2UZ-FE High Long Term Fuel Trims

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I looked through records and the throttle body was cleaned 2 years back. I also seem to recall seeing my last mechanic remove the intake manifold for something while he was investigating the lean condition, but not sure why - I was less familiar with terminology then so its hard to remember.

I will do another vacuum leak test.
Is there any harm in removing the hose between the PCV valve and the throttle body and blocking that on the intake side while idling too to observe changes in AFR?
I'm also guessing a busted pcv valve (open) would not be easy to find a vacuum leak with propane from but still cause a lean condition, and from my understanding the pcv valve and that whole line is responsible for producing the vacuum for the port on the air cleaner hose. so I want to follow that line of investigation too.

I suspect the PCV valve has never been replaced, and its service life is about the same as the point where my uncle got the car and knew it was always thirsty from day one - 80,000 kms. I've ordered one and a set of hoses for it.
T-body cleaning would not require, removing T-body or the wire housing. For sure not the boot.

When R&R intake manifold (IM):
  1. I spend a lot of time, cleaning top of engine. That is so dust/sand doesn't fall into intake ports of head. Which can damaged cylinder walls and rings, even valves and seats. A compression/engine killer.
  2. I clean surfaces, where head and IM mate. Also the gasket seat/chanel on the VVTi.
  3. I bend the engine hoist hooks back outward a bit. This gives, a little more room in the very tight area, IM must pass through.
  4. If I even tap the IM gasket on any surface, while dropping in IM. I pull IM back out, to inspect the gasket for breaks (very common if hit).
  5. I sung bolt in a pattern to insure even pressure on gasket as I do. Then torque to 13ft-lbf in pattern, also.
PCV valve on these, are never a vacuum leak concern after 2002 in USA model. Which thread in, as opposed to rubber grommet in earlier 4.7L (98-02).
PCV valves can become clogged. This then results in excessive crankcase pressure and oil leaks. Which can, reduce air flow into IM. This results in slight rich fuel mixture condition.
PCV hoses (DS & PS), do yield very bad vacuum leaks. If cracked or just not tight on nipples.
 
The machine definitely has unknown history prior to 80,000 - I don't have receipts for work done, just entries in the book. But I spoke to all mechanics I could and none of them say they would have removed the throttle body, but even if they did they might not want to admit it either. Its totally possible there is damage to a gasket if its been removed, I'm not sure how to rule it out if propane test doesn't show it.
One of the problems doing propane tests is that massive radiator fan - how do people stop the turbulence of that affecting a propane test? Put a piece of cradboard there to try and use it as a shield?
 
Shield or You can stop the fan/clutch, while engine running about 2 minutes after cold start. It should not lock-up again, until ECT over normal operating temp.

 
Still no luck finding vacuum leaks with propane. I think I want to get a smoke machine and see what it reveals. I've seen tim's channel do a vid on this on an 80 series. Any pointers or risks with doing this? it looks pretty straight forward, and I just need to be careful to get a machine limited to 1 psi I believe, use baby oil, and keep it clear of the MAF sensor. If we can be 100% sure theres no visible vacuum leaks with this test it will eliminate a lot of possible contributors.
 
If no RPM change with propane, this second time. Then 98% chance no vacuum leak at/on engine. You could plug the EVAP VSV & its hose, to see if leak between engine and fuel tank/charcoal canister. But I would expect to see, an EVAP DTC (code), if a leak in that line.

2% chance, vacuum leak not near engine. But there is a small possibly from EVAP:

Remove, one end of short hose from the VSV side. By releasing this clamp (red arrow) and lightly rotating hose back and forth, until frees up. Plug VSV nipple hose came off and hose. See if fuel trims change. This hose, will need to be sung and crack free, when you reinstall for normal operation.
Intake oil gunk (2).jpg


2% chance MAF sensor weak or wonky. But as I said before. Usually results in Rich Mixture. They also usually will set off a DTC. I do see some improvement replacing these old MAF sensor, even when they test good. Note: Always disconnect battery negative post clamp, before touching MAF or it's wire harness.

All above good, Then 90% fuel restriction issue:

No vacuum leak. Then 90% fuel restriction issue.

Fuel filter can be removed, and back flushed to see what comes out. A very dirty filter, will reduce fuel follow, as this one did.
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As we've talked about. We also need a fuel pressure test done. If fuel PSI below 38PSI, then fuel restriction. This can be filter, fuel pump, fuel line pinch, electrical current (too little voltage to fuel pump), electronic control or combination.
 
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I will do the VSV line test tomorrow again and plug it (but I recall no change last time I did this.)
I have AFR and o2 sensors coming, smoke machine and fuel pressure gauge all on their way, I need to save a bit before firing more parts at it but will do the MAF soon. I bought the Autoline pro smoke machine because I want high certainty I'm not missing the obvious.

I had an interesting event today - We threw P0174 code. Drove a few hundred k's today, it was hot (30C) and very humid, and we had a fair bit of idling at shops with air con on, and freezer running off the redarc go block - thats usually running when we go away anyway. First time I caught this DTC with a scangauge and bluedriver. LTFT on bank 2 went all the way up to 37.5-40. Never seen it that high in measurements so far, but judging from the code and its history (I had no idea what code before since had no tools) this has probably happened about 5 times in the past 1-2 years since I owned it.
Turning the car on and off again did nothing to reset the fuel trims. Clearing all the codes with scangauge and bluedriver also did nothing to the fuel trims at idle. Only disconnecting the battery dropped it off a bit, but it was still high at 34 on LTFT Bank 2.

So what is a bit weird about this event and the others is that it seems somewhat stateful - something that can be reset somewhat at least to reduce sever effects. Perhaps if this is a vacuum leak, or a bad sensor we are seeing heat soak increase the effects of that. Perhaps it could be MAF or air temperature sensor and heat soak exacerbating it.

I also can see on my bluedriver log recording the LTFT sensor has these intermittent drop outs in the graph that look out of range (-86.7 see attached). Not sure if its a bluedriver software glitch or something worse. Do you get that too @2001LC ?

Look at the images before this video (its boring)


Heres scangauge just after I got the code:

View recent photos.jpeg


This is after disconnecting the battery and I'm idling on a barge going across the water to get home

Screenshot 2025-02-10 at 7.20.44 pm.png


Heres a snapshot of LTFT values going out of range. not sure if bank 1 does this, need to check again. EDIT: I checked and all fuel trims do this for me with bluedriver, so I don't know if its the software glitching out.

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Attachments

I will do the VSV line test tomorrow again and plug it (but I recall no change last time I did this.)
I have AFR and o2 sensors coming, smoke machine and fuel pressure gauge all on their way, I need to save a bit before firing more parts at it but will do the MAF soon. I bought the Autoline pro smoke machine because I want high certainty I'm not missing the obvious.

I had an interesting event today - We threw P0174 code. Drove a few hundred k's today, it was hot (30C) and very humid, and we had a fair bit of idling at shops with air con on, and freezer running off the redarc go block - thats usually running when we go away anyway. First time I caught this DTC with a scangauge and bluedriver. LTFT on bank 2 went all the way up to 37.5-40. Never seen it that high in measurements so far, but judging from the code and its history (I had no idea what code before since had no tools) this has probably happened about 5 times in the past 1-2 years since I owned it.
Turning the car on and off again did nothing to reset the fuel trims. Clearing all the codes with scangauge and bluedriver also did nothing to the fuel trims at idle. Only disconnecting the battery dropped it off a bit, but it was still high at 34 on LTFT Bank 2.

So what is a bit weird about this event and the others is that it seems somewhat stateful - something that can be reset somewhat at least to reduce sever effects. Perhaps if this is a vacuum leak, or a bad sensor we are seeing heat soak increase the effects of that. Perhaps it could be MAF or air temperature sensor and heat soak exacerbating it.

I also can see on my bluedriver log recording the LTFT sensor has these intermittent drop outs in the graph that look out of range (-86.7 see attached). Not sure if its a bluedriver software glitch or something worse. Do you get that too @2001LC ?

Look at the images before this video (its boring)


Heres scangauge just after I got the code:

View attachment 3835591

This is after disconnecting the battery and I'm idling on a barge going across the water to get home

View attachment 3835592

Heres a snapshot of LTFT values going out of range. not sure if bank 1 does this, need to check again. EDIT: I checked and all fuel trims do this for me with bluedriver, so I don't know if its the software glitching out.

View attachment 3835594

First, do not prolong ideal. Read your owner's manual. This loads up A/Fs, O2s and CATs. You have some compression issue (Not well defined as to why), that will loads these with gunk more so than if no compression issues.
Second. Bluedriver warns, no more than 5 data points. We get over 5, we see glitches. Review logs, you see the -85% LTFT2, likely a momentary blip/glitch.
Third, forget LAMBDA, A/f and o2 for now. Get them off the monitor of bluedriver. Group: LTFT1 & STFT1, LTFT2 & STFT2. add ECT & RPM. It is over the 5, but needed. I also like MPH, in those I may eliminate STFT1 & 2


So condition worsen to point of BK2 lean DTC (lean code) P0174.

I suspect "fuel boiling" is part of your issue with fuel trims. Which when happens, damaged charcoal canisters. You likely smell fumes around rear of vehicle. I'm assuming your CC is above spare tire, as in 03-07 U.S. 100 series. When these boil fuel, they do for sure.

I'm looking into the possibility. That with a CC that's contaminated/clog, we may get EVAP vapor hose (EVAP hose on BK1 VSV) with an increase in pressure. This could force air under pressure into intake manifold. As such, be much like a vacuum leak. Resulting in lean condition. I already, suggested you disconnect the hose off BK1 EVAP VSV and plug VSV air intake. To see if fuel trims improve. Which is so, could point to a leak down stream. It could also, be increased fuel tank pressure due to a clog.

The gas cap area looking dirty/mucky/gunky. Is a sign of clogged CC and fuel boiling out gas cap. Both of these CC, where contaminated. One (220K mile) for sure was from overfilling gas tank. The 24K we speculated the cause the same. 03-07 100 series OM, clear states: Do not overfill gas tank (add more gas after pump handle auto shut off). Doing so will damaged CC.

24K miles CC was ~1 1/2 lb overweight.
IMG_3588.JPEG

220K mile, CC was about 1 1/2lb over wieght.
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Never seen fuel boiling out the side of the vehicle, but I have definitely overfilled my tank many times before I knew any better and who knows before me.

I did a test to block the purge valve. This only account for +-1.5% or so, and is symmetrical for both banks. My fuel trim issue is bad on both banks, and severe on bank 2. It did appear when blocked, that it was richer (STFT went further negative) than when unblocked (STFT went further positive). I would expect this mix of fuel vapour and air to be slightly rich when unblocked but I have no baseline to measure off.

Would it be fair to say any EVAP issues we could regard as negligable? Because here be dragons perhaps that I’d like to be able to disregard...
one charcoal canister is located behind drivers side mounted to the chassis in front of the tank. The other which is supposed to be fitted with the longranger fuel tank in the rear quarter panel I cannot see, so its possible that’s never been fitted, and the fuel tank is oversized for the single canister.

Here is an example of whats typical positive pressure whenever I open the cap for my 273L tank after a few hours on a warm day -
Not sure if that amount of pressure is problematic, let me know your opinion.
There is some gunk around the fuel cap, its been cleaned we can tell.

If there is a blockage in the charcoal canister, why would that make the system leaner by a few percent? Shouldn’t we just have vacuum if that was the case?

I've done tests with and without the fuel cap and it has made no difference too. Only theory there is if it is higher pressure than normal, it could perhaps cause cavitation for the fuel pump or something like that I wonder, it may have permanently damaged the fuel pump. Still waiting on my fuel pressure gauge.

In any case, if theres some issues here in the EVAP system, I hope we can possibly disregard them for now as they don't appear to contribute significantly to the fuel trims, but perhaps something for preventative maintenance in the future if you think my observations are correct.

I’ve read the manual and I know idling isn’t good but its not like that often and when its really hot occasionally its gotta be done or my dog would not survive.
 
Never seen fuel boiling out the side of the vehicle, but I have definitely overfilled my tank many times before I knew any better and who knows before me.

I did a test to block the purge valve. This only account for +-1.5% or so, and is symmetrical for both banks. My fuel trim issue is bad on both banks, and severe on bank 2. It did appear when blocked, that it was richer (STFT went further negative) than when unblocked (STFT went further positive). I would expect this mix of fuel vapour and air to be slightly rich when unblocked but I have no baseline to measure off.

Would it be fair to say any EVAP issues we could regard as negligable? Because here be dragons perhaps that I’d like to be able to disregard...
one charcoal canister is located behind drivers side mounted to the chassis in front of the tank. The other which is supposed to be fitted with the longranger fuel tank in the rear quarter panel I cannot see, so its possible that’s never been fitted, and the fuel tank is oversized for the single canister.

Here is an example of whats typical positive pressure whenever I open the cap for my 273L tank after a few hours on a warm day -
Not sure if that amount of pressure is problematic, let me know your opinion.
There is some gunk around the fuel cap, its been cleaned we can tell.

If there is a blockage in the charcoal canister, why would that make the system leaner by a few percent? Shouldn’t we just have vacuum if that was the case?

I've done tests with and without the fuel cap and it has made no difference too. Only theory there is if it is higher pressure than normal, it could perhaps cause cavitation for the fuel pump or something like that I wonder, it may have permanently damaged the fuel pump. Still waiting on my fuel pressure gauge.

In any case, if theres some issues here in the EVAP system, I hope we can possibly disregard them for now as they don't appear to contribute significantly to the fuel trims, but perhaps something for preventative maintenance in the future if you think my observations are correct.

I’ve read the manual and I know idling isn’t good but its not like that often and when its really hot occasionally its gotta be done or my dog would not survive.

Disconnect EVAP and plugging inlet of vapor (VSV) to intake manifold. Your, fuel mixture, became leaner (STFT negative). Indicating no vacuum leak in EVAP at time/idling.

STFT, is current engine fuel mixture, expressed as a percentage. It is what air to fuel mixtures is. Unlike LTFT, which is what ECM is doing to correct, to get STFT to baseline near 0%.

If you did indeed, plug the air inlet side of EVAP VSV (Evaporative Emission Control, and VSV stands for Vacuum Switching Valve). This kept, any engine vacuum from from sucking air into/entering intake manifold through VSV. You reduced fuel vapors from air intake (less fuel in mixture). Had you had a vacuum leak in EVAP line coming to engine. Disconnect hose and plugging inlet of VSV. Would have stop, the vacuum leak. STFT would have gone positive (rich). So it does not look like a vacuum leak from EVAP system going to engine intake.

Gas cap sound to me like, opening it, tank suck in air. Which is vacuum in tank. Was it?

I do see some muck in gas cap area, but most cleaned away. The cap letter I couldn't see hardly any, but I barely got a glimpse. Cap did look a bit nasty. Excessive fuel vapors, indicates pressure build up. This is most often caused by a clogged charcoal canister. Which on hot days get even worst.


__________

I replaced a CC in and 07LC with only 24K miles on last week. No DTC (codes) just suspect clogged CC, for few reasons. Failed emission test in 2022, with report OAT for day high of 92F. Gas cap area and inside cap curdy/mucky and cap letter mostly gone. Idling a running "a tad" rough.

I check weight of new CC, and old CC as they come out. Anything above weight of new, is saturation in charcoal. Worst I even found was 25os overweight.
This one was 22.6oz overweight. All I found with overweight, had no EVAP DTC (code). All had engine running issues. The worst is alway when climbing high altitude mountain passes. But at ~25oz over, even city driving on warmer days, engine barely ran, when stop at a red light in D it would even stall. FT where not as lean as your, but lean. They did improve.

Number one cause is over filling fuel tank, at pump. But just filling with cold gas on hot day, and parking. Fuel may expand into CC. Ascending a rock pass, same results. CC in back near gas tank and nears same level is a poor design.

I'm not saying you CC, is cause of your lean condition. But you now check all possible vacuum leaks. This points to fuel restriction. It is possible a ECM issues, but those are less likely IMHO. So, a fuel pressure test and some kind of flow test is in order now.

It is looking likely related to CC and fuel tank configuration. Which CC do, tend to act up even more on hot days.

Your, one bank more lean than other (LTFT high). Very likely, compression balance variation from cylinder to cylinder and BK1 vs BK2.
Could also have some fuel injector, variation of fuel volume and spray pattern.

This 07LC w/24K Charcoal Canister (CC), was saturated at 22.6oz overweight.
Notice most letter on cap gone. Cap area mucky/crudy. Sure sign of a fuel take excessive pressure from clogged CC.
IMG_3588.webp

Looking in fuel fill tube.
Image_2025-01-26 18_59_28_213.webp

Just pass the two air vent holes, just a little deeper in fill tube. If tube relief tube to/from tank.
Relefe tube to form tank.webp

Travelling further down into fill tube
Image_2025-01-26 19_01_39_661.webp

Fuel filter backflush
IMG_3688.webp

IMG_3690.webp



P/N for Charcoal Canister in the US 100 series 06-07 is; 77706-60030, new weight is ~88oz (US standard weight).

If you pull your CC to weight or R&R. Be careful with red locking clips. Each side has legs with hook at open end (out of sight), they need to be spread outward, when pulling clip to unlock. Or the plastic hook on leg may bust.
IMG_4208.webp
 
That backflush looked black, is it possible when a CC is blocked and saturated that charcoal gets back into the tank and even affects the pump?

Here's a thought - if the evap system is fully blocked, and its generally meant to be open and providing fuel vapour to the engine most of the time, then its basically expected enrichment. If its blocked, then blocking and unblocking that VSV line at best is alternating between a vacuum leak of air, and no input, when in fact it should be a test that alternates between enrichment and no input. So my test there, is actually a pretty bad test if that canister or line really is blocked.

I dont trust chat gpt much but it says a blockage in the CC can contribute +/-10-20 percent, and if its blocked, then disconnecting and blocking that line cant prove much.

As a theory It makes sense that on a hot day, more vapor/pressure in the tank, and the ECM with keeping the VSV open is expecting a certain amount of fuel input, however its not getting any. So that is a type of fuel delivery issue, even if its vapour. If the CC is blocked I'm missing out on getting some extra enrichment that should be there.

Thats just a theory anyway. When the smoke machine arrives I'll plug it into the cc to test it.

For your question - fuel tank doesn’t vacuum, it feel like its blowing.

Before doing these measurements we didn’t have FT’s getting into the 30’s. that seems to be a new normal since those hot few days. It started to get better again yesterday, the car hasn’t been used much.

STFT, is current engine fuel mixture, expressed as a percentage”

Thats not what I observe. STFT appears to be a correction by the ECM based on observed AFR to achieve optimal AFR. Actual realtime fuel trim (which we see in techstream) = LTFT + STFT - it has a value that sums both of these together.

I also observed after a reset, LTFT would be 0, and if say STFT sits at 20 for about 2-3 mins, after this point that value or some average/median value is copied over to LTFT (essentially memory and probably stored in a lookup table for quick reference in open loop), and STFT is zeroed out. So it looks like LTFT and STFT are summed for true FT. STFT is adjusted in realtime based on AFR until AFR is optimal, since LTFT is a more static contribution for the total FT.

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First we were trying to determine, if a vacuum leak:
1) Intake of engine (propane gas test area intake) test. No leak!
2) Opening somewhere in vapor recirculation system (EVAP line to engine VSV). No leak!

No vacuum leak found. Then next most likely if fuel stavation:

Yes, CC will cause engine running issues and more so on hot days. One issue, can be lean fuel trim condition. If fuel vapor not recirculated to engine intake.
Yes, CC backing up can dump crud into fuel tank. In pictures above. I showed just that, in crud staining in fuel fill neck.

By removing CC, and weighing and comparing vs new. You'll know if need to be replace. Fact you overfill fuel tank, it is, very likely is contaminated. If much over 8oz, consider R&R of CC. If 16oz overweight, replace for sure.

Making sure, CC work as is should is next step. There are test, and a port just before the EVAP VSV line to engine. See FSM.
That and pull fuel filter. Then backflush to see how it looks.
 
I've found another possible vacuum leak. That propane nor the plugging of EVAP line test would reveal. I was testing the VSV of the two S.A.I. SW for BK1 & BK2. When I found one bad (finger pointing to). Which results in small vacuum leak.

While, engine running and watching RPM. Pinch off vacuum line (red arrow) coming from under front of intake manifold, connected to the duel VSV (hand pointing to) of the S.A.I.
IMG_4395.JPEG
 
I can try that. Also though, I would suspect a smoke test if connected to the intake (doing that this week), and a second test to the exhaust, would reveal this wouldn't it? or would this region be protected by the SAI switching valves?
 
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I can try that. Also though, I would suspect a smoke test if connected to the intake (doing that this week), and a second test to the exhaust, would reveal this wouldn't it? or would this region be protected by the SAI switching valves?
No! Smoke into intake, would come out tailpipe. To, little too far downstream to see. May come out S.A.I. pump. But that would mean primary valve open, which you should see a DTC (code) and not likely. In that unlikely even, it come out SAI pump (blower). Again to hard to see.
 
Could we try plugging the smoke machine directly into the line you instructed to pinch?
I did test pinching it by the way, but didn't observe any change.
 
The new air filter is not the issue. You need to clear any codes with a code scanner. If you want to go one step further. After clearing the codes, disconnect the positive/negative battery cables. Then clamp the +/- battery cables together for a few minutes (or use a small jumper wire to the +/-). This will drain the ECU capacitors, forcing the ECU to relearn the engine running conditions.

What voltages coming off the O2 sensors when the fuel trims are high?
Renew (clean) any and all ground wires. The main ground from the battery to the engine block.
Aside from the fuel pressure (which can create the high fuel trims), you could have leaking fuel injectors. If the injectors are dripping/leaking. Then unmetered fuel is getting into the intake. The O2 sensors are telling the ECU too much gas and tries to lean the fuel trim.
 
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Could we try plugging the smoke machine directly into the line you instructed to pinch?
I did test pinching it by the way, but didn't observe any change.
No need. If no change in RPM, not likely vacuum leak. Even if was a vacuum leak, likely very minor.
"leave no stone unturned!" ;)
 
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While I do not think Toyota's are like this. My neighbor's 2007 Honda ridgeline required disconnecting both battery cables, then holding or joining the disconnected cables together for 60 sec. We had replaced the fuel pressure regulator to correct the rich fuel trims and running codes. We cleared the error codes. No change... after searching the internet. Without getting in to the details, we needed to tell the ECU a part was changed. After clearing the error codes with a scan tool. We did the +/- battery cable (disconnected from the battery) touching sequence to force the ECU to see the new component. Fact or Fiction...it worked.
 
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@bubfuji , leaking fuel injectors normally cause a rich condition, not lean.
Usually I find disconnecting the battery is enough to reset all fuel trims. I've also cleared all codes with my scangauge. when I replace sensors I will do as you suggest and connect the terminals together to discharge any energy.
I'm not sure how to verify the voltages at the AFR sensors, would love to learn though. I assume only the AFR sensors are used for fuel trims and not o2 as well?
When you say the new air filter is not the issue, I'm not sure what you are talking about, what post are you referring to?

My autoline pro smoke tester comes tomorrow and I'm keen to plug that into my charcoal canister input and see what comes out. Also exhaust, evap line to the petrol tank, and air intake.
 
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If you have a scan tool with live data. You can see the MAF voltage, and o2 sensor voltage while the engine is running. You may be able to see the fuel pressure data as well. Normal 02 sensors put out about .5v average (normal running engines). A .9 voltage is a tell the 02 sensor is working hard to manage air/fuel ratios

The air filter statement was directed at 2001LC from post #1. I did not realize there are two conversations. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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