2F engine pull, dropping in a replacement 2F from an FJ60 | Build notes + questions

[organmountainman]

Hey all, long-time lurker finally posting a build thread. Got a ‘76 FJ40 that ate itself on the highway about 6 months ago — cracked block, bent rod, complete oil loss at speed. Classic worst-case scenario. Rather than part it out I sourced a replacement 2F pulled from an FJ60, did a refresh on it (new seals, head resurfaced, new gasket set), and I’m now at the engine pull/drop-in phase.

What’s the process of pulling the engine? I’ve read mixed things about dropping the T/T first and then pulling the engine or pulling it all as one unit. I am concerned about garage ceiling height to clear the bumper for the everything as a single unit.

FJ60 2F into an FJ40, any known gotchas?
The replacement engine is from a later FJ60. Should be a straight swap but unsure if there’s anything I’m missing. I’m reusing most of my accessories from the old engine, but replacing components that are damaged.

What’s next
Once the engine is out I’m looking at installing the Holley Sniper EFI components using the Mosley Motors 2F-specific kit. Already have the Sniper unit in hand. Down the road, H55F 5-speed swap.

Thanks in advance. This community has already saved me more hours of head-scratching than I can count.

Blown engine

Replacement Fj60 2F Engine

 

[charliemeyer007]

I just remove the unit and tie it out of the way.

 

[organmountainman]

Update:
Finally got the engine out last night. Stayed up until 2AM cause I was determined to get it pulled. Now what is the easiest way to separate the trans and t-case from the engine and mate them to the new engine? Any other things I should remember before dropping it back in?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Back when I was younger and stronger I just picked up the T/T and stuck it into the engine which was block on the ground so it wouldn't fall over. These days I would block the engine and use the hoist/A-frame-chainfalls and a buddy.

 

[organmountainman]

Last night I gave the engine bay a quick clean out, separated the trans from the bell housing on the old engine and got everything I needed off. Now I’m back to finishing the seals on the replacement.

For the thermostat housing which seal do I use? I was following this thread: FJ40 Thermostat Installation How To - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-thermostat-installation-how-to.994698/
Mine has the gap:

So I would think I need the rubber gasket, but it looks too narrow and the holes don’t line all the way up, while the paper one is wide enough for the whole mating area and match the bolt holes.

 

[cruiserkev]

Last night I gave the engine bay a quick clean out, separated the trans from the bell housing on the old engine and got everything I needed off. Now I’m back to finishing the seals on the replacement.

For the thermostat housing which seal do I use? I was following this thread: FJ40 Thermostat Installation How To - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-thermostat-installation-how-to.994698/
Mine has the gap:
View attachment 4137074
View attachment 4137070

So I would think I need the rubber gasket, but it looks too narrow and the holes don’t line all the way up, while the paper one is wide enough for the whole mating area and match the bolt holes.

View attachment 4137071
View attachment 4137072

I always use the paper gasket and also put a little silicone gasket maker on all the bolt threads when reassembling the housing and mounting it to the block.

 

[organmountainman]

Alright guys I’m in the middle of mating the trans to the engine and I felt the splines in the input shaft go in but I think the tip isn’t going into the pilot bearing. Just one more inch!!
Any suggestions?

 

[Pighead]

Any suggestions?

Are the two pieces close enough to get the bolts started? I have 2 of those bolts with the heads cut off to help me with the alignment. Maybe a ratchet strap around the length to pull them together as you wiggle and lift as you rotate the crank?

 

[organmountainman]

Are the two pieces close enough to get the bolts started? I have 2 of those bolts with the heads cut off to help me with the alignment. Maybe a ratchet strap around the length to pull them together as you wiggle and lift as you rotate the crank?

Got them mated! Thanks for the tip!

 

[charliemeyer007]

Lift the engine an inch or two up - grab T/T and lift a little (rocking acting) while pushing forward.

Make a pair of slide pins. Cut head off bolt. Cut a screw driver slot in the cut off end. Screw in pins, install T/T. Put in two bolts, use flat blade screwdriver to screw out guide pins, install the rest of the bolts

 

[charliemeyer007]

So back in the 70's. Buddy's Pinto wagon. We rebuilt the C6 tranny. Went to put it back in. It went in about 1/8" shy. We used bolts to suck it up. The input shaft had like an inch of flats so we though it was engaged. Wrong - sucking it up with bolts crushed the torque converter (had to get a new one). He drove that car daily for like 30 years on that rebuilt tranny.

I never use bolts to suck up fits anymore.

 

[organmountainman]

Now that everything is ready to drop in I’m gonna work on some Holley Sniper prep using the Mosley Motors kit. Anyone have any experience with that? Not sure where the best place for the O2 sensor should be.