my 2007 200 2uzfe vvti could have one of those fuel pumps possibly. So even a fuel volume test wont show they are bad since its in the transition for low to high rate they stutter?
These are in 06-07 U.S 100 series 4.7L, fuel pumps. I've no idea which pump you have. You can compare your P/N at
www.partsoug.com with your VIN#. To 23220-50160 PUMP ASSY, FUEL W/FILTER 05-2005 thru 08-2007 No test shows them as bad.
I first suspected this issues, reading service history of one 06LC w/200k miles. In where, a shop (Lexus Dealership) from mile 1 to miles 100,000. Could correct, a sattl. What they called vapor lock. Thye tested repeatedly. When I first had a stall (dead stick), I had code reader hooked-up. Read codes, before key off. I saw, BK1&2 lean condition. Formed and tested theory I came up with, while driving that day. I was able to repeat stall condition.
Only driving test, has revealed these bad fuel pumps. In all cases I know, it only after running in high RPM during summer heat.
One could hook up a wireless pressure gauge, and watch. But that doesn't also mean fuel flow (GPM) correct!
I dont think I notice stalling though, but I might not know. I do notice a shudder if I put my foot down when turning, but that could be traction control, no beeping though like I'd always expect. I used to notice a shudder when accelerating somewhere between 30kmh and 70kmh, but I dont think thats there anymore since my last mechanic fixed a loose spark plug.
Misfires or poor running engine, in need of a tune. Can have many caused.
BTW: There is a known, low speed shutter TSB. It deals with under filled A/T, from factory.
I moved interstate recently and will get a new mechanic to do the tests again you have mentioned. They say they have worked on a few 2uz's and get good reviews in google so I hope we find something without it braking the bank.
You have a diagnosable issue. Hard part, is finding someone knows what he's doing and willing to take the time.
Don't mean to detract from OPs current FT issue but I'll be very curious to read about the cause of the rougher idle around 2k rpm and over 4500rpm on the low mileage cruiser.
So don't know yet. It's the lowest "known mileage" 100 series known, in the world. At 23,500 on odometer. Is one I'm working on today!
I do find fuel issues with these, ultra low miles, very often. This is due to, prolong periods of being parked, without running engine. Which can damage fuel injectors (FI) and Fuel pressure regulator (FPR). By rust specks on needles. Filter screen of FI can also have issues.
Here's what I found so far, inspecting this weekend:
Fuel trims good, but balance could be better (variation between BK1 & BK2). It is basically a new engine, barely broken in. So I want to see perfect!
Very likely, has a bad CC:
Fuel filling area mucky/gunky and cap letter not readable. This indicates fuel boiling, due to charcoal canister, being contaminated. Very likely OP, day one, over filled and continued doing so, the fuel tank. 03-06 where CC in back. OM warns never add more fuel, after auto pump handle, auto shut off. Doing so floods CC.
Here's gas fill muck/gunk and cap lettering gone.
Borescope of fill neck. A bit murky/gunky in fill tube. Something I'll be doing more of.
Cap rubber seals, pre these two Air Breathers.holes. Best I can tell, these go to CC assy. At least one does.
We see a vent hole. Just below cap and breathers holes, just past large open into fill tube.
looking into, above hole. It's a tube that goes into fuel tank, to vent back to neck near cap.
FPR:
FPR, failed test at 46 PSI. PSI over spec (38PSI min, 44PSI max) during static test. PSI varied with Volts from battery. 43.9PSI @ 11.8Volts var up to 46PSI @13.1V. FSM states R&R FPR.
Engine running 41.25PSi @ 13.7V fuel pump pass. I would have like to see 44PSI at 12.5v to 13.7 volt, from very low use fuel pump. May have a sock clog issue, or weak pump. but can be other issue, like EVAP (CC and EVAP VS and lines)
Fuel filter backwash.
Fuel filter backwash, a bit dirtier than one would think, for mileage of less than 24K.
Cylinder compression good.
But BK1 a tad lower than BK2, and less even cylinder to cylinder. Can result in rough idle. These PSI reads, at 5K ft ASL and variation is minor. But I do have, a 2003 w/320 miles very even ~182PSI. So good, I need to retest, as hard to believe.
Also my readings are not sea-level. At sea level, reads would be higher on gauge (factor ~0.86). Also had group 24F battery, I did have charger on, but some cylinder tested AMP/volt and thus RPM a bit low (subjective)
Bk1 1-175, 3-180, 5-175, 7-175.
BK2 2-180, 4-185, 6-182, 8-185
5K' ASL. Batt24F w/charger on at 30AMP (Turned on after #7). Started test, <20 min after ECT hit 87F, for 5 minutes.
Cyl-ECT/RPM: 1-178/200, 3-177/250, 5-179/220, 7-180/192. 2-176/200, 4-175/200, 6-173/200, 8-172/200.
Note ECT highest first (#7) cylinder tested. Ordered i test compression: 7, 5, 3, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8.
Borescope of cylinders revealed:
Some minor vertical scoring, likely from dust. Since only on second air filter, and its seal not curled (common install issue curls them). Air tube, has no signs of dust whatsoever. Intake manifold never offl. Spark plugs the never out. No vacuum leak, all factory hoses. Air pipe, never even removed.
Vertical lines (scoring from dust(sand)
So only way dust could have, entered cylinders. S.A.I. filter failure. Which borescope show filter is not in place. I was surprised at this, with only 24k miles on engine. But then I remembered, the Lexus TSB on GX460 S.A.I. filter recall. Stated. "Possibly filter failure related to moisture". Vehicle lived in, very high humidity. In Gulf Coast area. (Gulf of America (Trump renaming. LOL)
S.A.I. Filter not visible during borescope inspection: May be gone, may find deeper in pump cap. I'll know soon.
Here's an S.A.I. filter, still in view, as should be.
Note: Sound system speakers are failing. Likely foam rubber disintegrated. Foam on and under engine falls apart like sand (disintegrate). Most likely, regional climate related.
What I'll now do:
Will do the S.A.I. replaceable filter mod. To protect: S.A.I system, engine and CATs.
Timing belt & coolant service & tune up.
OF&L with EPR flush and MOA additive.
More to point of fuel issues;
Will have all 8 FI retested and rebuilt by FIS
Will R&R FPR.
Will R&R CC and its filter.
Will R&R fuel filter.
May look inside fuel tank, depending on how runs after above. So may R&R fuel pump, while in there. Why, may have rust in gas tank. from steel fuel station storage tanks.
Also will I'll be doing a A/T 12 qt fluid flush and set to correct temp/level. A/T temp TSB.
Along with brake, PS, Diffs and TC in flush in baseline.
And more!
I wonder if it were possible to add a sensor to log fuel pressure before / after the regulator, that would be cool. but I'm just nerding out.
Some have seen them added them in ih8mud. Both hardline and wireless. But I've only seen PSI fuel sensors, in mud. No fuel flow.
Speaking to Mentone Toyota who used to service it, their tech advisor said if there is more than 14 psi variance in cylinder compression, its a failed engine and it absolutely could cause high fuel trims because the engine is essentially fighting itself. our variance is 22psi. compression on worst cylinder is 150psi and minimum acceptable is 149, but the variance test fails.
So will I replace with a crate engine or rebuild? This one is not going to be a million mile motor.
Don't toss it out, just yet. Many with weak compression and high differential. Also I'd repeat, test and do additional testing. Borescope, wet test, leak-down with note an where leak. Is compression a heads issue, rings, or both????
Again. I'd inspect S.A.I. filter to help build they why.
When compression low. This may result in unburnt fuel. Which is, also affected by Octane used. But almost always, low compression. Result in a "rich" running condition. These will have, LTFT in the negative. You have something causing a lean condition.
A/T fluid temp, TSB:
