2f starts, but won't run (1 Viewer)

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EDIT: yes, that was supposed to read "1977"

I have a 1997 FJ40 that I'm trying to get to run, after allowing it to sit for a couple of months. It ran when it was stored.

The engine turns over, catches and runs for a couple of crank rotations, and then stops. There is also a very rich smell, during the seconds while it's running. After it catches, it won't start at all until it sits for a few minutes.

I know this isn't much to work from, but I'd like some thoughts about where to take the troubleshooting. Full disclosure: I haven't open the 2f manual yet.
 
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roadstr6

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Did you mean 1977?

Check fuel cut solenoid for electrical connectivity (it should click when the key is turned to ign). Check fuel bowl sight glass (fuel level in middle of sight glass). Check fuel filter for obvious debris. May be the secondary butterfly in the carb being snagged on a paper gasket underneath, holding it open. If that happens, it will run rich and stumble. Check secondary butterfly by removing air cleaner and visually inspecting and manually cycling secondary to verify it is fully closing. If it's being held open, remove carb. Remove paper gasket, trim and re-install or just leave the gasket off. It's not really supposed to be there anyway. If you think there may be water in the carb, remove one of the carb bowl drain bolts from the front and drain it into a glass to check for water.

Let me know if you want me to come by and assist (assuming you're at home).
 
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Did you mean 1977?

Check fuel cut solenoid for electrical connectivity (it should click when the key is turned to ign). Check fuel bowl sight glass (fuel level in middle of sight glass). Check fuel filter for obvious debris. May be the secondary butterfly in the carb being snagged on a paper gasket underneath, holding it open. If that happens, it will run rich and stumble. Check secondary buttefly by removing air cleaner and visually inpecting and manually cycling secondary to verify it is fully closing. If it's being held open, remove carb. Remove paper gasket, trim and re-install or just leave the gasket off. It's not really supposed to be there anyway. If you think there may be water in the carb, remove one of the carb bowl drain bolts from the front and drain it into a glass to check for water.

Let me know if you want me to come by and assist (assuming you're at home).
:rofl: Yes, 1977, not the desirable, but very hard to find 1997 FJ40. It's not here; it's down the raod. I'm going to look at it tonight and see if I can wave a magic wand over it.
 

roadstr6

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Got it. Be aware that my carb suggestions are based on potential issues with a factory style carb, not a POS Weber. No telling what you'll be dealing with when you get there.
 
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It's stock. Thanks for the advice. Your thoughts confirmed what I could remember, back when I had a 40.
 
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Sounds like the float is stuck open and it's just dumping gas into the engine. See if you can carefully peer down the carb (hold choke open) while someone else cranks and starts it. Wear safety glasses in case is backfires.
 

fyton2v

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Stalls even with the choke engaged and trying the throttle? Is it backfiring or stumbling, or does it just stall like it's short on fuel? Fuel showing halfway up the window is where it's supposed to be, so gas is getting to the carb. Perhaps some of the passageways in the carb are clogged. If it hasn't been rebuilt in a while, that's a fun exercise. Or perhaps fuel isn't being delivered quickly enough. I'd watch that window when someone else starts it to see if the level drops quickly. It should stay around the hallway mark. If it does, then perhaps you need a new fuel filter. You can try disconnecting the fuel lines between the carb and tank and blow some air through at relatively low pressure... to make sure the lines are clear.
 
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Stalls even with the choke engaged and trying the throttle? Is it backfiring or stumbling, or does it just stall like it's short on fuel? Fuel showing halfway up the window is where it's supposed to be, so gas is getting to the carb. Perhaps some of the passageways in the carb are clogged. If it hasn't been rebuilt in a while, that's a fun exercise. Or perhaps fuel isn't being delivered quickly enough. I'd watch that window when someone else starts it to see if the level drops quickly. It should stay around the hallway mark. If it does, then perhaps you need a new fuel filter. You can try disconnecting the fuel lines between the carb and tank and blow some air through at relatively low pressure... to make sure the lines are clear.
Starts, runs (as it's supposed to, actually sounds good) and then dies. Needs the full choke and foot-on-floor to start, but idles then dies - just like it runs out of gas.
 
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Ballast resistor may be bad. That is usually what I think of when my 40 will start but not run
 

fyton2v

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Since it’s been sitting I’d think about sediment in the fuel filter or carb. All would be a fuel delivery issue. The one thing I haven’t seen you write is whether or not you can keep it running by adding throttle? If it’s just dying at idle maybe you simply need to redo your idle mixture. But odd for that to change while the truck was stored. There are much better troubleshooters on Mud than me, but I’d mostly be focused on the carb if it hasn’t been rebuilt.
 
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Since it’s been sitting I’d think about sediment in the fuel filter or carb. All would be a fuel delivery issue. The one thing I haven’t seen you write is whether or not you can keep it running by adding throttle? If it’s just dying at idle maybe you simply need to redo your idle mixture. But odd for that to change while the truck was stored. There are much better troubleshooters on Mud than me, but I’d mostly be focused on the carb if it hasn’t been rebuilt.
It will not continue to run after it starts. I'm thinking carb adjustments are pretty low on the list, to be honest.
 
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Ballast resistor may be bad. That is usually what I think of when my 40 will start but not run
I don't think it's an ignition problem; the engine starts, runs for a few seconds, and then dies, and won't restart for several minutes. But I'll check the ballast, just to cross that off the list. Maybe it's shorting as it warms up.
 
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Have you done this yet?
I actually swapped the carb; it was easier than dealing with with a rebuild (at the time). I filled the bowl with known good fuel, to prime it, prior to cranking, to remove the "bad fuel" possibility. There's at least enough fuel in the bowl to start and run, until the float falls.

Still no starting. I feel sure it's a fuel problem, but I'm at a loss to identify it.
 

Skreddy

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Starts, runs (as it's supposed to, actually sounds good) and then dies. Needs the full choke and foot-on-floor to start, but idles then dies - just like it runs out of gas.
Choke and foot on floor do not correlate well. The choke is restricting air at the top of the air inlet, then you’re trying to let more in at the bottom.

What do you mean you switched carb? Is it still an Aisin? Is it correct for your year? Is it new, rebuilt, off a known running engine, etc?

Need to know what carb is on it and the condition. Then, what settings as far as mixture screw, vacuum sources plugged or hooked correctly, etc. Pics may help.
 

fyton2v

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You’ve reached the stage of troubleshooting where I would start hitting the motor with a hammer. But just to save other people time… you said that the truck starts, but in your last post “still no starting”. Safe to assume you can still start it with choke?
 

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