Makes sense. Again my calculations (done with the KPI) put my offset at +8mm for 33" tires, which is quite doable. I only offset my wheels like this to bring steering geometry back to OE (of course).
I can't stand the poke/stance otherwise.
295/70/18 is a tire size that you should consider*
- Thread starter tbisaacs
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Makes sense. Again my calculations (done with the KPI) put my offset at +8mm for 33" tires, which is quite doable. I only offset my wheels like this to bring steering geometry back to OE (of course).
I can't stand the poke/stance otherwise.
I have those 295's on my 2008 LC. Too big.
Previous owner put them on.
Also removed the splash guards and hacked the inner wheel wells and t h e front bumper.
I'd like to go a size smaller if someone wants to trade.
About 5k miles on them.
Previous owner put them on.
Also removed the splash guards and hacked the inner wheel wells and t h e front bumper.
I'd like to go a size smaller if someone wants to trade.
About 5k miles on them.
It's new tire time for me and I had been debating between 275/70-18 and 285/70-18. However, after reviewing this thread I think I'm now deciding between 275/70-18 and 295/70-18 since 285s require a spacer and plastic-work anyway.
This is probably a 90% on-road truck as it's my daily driver and occasional tow vehicle (U-Haul car trailer), but I have been wanting to do more wheeling and the guys I go with are 100s and 80s with 33-35" tires. I am currently on stock LX570 suspension with 2016 LC wheels.
Am I getting ahead of myself and should I just go with the drop-in 33"s? Or just step up to the 34.5"s since these tires will be on the truck for awhile as my annual mileage is probably in the 5k/yr range? How much am I sacrificing in daily drivability?
This is probably a 90% on-road truck as it's my daily driver and occasional tow vehicle (U-Haul car trailer), but I have been wanting to do more wheeling and the guys I go with are 100s and 80s with 33-35" tires. I am currently on stock LX570 suspension with 2016 LC wheels.
Am I getting ahead of myself and should I just go with the drop-in 33"s? Or just step up to the 34.5"s since these tires will be on the truck for awhile as my annual mileage is probably in the 5k/yr range? How much am I sacrificing in daily drivability?
No sacrifice if you get the right tire. We don’t do any wheeling in our LX, so I don’t know how they’d hold up on your trails, but the Geolandar G015 has great road manners and is great in wet conditions. It doesn’t have too many lugs, though…
- Thread starter
- #285
The occurrence of people wishing they had gone with a smaller tire is very rare.
Didn’t @TeCKis300 go back to 32s?
- Thread starter
- #288
IMO, this happens when builds aren't done wholistically, without supporting mods, and with wrong geometry. It's easy to make things worse than stock.
Just a quick dummy-check before I order tires. I just picked up a '16 LC. Height doesn't seem to matter a whole lot, but it's more interference with the KDSS arm, front mud flap, and some of the plastic. I'm putting on Kings and keeping it pretty low (~2" in front, removing 3rd row). With stock wheels and 1.5" spacers, 295s should fit, no?
285/70/18 seems like an obvious pick, but selection is kinda crap and they're crazy expensive compared to 275/70 and 295/70.
285/70/18 seems like an obvious pick, but selection is kinda crap and they're crazy expensive compared to 275/70 and 295/70.
Alrighty, I attempted this install yesterday but my math is not math'n. I've got the LC wheels with a 1.25 Spidertrax spacer. I've got Toyo AT3 285/65/18 on there now but there's no way a 295/70/18 is stuffing in either front or rear wells without hitting the fenders. Thoughts? Thanks!
Have you tried?
Front wheel will tilt inwards and tuck, rear wheel will also tilt and tuck when Offroad easily
likely it won’t double stuff high enough in a drop off to let the sides hit either…
you can test this by putting it in low mode if it’s an lx and measuring how much more tuck you have before you hit a bump stop…
chances are the distance to your bump stop is far greater than the distance before any part of that rear tire touches a fender in a double tuck scenario
- Thread starter
- #294
@tbisaacs - I saw in another thread that you thought you could use a re-gear with this size. What are your current thoughts?
Counterintuitive but more spacer doesn't always help. Yes it pushes the tire out, but it also creates more tire swing which creates clearance issues especially at the front and rear of the wheel well. I recommend 1 or 1.25" spacers.
This video should help visualize the trades.
Front plastic is super easy to solve by re-pinning the liner forward. Check the links in my sig and you'll find some hints there.
Front will be fine but rears will be super close on a square double stuff. Depends on what type of driving you do. Most don't notice but if you're bombing down the desert and g-out the suspension, it'll just kiss.
My setup is about +6mm further outboard and I trimmed the rear fender lip to clear.
Good things to consider. I already had the 1.5" spacers so am using them until I go with a Tundra IFS swap next summer. I don't rock crawl, more BLM/NFS touring here in Colorado and Utah, and I keep the truck fairly light. I want tires soon-ish so don't want to go 275 only to end up wanting to go bigger in a year. Use between now and then will be mostly highway and ski trips.
If I keep it low-ish (2.5" front lift max, mayyybe a 10mm spacer in back) long term with the Tundra IFS, I'm hoping the 295s clear. I haven't seen many minimally-lifted LCs with 295s and looking for more evidence before trying.
Couple other tools at your disposal given where you're headed with the Tundra front end.
Body lift - NST Spec Body Lift Kit - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/nst-spec-body-lift-kit.1336698/
Fender roll - LX570 Build v37 for 37s - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-build-v37-for-37s.1347235/post-15647952
- Thread starter
- #299
Would definitely improve experience if a) you are heavy b) tow c) are up and down mountain passes. It hunts at hwy speeds above 75 and sometimes wish I had more engine breaking in 4lo
Not strictly necessary IMO and wouldn’t not do it because of gearing.
Mopar had a steal of a deal on tires with buy 3 get 1 free. So I went 295/70/18 on the LX.
going to run 1.25 spiders on 200 takeoffs. How much liner work are you guys doing for that 28.xx offset? I don’t care either way, just curious before I start heating and reshaping tomorrow. I know flaps and splash guard come off, and looking at it I’m assuming some relocation of the front.
Anyone had to chop the front edge of the running boards where it sits behind the flaps? Or that bracket that holds it? I’m sure I’ll find out tomorrow but didn’t see a ton of info in the thread perusing through. Unless I missed it, which wouldn’t be a first.
***Found the 35x12.5 post on @TeCKis300 that addressed those things. Anyone had to do them for 295?
going to run 1.25 spiders on 200 takeoffs. How much liner work are you guys doing for that 28.xx offset? I don’t care either way, just curious before I start heating and reshaping tomorrow. I know flaps and splash guard come off, and looking at it I’m assuming some relocation of the front.
Anyone had to chop the front edge of the running boards where it sits behind the flaps? Or that bracket that holds it? I’m sure I’ll find out tomorrow but didn’t see a ton of info in the thread perusing through. Unless I missed it, which wouldn’t be a first.
***Found the 35x12.5 post on @TeCKis300 that addressed those things. Anyone had to do them for 295?