2UZ-FE High Long Term Fuel Trims

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Definitely sounds like the connection is ok after first plugging in and then looses some continuity after a few minutes. The short terms will try to cancel out the long terms until the grody connection settles back to what the computer has adapted to. Could be weak pins, corrosion, etc. New MAF connectors are cheap enough it's worth a go.

Just some evidence for the jury—a Subaru forum where they had similar issues, but with mixtures reading rich (like what mine is currently doing) until the plug was fiddled with:

When installing the new plug I personally wouldn't use dielectric grease of any sort. Bare clean metal is the best for these highly-sensitive contacts. Some Deoxit D5 is the most I'd put on something like that.
I found and ordered new plug for $24 shipped from Ballanger Motorsports. eBay was the only other place I could find one. Looks like it's a common plug with lots of Toyotas, a few Mazdas, and Duramax Diesels of all things. I'll clean the grease out of the MAF before I install it. This also gives me the opportunity to lengthen and re-route the MAF harness, as it's kind of laying on top of the aFe CAI and looks a bit janky.

Thanks for the tip on the plug, I'll report back when I get it spliced in.
 
So a few updates:

1. A new aFe CAI tube showed up at my door last week, after I had emailed them. Weird because they never told me they shipped one, and I talked to aFe on the phone the same day and they didn't mention it was showing up! I replaced the tube and have similar fuel trims as before.
2. The new MAF connector and pigtail came in yesterday. I spliced it into the OEM harness with some heat shrink butt connectors. It's definitely more secure on the MAF than the old one. LTFTs are reducing slightly, but not much (still in the 15-17 range but better than the 20+ I was getting, albeit with just a couple of days of driving). Oddly, the MAF plug for the '07 GX is exactly the same as our '14 Subaru Outback.
3. I have not thrown a PO101 code in a week of driving, since swapping out the new aFe CAI tube.

So, short of swapping the OEM CAI back on, it seems like the aFe CAI design must be the culprit now. It flows more air than stock or is more turbulent, causing the O2 sensors to correct and add more fuel. Despite that, the 2UZ-FE runs great, gets good gas mileage (still hitting 19-20 mpg on the highway), and has more power than stock. The obvious solution is that these engines really need a tune with a CAI....although the ECU is able to correct for the MAF by upping the fuel trims and it's possible to NOT throw a CEL with these CAIs, it's probably running a bit rich at WOT since the closed-loop WOT air/fuel tables use the LTFTs as a baseline. Orange Virus has cracked the 2UZ-FE ECU and has a beta testing tuning software for it that allows the MAF tables to be adjusted. The GX will be getting headers and a catback this spring, so if I do tune it, it will wait until that is complete.
 
I don't see the point of using an aftermarket intake on a 2UZ-FE truck application. Unless you adding FI a tune will not improve the driving experience. Toyota's base tune has actual R&D behind it. Changing the intake or tune defeats the main purpose of the GX/100 series, reliability.

Having a fuel trim of +17% is pretty lean (my LTFT are 3% across both banks), I'd be more concerned about the cooling system than exhaust mods.
 
I don't see the point of using an aftermarket intake on a 2UZ-FE truck application. Unless you adding FI a tune will not improve the driving experience. Toyota's base tune has actual R&D behind it. Changing the intake or tune defeats the main purpose of the GX/100 series, reliability.

Having a fuel trim of +17% is pretty lean (my LTFT are 3% across both banks), I'd be more concerned about the cooling system than exhaust mods.
It has better midrange torque, downshifts less on hills, and gets around 0.5-2 mpg better with the CAI than stock. It also runs a consistent 185 degrees and right at 14.7:1 AFR with the CAI. So I can attest that it has improved the driving experience, in addition to sounding much better.
 
What are your short terms doing with the new plug?
 
What are your short terms doing with the new plug?
-4 to -7 or so, but I need to put some more miles on it to see how they change. It could improve a bit more.
So the aftermarket CAI caused all issues as I suggested. ....
Did you read the thread and my update? The CEL issue was due to a faulty MAF plug. Fuel trims are indeed due to the CAI but the truck runs great and is now capable of getting 20 mpg or better. I consider that a success and would re-install the CAI.
 
-4 to -7 or so, but I need to put some more miles on it to see how they change. It could improve a bit more.

If you didn't reset the ECU as part of this process I'd recommend that too. Your MPG may drop for a bit until the re-learning process is complete.
 
Good thread here. Last weekend I used my Scangauge to check fuel trims on the interstate. I was cruising along the interstate at 60-65 MPH.

The Long Term Fuel trim stayed on zero. I thought something was wrong with it because I got a zero reading. Then I accelerated (changed speed) and it did move to a +1 and quickly back to zero.

Short team fuel trim was more active depending on accelerator movement. I think it would hang around 0 while cruising while jumping up to 3 (average) or more reading depending on acceleration.

No complaints about fuel mileage or issues at ~240.000 miles. I replaced all O2 sensors roughly 5,000 miles ago and new plugs have been in for 1,500 miles with Denso recommended. I am a stickler about having squeaky clean new O2 sensors and clean MAF when I buy a used vehicle and start the baseline process.
 
Good thread here. Last weekend I used my Scangauge to check fuel trims on the interstate. I was cruising along the interstate at 60-65 MPH.

The Long Term Fuel trim stayed on zero. I thought something was wrong with it because I got a zero reading. Then I accelerated (changed speed) and it did move to a +1 and quickly back to zero.

Short team fuel trim was more active depending on accelerator movement. I think it would hang around 0 while cruising while jumping up to 3 (average) or more reading depending on acceleration.

No complaints about fuel mileage or issues at ~240.000 miles. I replaced all O2 sensors roughly 5,000 miles ago and new plugs have been in for 1,500 miles with Denso recommended. I am a stickler about having squeaky clean new O2 sensors and clean MAF when I buy a used vehicle and start the baseline process.
Did you install headers yet? I am going to put my long tube Doug Thorley headers on soon with magnaflow cat back. Also looking to put the MAP-ECU 3 piggyback in. I am tracking the MPG to see the results of the mods.
 
Since this thread was resurrected, I figured it would be good to give an update.

I've had no issues with MAF-related CEL's since replacing the MAF and MAF plug in early 2021. Since then I installed a set of DT LT headers and installed a SAIS bypass (including removing the SAIS tubes). This gave the GX quite a bit more power and it ran great.

Regarding the LT FT's, they stopped being crazy-high after fixing the MAF plug, but were still all over the place, and would oscillate from around 0 to 12+. I noticed that the high positive LT FT's would sometimes appear after running a tank of discount, non-top tier gas through the GX (which I did fairly often when gas was $4.50+ a gallon), and the GX seemed light on power. This would usually fix itself after resetting the ECU.

Earlier this summer I went ahead and replaced both upstream O2 sensors with new Denso units, just due to them being 15 years old. This seemed to stabilize the LTFT's. Now they are around 0 to +5, depending on engine speed/ambient air temp/etc. I don't ever expect them to be 0 consistently as my engine is no longer stock with the CAI and headers. I've ran some cheaper gas through it since then, which sometimes does seem to degrade performance, but the GX will go back to running normal on the next tank without resetting the ECU.

Overall....replace your O2 sensors. They don't last forever. Mine were definitely a bit slow/off. The GX also gets a bit better MPG towing with the new sensors (it did not change much unloaded).
 
Did you install headers yet? I am going to put my long tube Doug Thorley headers on soon with magnaflow cat back. Also looking to put the MAP-ECU 3 piggyback in. I am tracking the MPG to see the results of the mods.
Still running stock headers. The only thing new that could have had an impact installed during the past few months is coils and vacuum hoses. Also, I did install a used MAF that I picked up from a part out because the original started to show some strange behavior.
 
Since this thread was resurrected, I figured it would be good to give an update.

I've had no issues with MAF-related CEL's since replacing the MAF and MAF plug in early 2021. Since then I installed a set of DT LT headers and installed a SAIS bypass (including removing the SAIS tubes). This gave the GX quite a bit more power and it ran great.

Regarding the LT FT's, they stopped being crazy-high after fixing the MAF plug, but were still all over the place, and would oscillate from around 0 to 12+. I noticed that the high positive LT FT's would sometimes appear after running a tank of discount, non-top tier gas through the GX (which I did fairly often when gas was $4.50+ a gallon), and the GX seemed light on power. This would usually fix itself after resetting the ECU.

Earlier this summer I went ahead and replaced both upstream O2 sensors with new Denso units, just due to them being 15 years old. This seemed to stabilize the LTFT's. Now they are around 0 to +5, depending on engine speed/ambient air temp/etc. I don't ever expect them to be 0 consistently as my engine is no longer stock with the CAI and headers. I've ran some cheaper gas through it since then, which sometimes does seem to degrade performance, but the GX will go back to running normal on the next tank without resetting the ECU.

Overall....replace your O2 sensors. They don't last forever. Mine were definitely a bit slow/off. The GX also gets a bit better MPG towing with the new sensors (it did not change much unloaded).
I was going to suggest that higher than normal levels of ethanol in the fuel could cause that. During the price surges earlier this year people were claiming all over the country gas smelled weird and some people measured 40% ethanol in gas that was labeled 10% ethanol.

Two things with CAIs that have oiled air filters: the oil can get on the MAF and cause issues so you should clean it regularly and also if you don't oil it regularly they don't filter very well.
 
I was going to suggest that higher than normal levels of ethanol in the fuel could cause that. During the price surges earlier this year people were claiming all over the country gas smelled weird and some people measured 40% ethanol in gas that was labeled 10% ethanol.

Two things with CAIs that have oiled air filters: the oil can get on the MAF and cause issues so you should clean it regularly and also if you don't oil it regularly they don't filter very well.
E10 is mandated for 87 octane in MO, unfortunately, which is what I've been running since fuel crested $2.00/gallon. The Top Tier fuel that I try to buy usually causes no issues, it's the discount stations (who perhaps are getting that higher ethanol fuel delivered!). My CAI is a aFe oil-less model that gets washed often, so no issues there.

One other potential issue could be my 15-year old injectors. I am going to pull them and overnight them to InjectorRX for a rebuild and flow testing later in December. I do get a bit of side-to-side difference in fuel trims (bank 2 is usually 2-3 percent higher than bank 1), perhaps that is the reason.
 
I don't see the point of using an aftermarket intake on a 2UZ-FE truck application. Unless you adding FI a tune will not improve the driving experience. Toyota's base tune has actual R&D behind it. Changing the intake or tune defeats the main purpose of the GX/100 series, reliability.

Having a fuel trim of +17% is pretty lean (my LTFT are 3% across both banks), I'd be more concerned about the cooling system than exhaust mods.
Why the Cooling system? I have very high Lyft that seems persisteant after changing almost everything I could except the exhaust manifolds.I am too scared of snapping a bolt.

It throws po171, bank 1. Changing MAf maf and o2 sensors, as well as smoked out the vacuum leaks. All of which helped, but still very high ltft, at low engine loads.

I do have a spare 100, written off by insurance, but has everything. Plan is to take that engine out nd rebuild it with den thorly headers to fit the possible exist manifold leak in bank 2.

But back to your comment, sorry for the essay, why cooking?
 
I just found this thread - thought I was the only one with LTFT issues. Mine are a bit different though.
I've got long term fuel trim issues on both banks for my 4.7L 200 series sahara 2008. Mut one bank is high at 20 and the other is generally lower.
At times it readings for LTFT are assymetrical for bank 1 and 2 like you see here idling.
E573FACF-7209-457A-A668-4C5350ECED40_1_105_c.webp


We've checked injectors they are fine. Compression tests pass, one cylinder is slightly low around 80-85% but I dont think thats it.
Mine drinks around 23.5L/100km (I weigh 3.7 Tonne, but I calculate I'm drinking 10% + more than others at this weight at least).
What would cause us to see these changes in both banks, but they aren't matching like this? Should we be blaming vacuum leaks on the input or or the exhaust? I did a propane test and got nothing affecting STFT with any consistency that I could tell. The fact that it is different for both banks means I doubt this is the MAF sensor. Everything in the engine is stock apart from a TJM snorkel hooked up to the factory airbox.
It could be o2 sensors, or there could be physical issues with exhaust leaks. Not sure what else I should be looking at. I'm very keen to fix this because I want to this 2UZ to live for a long time.
 
Sometimes we've little things adding up. Others, it one issue.

Is your 4.7L 2UZ-fe, a VVTi? Does it have the S.A.I. system?

That one weak cylinder, could account for balance BK1 to BK2. With more going, also. Typically, when we talking % in a compression test. We're talking about leak down %. It best to list each cylinders PSI. What are the PSI readings for each?

You state: Fuel Injectors are "fine". How do you know this?

I like to look at LTFT & STFT, while cruising on HWY. No change in gas pedal, no hill just nice level HWY cruising. I log with my smartphone, VIA wireless OBDII. In logs I record FT, CAT temps, IAT, ECT, RPM, MPH and AT #1 at miniums. Then I look for points in data stream, where RPM & MPH steady (no change). This tells me when, I'm cruising steady at HWY speeds. That is where, all system at optimal or should be. Do you have data from when cruising?

+LTFT above 5% ( i see most LTFT~3% here in mile high city) indicates engine running lean. ECM is increasing fuel to mixture, to get STFT near 0%. Either fuel starvation or vacuum leak is most common, for high LTFT. In your STFT2, it is correcting to much or snap-shot to short duration, to be meaningful. This is where logs are really helpful.

We I do vacuum test with a gas, NAPA, propane, etc. I, just watch/listen to RPM. I suppose you can watch FT. But data, takes time to get to reader. You could pass over vacuum leak, and not see it on read out.

I've one case, where rust from fuel station old steel tanks. Was in gas tank, fuel pump sock and fuel filter. Resulted in reduce fuel flow. Fuel PSI checked out to spec. But fuel flow, apparently was not.

I've seen many improve, with new MAF sensor.

One easy test, swap A/F sensors. See if FT balance moves to BK1 being the worst.
 
Sometimes we've little things adding up. Others, it one issue.

Is your 4.7L 2UZ-fe, a VVTi? Does it have the S.A.I. system?

That one weak cylinder, could account for balance BK1 to BK2. With more going, also. Typically, when we talking % in a compression test. We're talking about leak down %. It best to list each cylinders PSI. What are the PSI readings for each?

You state: Fuel Injectors are "fine". How do you know this?

I like to look at LTFT & STFT, while cruising on HWY. No change in gas pedal, no hill just nice level HWY cruising. I log with my smartphone, VIA wireless OBDII. In logs I record FT, CAT temps, IAT, ECT, RPM, MPH and AT #1 at miniums. Then I look for points in data stream, where RPM & MPH steady (no change). This tells me when, I'm cruising steady at HWY speeds. That is where, all system at optimal or should be. Do you have data from when cruising?

+LTFT above 5% ( i see most LTFT~3% here in mile high city) indicates engine running lean. ECM is increasing fuel to mixture, to get STFT near 0%. Either fuel starvation or vacuum leak is most common, for high LTFT. In your STFT2, it is correcting to much or snap-shot to short duration, to be meaningful. This is where logs are really helpful.

We I do vacuum test with a gas, NAPA, propane, etc. I, just watch/listen to RPM. I suppose you can watch FT. But data, takes time to get to reader. You could pass over vacuum leak, and not see it on read out.

I've one case, where rust from fuel station old steel tanks. Was in gas tank, fuel pump sock and fuel filter. Resulted in reduce fuel flow. Fuel PSI checked out to spec. But fuel flow, apparently was not.

I've seen many improve, with new MAF sensor.

One easy test, swap A/F sensors. See if FT balance moves to BK1 being the worst.
Some great Ideas there! Thanks for the reply, I didn't realise no notifications were on.
Yes mine is VVTi (I think all 200 2uz's are in Australia)
Here's a printout of fuel trims and compression test.
What do you use to be able to log graphs of these readings for the obd2 and phone app? I think that would be better than the scangauge 3. I think I bought the wrong tool. Its better than nothing, but I need logs like you say.
For the injectors, a good thorough mechanic who I trust took them out I think and ran them through some process that tests their pressure. I don't remember the details but he was confident it was not them.
I also looked at o2 sensors while idling (annoyingly scangauge doesn't fit enough meters on that I'm happy with it), but at idle they show a higher percentage on B2S2%. Would that be understandable if LTFT B2 is already higher? or should we not see assymetry there since the fuel trims should be doing their job.

I've got a little vid here of o2 assymtery. Will try and record more to share what you suggest. Theory: Could this potentially indicate an exhaust leak since I would expect if fuel trim is high on bank2, o2 should also NOT be higher, I would expect less oxygen if more fuel is getting thrown in. but if there was an exhaust leak then the ECU perhaps would never be able to keep up with o2 coming in from the ambient environment, it would just say, "I'm lean no matter what you do and I'm gonna chuck in more fuel via STFT and LTFT".
Since there IS assymetry, is it possible we can rule out the fuel pump? I would expect it to behave symmetrically if it was but I am not sure.

I will also try to swap the sensors soon.

Very new to all this but keen to dig in deep and I studied electronics and am a programmer. Not experienced with engines at all.

Video of the o2 assymetry between banks on youtube

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