 3984444

Cool. Thanks for the detail pics and it confirms the strategy their using which is to push everything out away from any conflict with the KDSS system.

Hard to tell but that looks like a healthy 2" spacer. Net offset of +0. The side profile confirms that. They're taking an aggressive BMC cut (which is fine), to account for tire swing. The front bumper helps too as that removes swing issues towards the front.

If there's one thing I'll caution, you'll want to watch the fender for any real hardcore off-roading or Baja running. The tire will catch both front and rear fenders. There's a couple strategies to deal with that: 1) Cut / roll the fenders. Or limit uptravel. Or both.

Happy cruising!

 

[Tennessee80]

Hey folks.... what about a 35x11.5x17? I'm running Rock Warrior wheels with 1.25" spacer and 285/75/17. I like the size, but the tires are about 6 months out from needing to be replaced. Would a narrower 35 be better? The 285/75/17 is 11.5" right?

 

[linuxgod]

Hey folks.... what about a 35x11.5x17? I'm running Rock Warrior wheels with 1.25" spacer and 285/75/17. I like the size, but the tires are about 6 months out from needing to be replaced. Would a narrower 35 be better? The 285/75/17 is 11.5" right?

I run Falken Wildpeak RT01's in that exact size. I have +25 offset wheels. You're about +18 or +19 offset on your setup.

If your 34s fit without rubbing, then in my experience the only additional change you need is the KDSS relocation kit. (If you can get 1" spacers I might suggest that, but if you're clearing the rear fenders on full bump stop right now you'll likely be fine.)

 

[Tennessee80]

I run Falken Wildpeak RT01's in that exact size. I have +25 offset wheels. You're about +18 or +19 offset on your setup.

If your 34s fit without rubbing, then in my experience the only additional change you need is the KDSS relocation kit. (If you can get 1" spacers I might suggest that, but if you're clearing the rear fenders on full bump stop right now you'll likely be fine.)

Do you have any pics of your truck with that tire on it?

 

[linuxgod]

Do you have any pics of your truck with that tire on it?

Do I!

If there’s something specific you want just LMK

 

[Tennessee80]

Do I!

If there’s something specific you want just LMK

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Beautiful rig dude

 

[linuxgod]

Beautiful rig dude

Thanks. The dirt hides the rust on the bumpers and sliders well

 

[linuxgod]

if you need any info on KDSS relo and mounting the sway bar end links outside the cradle, lmk. It is the way for rubless 35s

 

[Tennessee80]

if you need any info on KDSS relo and mounting the sway bar end links outside the cradle, lmk. It is the way for rubless 35s

I'm going to certainly go down that path. I like the 35x11.5 and it seems to be an easier tire to run than 12.5. But, I have a bit of time left on these 285s so I want to do it right

 

[linuxgod]

I'm going to certainly go down that path. I like the 35x11.5 and it seems to be an easier tire to run than 12.5. But, I have a bit of time left on these 285s so I want to do it right

I went with the 35x11.5 for the same reason. It’s the factory width and I was already running 34x11.5 on +25 without rubbing once I did the KDSS relo. The extra 1/2” of tread clears my KDSS arm fine. No contact anywhere up front, full lock doing a hard and fast uturn doesn’t touch anything.

I’ve run the setup hard on trails crossed up and fully extended or compressed, hitting bump stops especially when towing, etc. The only contact I get is the slightest run on the rear mud flaps at full bump stop… something I can’t hear or feel, but can see a silver dollar sized spot where some dirt is wiped off. No biggie.

 

[ElJayBird]

I’ve run the setup hard on trails crossed up and fully extended or compressed, hitting bump stops especially when towing, etc. The only contact I get is the slightest run on the rear mud flaps at full bump stop… something I can’t hear or feel, but can see a silver dollar sized spot where some dirt is wiped off. No biggie.

Which bump stops did you go with?

 

[linuxgod]

Which bump stops did you go with?

Slee recommended the durobumps. They don’t decrease the travel but they do help soften the harder hits. Especially in the rear when I have the trailer I’ve had some hits which fully compressed them

 

[Tennessee80]

I went with the 35x11.5 for the same reason. It’s the factory width and I was already running 34x11.5 on +25 without rubbing once I did the KDSS relo. The extra 1/2” of tread clears my KDSS arm fine. No contact anywhere up front, full lock doing a hard and fast uturn doesn’t touch anything.

I’ve run the setup hard on trails crossed up and fully extended or compressed, hitting bump stops especially when towing, etc. The only contact I get is the slightest run on the rear mud flaps at full bump stop… something I can’t hear or feel, but can see a silver dollar sized spot where some dirt is wiped off. No biggie.

You have me sold on these…!

 

[Dersertrover512]

Toyo RT pros! I didn’t think I would ever change from Toyo MTs. These hybrids are amazing!

 

[Tennessee80]

I went with the 35x11.5 for the same reason. It’s the factory width and I was already running 34x11.5 on +25 without rubbing once I did the KDSS relo. The extra 1/2” of tread clears my KDSS arm fine. No contact anywhere up front, full lock doing a hard and fast uturn doesn’t touch anything.

I’ve run the setup hard on trails crossed up and fully extended or compressed, hitting bump stops especially when towing, etc. The only contact I get is the slightest run on the rear mud flaps at full bump stop… something I can’t hear or feel, but can see a silver dollar sized spot where some dirt is wiped off. No biggie.

What KDSS relocation kit would you recommend?

 

[linuxgod]

What KDSS relocation kit would you recommend?

If you’re willing to drop the $ this is the way to go with the 1.5” bracket (if you have an aftermarket front bumper).

KDSS MAX Relocation Kit With LCA Skid Plates -Stock and Aftermarket Bu

KDSS Max kits are in stock The Anderson Overland Land Cruiser 200 Series Full Front KDSS MAX relocation full kit for high Clearance bumpers. The Only KDSS Relocation kit that moves the KDSS sway bar forward to the maximum allowable position and positions the lower KDSS end link outside of the...

andersonoverlandoutfitters.com

the standard 1” kits from Slee or trail tailor work but unless you relocate your end links outside the cradle they will tweak the bushings pretty hard. I did not run with the 1” kit

If you use the 1” you can do the sway bar end link relo yourself for under $100, it just takes some effort to source the bits.

If you decide you want to do the 1” kit I have my old one from trail tailor and would be happy to sell it cheap.