2F engine pull, dropping in a replacement 2F from an FJ60 | Build notes + questions

[organmountainman]

Hey all, long-time lurker finally posting a build thread. Got a ‘76 FJ40 that ate itself on the highway about 6 months ago — cracked block, bent rod, complete oil loss at speed. Classic worst-case scenario. Rather than part it out I sourced a replacement 2F pulled from an FJ60, did a refresh on it (new seals, head resurfaced, new gasket set), and I’m now at the engine pull/drop-in phase.

What’s the process of pulling the engine? I’ve read mixed things about dropping the T/T first and then pulling the engine or pulling it all as one unit. I am concerned about garage ceiling height to clear the bumper for the everything as a single unit.

FJ60 2F into an FJ40, any known gotchas?
The replacement engine is from a later FJ60. Should be a straight swap but unsure if there’s anything I’m missing. I’m reusing most of my accessories from the old engine, but replacing components that are damaged.

What’s next
Once the engine is out I’m looking at installing the Holley Sniper EFI components using the Mosley Motors 2F-specific kit. Already have the Sniper unit in hand. Down the road, H55F 5-speed swap.

Thanks in advance. This community has already saved me more hours of head-scratching than I can count.

Blown engine

Replacement Fj60 2F Engine

 

[charliemeyer007]

Did you loose oil pressure from the dizzy lifting out of the oil pump? Make sure your clamp is tight - check every so often - direct read large oil pressure gauge and look at it often.

I pull/install the unit engine/tranny/transfer one piece. Once I dropped the t/t and I wasn't boy enough to put them by myself in an afternoon. Pulled engine attached t/t, put it all back in 3 hours.

Mark all the wires/hoses. Pull the starter. Take off the manifolds. Pull radiator, loosen bib and rotavate forward. Disconnect the drive lines. Pull the tranny shifter, tranny hump cover/ front seats, disconnect the transfer case shifter. Remove the clutch slave

 

[organmountainman]

Did you loose oil pressure from the dizzy lifting out of the oil pump? Make sure your clamp is tight - check every so often - direct read large oil pressure gauge and look at it often.

I pull/install the unit engine/tranny/transfer one piece. Once I dropped the t/t and I wasn't boy enough to put them by myself in an afternoon. Pulled engine attached t/t, put it all back in 3 hours.

Mark all the wires/hoses. Pull the starter. Take off the manifolds. Pull radiator, loosen bib and rotavate forward. Disconnect the drive lines. Pull the tranny shifter, tranny hump cover/ front seats, disconnect the transfer case shifter. Remove the clutch slave

You know what, that might have something to do with the failure, I completely forgot about that. At one point I had to tighten the cap because one of the clamps was loose. Might have been something else loose there.

How much head room do you need for both to come out at once? I’ve got a 2 ton hoist and decently sized garage, but I’m afraid of maxing out my height with the load leveler on before I can get it out.

 

[cruiserkev]

I did this same swap into my 76 several years ago. In my case I left the transmission hump in and just removed the shifters. Used a 2 ton hoist and pulled the entire drive train, removed seized 2F, replaced clutch, throwout and attached new block. New engine mounts and plugged it back in as one unit. Reused nearly all my 76 era accessories including the water pump but decided to just use the 60 series fuel pump. Didn't see much use in keeping it so I ditched the oil cooler as well. It was a lot of work but I did everything by myself in one weekend. Good luck!

 

[organmountainman]

I did this same swap into my 76 several years ago. In my case I left the transmission hump in and just removed the shifters. Used a 2 ton hoist and pulled the entire drive train, removed seized 2F, replaced clutch, throwout and attached new block. New engine mounts and plugged it back in as one unit. Reused nearly all my 76 era accessories including the water pump but decided to just use the 60 series fuel pump. Didn't see much use in keeping it so I ditched the oil cooler as well. It was a lot of work but I did everything by myself in one weekend. Good luck!

Dang in one weekend! That’s awesome!

I ended up down the rabbit hole of, “while I’m in there, might as well….”
Spent way more money than I needed to do things ‘right’ plus I didn’t really own many tools since I haven’t done a job thing big before so it was nice to get some new toys haha

 

[Aloha Jen]

We pulled out everything together on our ‘75. Seemed so much easier to go that route. If you have a leveler for your hoist, it makes it easier if you have height concerns. Also easier to swap over trans/clutch/flywheel with it all out.

 

[organmountainman]

We pulled out everything together on our ‘75. Seemed so much easier to go that route. If you have a leveler for your hoist, it makes it easier if you have height concerns. Also easier to swap over trans/clutch/flywheel with it all out.
View attachment 4135424View attachment 4135425View attachment 4135426View attachment 4135427

Niceee! Yeah okay that makes me feel a bit better seeing these pics. I think I have just enough head room to lift it all out especially with it angled like that. Thanks!

 

[Pighead]

I’ve read mixed things about dropping the T/T first and then pulling the engine or pulling it all as one unit.

The real question is "Where do you want to re-attach the engine to the tranny". Doing it with the tranny in the rig is no fun, doing it with both on the garage floor is not easy either. I've done it both ways, it's probably the hardest job to do on a 'Cruiser.
If you're worried about headroom in the garage, maybe take off your front tires and lower the front end...

 

[charliemeyer007]

For me it was easier to lift the assembly and roll the rig backwards. The first and last time I used a big A frame with a chain falls. The middle 2 times were with a come along on a big angle iron setting on industrial shelving post sitting on fire wood rounds - yes sketchy as it sounds - but worked. I have a load leveler and a tranny jack now.

I have always had to work outside.

 

[organmountainman]

For me it was easier to lift the assembly and roll the rig backwards. The first and last time I used a big A frame with a chain falls. The middle 2 times were with a come along on a big angle iron setting on industrial shelving post sitting on fire wood rounds - yes sketchy as it sounds - but worked. I have a load leveler and a tranny jack now.

I have always had to work outside.

I would have done it outside I. The driveway but a random May rain/snow storm decided to hit Denver today and tomorrow

 

[organmountainman]

The real question is "Where do you want to re-attach the engine to the tranny". Doing it with the tranny in the rig is no fun, doing it with both on the garage floor is not easy either. I've done it both ways, it's probably the hardest job to do on a 'Cruiser.
If you're worried about headroom in the garage, maybe take off your front tires and lower the front end...

Yeah that’s my next step if I don’t think there’s enough room, but just might be able to make it work. Thanks!

 

[organmountainman]

Did you loose oil pressure from the dizzy lifting out of the oil pump? Make sure your clamp is tight - check every so often - direct read large oil pressure gauge and look at it often.

I pull/install the unit engine/tranny/transfer one piece. Once I dropped the t/t and I wasn't boy enough to put them by myself in an afternoon. Pulled engine attached t/t, put it all back in 3 hours.

Mark all the wires/hoses. Pull the starter. Take off the manifolds. Pull radiator, loosen bib and rotavate forward. Disconnect the drive lines. Pull the tranny shifter, tranny hump cover/ front seats, disconnect the transfer case shifter. Remove the clutch slave

I just removed the rear and front drive lines and about to remove the shifters. Do I need to remove the parking brake line as well? I noticed it was next to the speedometer cable connection I removed

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yes. Sorry the last time I pulled the motor was about 20 years, hard to remember everything.

 

[Aloha Jen]

I just removed the rear and front drive lines and about to remove the shifters. Do I need to remove the parking brake line as well? I noticed it was next to the speedometer cable connection I removed

You can either disconnect the speedo cable and brake line, and remove with the drum attached. Or, we just unbolted the parking brake drum and set it off to the side under the truck with cable still attached.

 

[organmountainman]

You can either disconnect the speedo cable and brake line, and remove with the drum attached. Or, we just unbolted the parking brake drum and set it off to the side under the truck with cable still attached.

Dang, wish I read this earlier, was trying to get the parking brake line out for a while when finally decided to just unbolt the whole drum

 

[organmountainman]

One other thing I forgot to do after pulling the drive lines was mark them to reassemble in the correct orientation, that’s gonna be fun finding out I mounted them wrong after the first test drive…

 

[Aloha Jen]

One other thing I forgot to do after pulling the drive lines was mark them to reassemble in the correct orientation, that’s gonna be fun finding out I mounted them wrong after the first test drive…

It’s easy to get them back in the correct phase. We didn’t mark ours either, but there are a few threads in this forum that can help. I think we followed advice from this one:

Thread 'Alignment of driveshaft yokes & mystery vibrations'

May 9, 2008

I must give credit to "Australian 4WD Action" magazine and "Roothy" (the magazine's key contributor) for finally getting me to look under my cruiser and check my driveshafts for their "yoke alignments".

My back shaft is easy to photograph and it conforms to what the magazine refers to as "having the yokes in the same plane".

(I've drawn a cross on each yoke so you can see clearly that they are indeed in alignment.)



Now, to my astonishment my front drive shaft is set up exactly the opposite. Its yokes are 90 degrees out of alignment!

I'd show you a photo...

• lostmarbles
• Replies: 49
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

• 

 

[organmountainman]

It’s a beautiful spring afternoon to work on the FJ…

Just received my new thermostat housing and clutch kit. Old thermostat housing was corroded shut, tried drilling out the bolts and completely butchered it.

Shiny new housing :

Now back to the engine pull, I think all I’ve got left are the shifters, clutch slave cylinder, engine/bell housing mounts, and wires underneath.

Anyone know what the two wires going to the transmission are for? Want to make sure I label them so they don’t get mixed up on install. And anything else I’m forgetting before I yank her out?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Reverse light switch? Check your wiring diagram for the color codes.

 

[organmountainman]

@charliemeyer007 Do I need to remove the whole clutch slave assembly or just the hose?