2UZ-FE to H55F Bellhousing Adapter Kit Now Available!!!

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

It's has been on their website.

2UZ-FE to H55F Adapter Kit

40 Series Land Cruisers originally equipped with an H55F2UZ-FE → H55F Adapter Kit - The Cleanest Way to Install Toyota V8 Power Into a Classic Land Cruiser This adapter kit allows the legendary Toyota 2UZ-FE V8 to bolt directly to the Toyota H55F 5-speed transmission while retaining Toyota's...

overlandcruisersmt.com

 

[bagochips76]

What makes more sense? (actual question, not just me being a butthole)

Re-flashing the original computer, and tweaking the harness?
Or, just going with a complete standalone unit like a Haltech?

I would think tuning, the Haltech or similar would be the way to go. Plus you'd have some flexibility on sourcing parts, like a MAF or Oxygen sensors. You could use something super common for an LS, versus the way less common Toyota units.

Sorry for the delayed response. We took the week for Cruise Moab and just returned.

Regarding the Haltech option vs factory harness/ECU, there are pros and cons to both...

Factory Harness/ECU rework

- Pros

• Lower cost ($1,200ish vs $2,600–$3,500)
• Factory Toyota tune — excellent naturally aspirated drivability out of the box
• Plug and play once delivered; note there is some wiring that is needed to integrate into the truck but it is simple.
• VVT-i, cold start, idle all factory sorted
• Less complexity — no custom harness building
• No tuner needed

- Cons

• No ability to retune if you modify the engine later
• Less flexibility if something goes wrong in a remote location

Haltech
- Pros

• Full tunability — can accommodate future mods
• Tuner can adjust for altitude, fuel quality, etc.
• Large support community and documentation
• More diagnostic capability in the field
• Future proof if you ever boost or cam it

- Cons

• Roughly double the cost
• Requires building a custom harness
• Needs a qualified Haltech tuner
• More complexity to install and set up
• Overkill for a stock N/A build
• Factory tune quality is hard to match for streetability

At the end of the day, there is more than one way to skin a cat and each individual build, budget and time will dictate which route is the best way to go.

 

[bagochips76]

This looks really cool and I can’t wait to try it on a project.
Why is a crossmember required for a regular H42-equipped FJ40?
Is there clearance for a 60/80 power steering conversion with this ?

Thanks! Its a great set up!

If you are going to keep the factory H42 in a 40 then there is no real need for a transmission crossmember as you can use the bellhousing frame mounts. If installing an H55 then yes it needs a crossmember. Due to the shorter overall length of the 2UZ, you can move the whole assembly forward which allows the non 40 tophat H55 to come through the factory transmission hump hole, thus no modification to the trans hump. This also allows for more room for an adequate length rear driveshaft and you don't have to relocate the midship frame crossmemeber.

Yes there is room for 60/80 power steering conversion...that's what we did on our 40.

 

[bagochips76]

So, can I put a H55 in a 100 series??

Seriously though, this is an awesome product!! Great job!

You can if you want but...it would be a pain in the ass. I'd through an H152 in a hundy!

Thanks for the kudos! Much appreciated!

 

[bagochips76]

This is a very innovative solution!!!! I have been cobbling together a 1UZ to H55 solution using the Dellow bellhousing etc. This solution is soooo much more straightforward

Do you recommend any specific flywheel (heavier than stock, stock?), and clutch (heavy duty, factory 2f?) for V8 drivability as well as durability of the clutch? Yes, I saw the notes above. (Just making sure because a 3uzfe is max torque of 325 ft-lb)

Lot's of questions....I can always call your shop to discuss.

Thanks! It's very straightforward, the parts are easy to source and the fabrication is minimized. Based on my testing the stock 2F flywheel and clutch works great and is plenty for the applications that we have utilized. 325 ft/lbs is only 10 more than a 2uz so shouldn't be an issue. Additionally, we have done conversions with Cummins R2.8s with an adapter based on the the same concept and stock 2F clutches have held up great even with the ones tuned to 400 ft/lbs.

 

[bagochips76]

Two other questions:
1. Is the engine pictured a front, mid, or rear oil sump configuration? Need to clear the axle when the suspension is fully articulated.
2. Did you sell out of the first production run? I don't need one today but would be interested to get on the wait list for the next production run.

The engine pictured is a rear sump out of a 100. That drivetrain went into our 40 build. The 60 build that we did utilized a VVTI out of a Sequoia. We had to change out the upper and lower pans to 100 series components to make it a rear sump set up.

I have one left from the current run. Based on the amount of demand, I will do another production run and will likely do those as pre-orders with half down as the deposit.

 

[bagochips76]

Do you have a measurement from the center of the shifter location, to the back of the block? Where the adaptor plate bolts to?
Highlighted in pic.
Here’s an H150F for reference

View attachment 4126216

View attachment 4126220

I don't have that measurement available as I don't have a built drivetrain outside of a truck. What is your concern regarding that measurement? Perhaps. I can address it.

 

[bagochips76]

THIS is really cool! @bagochips76 will this be listed on your overlandcruiser website when its ready? This is really epic for 40/50/60 series guys looking to NOT swap in a vortec or sbc and keeping things all toyota under that hood!

Its on the website now! 2UZ-FE to H55F Adapter Kit - https://overlandcruisersmt.com/products/2uz-fe-to-h55f-adapter-kit-the-cleanest-way-to-install-toyota-v8-power-into-a-classic-land-cruiser

 

[sogncab]

At the end of the day, there is more than one way to skin a cat and each individual build, budget and time will dictate which route is the best way to go.

I appreciate the response.

I ask, because I've got this dumb idea in my head to buy an 80 with the carbureted 1FZ, then convert it back to fuel injection using something other than Toyota for engine management. Big drivers being the 1FZ is really detuned, and some of the sensors becoming hard to come by. Starting with a Saudi 80, I don't think there's any emissions stuff on them, or very little, that will have to be dealt with either. I'd assume the wiring harness would be much simpler as well.

Whereas if you loose, smash, damage or have an O2 sensor fail, if you start with a generic GM one, you can find those about anywhere if you're in a bind. I'd think that'd hold true for other things as well.

There's other reasons for wanting a Saudi 80. I borderline hate the AWD, the hatch/tailgate setup, and automatical transmissions. I almost pulled the trigger on one a couple of months. Wish I had, glad I didn't.

Thanks again!

 

[bagochips76]

So we just returned from Cruise Moab and we took both the 40 and the 60 down there. We trailered the 40 (for obvious reasons) and I drove the 60. They both performed incredibly well! The 40 is geared with 4.10s on 33s and it is a blast to wheel! The 60 with 3.70s and 33s is a ton of fun to wheel as well and it is quite impressive on the highway getting 18.5 mpg and a range of about 375 miles. We were in a convoy and speeds where between 70 and 75 mph (about 2350 rpm) most of the trip. There were times when I would make a pass at 85 mph.

 

[bagochips76]

I appreciate the response.

I ask, because I've got this dumb idea in my head to buy an 80 with the carbureted 1FZ, then convert it back to fuel injection using something other than Toyota for engine management. Big drivers being the 1FZ is really detuned, and some of the sensors becoming hard to come by. Starting with a Saudi 80, I don't think there's any emissions stuff on them, or very little, that will have to be dealt with either. I'd assume the wiring harness would be much simpler as well.

Whereas if you loose, smash, damage or have an O2 sensor fail, if you start with a generic GM one, you can find those about anywhere if you're in a bind. I'd think that'd hold true for other things as well.

There's other reasons for wanting a Saudi 80. I borderline hate the AWD, the hatch/tailgate setup, and automatical transmissions. I almost pulled the trigger on one a couple of months. Wish I had, glad I didn't.

Thanks again!

You bet! One of the reasons why I developed the conversion was due to the fact that I did not want ANY GM parts involved. There are plenty of great GM/LS swaps out there and we have even done some, but at the end of the day I am a Toyota guy and I have always wanted a completely Toyota V8/H55F swap.

 

[cruisermatt]

thanks for answering my question, I incorrectly assumed you were shooting for the same engine placement every time with this, I totally understanding moving everything forwards to use a 60 series transmission housing.

Will there be engine mount kits for 40 /60 series coming as well?

 

[bagochips76]

thanks for answering my question, I incorrectly assumed you were shooting for the same engine placement every time with this, I totally understanding moving everything forwards to use a 60 series transmission housing.

Will there be engine mount kits for 40 /60 series coming as well?

Of course! Mounts for both are designed and tested and will be available for purchase in the near future.

 

[Meshal]

Nice work! Impressive.

How hard to to do one for the 1UR 3UR?

 

[bagochips76]

Nice work! Impressive.

How hard to to do one for the 1UR 3UR?

No more difficult than 2uz! I have already given it some consideration.

 

[sadovnik]

a 3UR on an FJ60 !!! The power of an LS3 (almost) and the reliability of a Toyota V8. A match made in automotive heaven.

 

[Lead Head]

The engine pictured is a rear sump out of a 100. That drivetrain went into our 40 build. The 60 build that we did utilized a VVTI out of a Sequoia. We had to change out the upper and lower pans to 100 series components to make it a rear sump set up.

I have one left from the current run. Based on the amount of demand, I will do another production run and will likely do those as pre-orders with half down as the deposit.

There is also the SC400 oil pan (harder to find), which is the "most rearward" factory oil pan for the UZ engines, I believe. There are also a number of aftermarket steel pans available these days, although they're spendy.