red66toy
Supporting Vendor
The FJ62 recall, while still active, is really dead because the tanks are long gone. Only FJ60s can get their tanks replaced. Best to clean yours, get a used one, or get a long range tank.
291k mile, 10 yr parked, FJ62 rescue!
- Thread starter js0k
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I’ll definitely ask my dealer and give it a shot! A free new tank would be a nice bonus!
EDIT: darn it, maybe not, saw the comment after yours that the tanks are gone
- Thread starter
- #23
This thing looks damn good on some 33x10.5s! The stock suspension isn’t as bad as it is on my 60, so I put the wheels and tires that are going on the 60 on here until my OME comes.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
62 tanks are nla
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That truck looks pretty straight! Nice job on the motor turnaround. I think it will run great for a long time. I'm only just seeing this now, but whenever I see a rocker assembly that gunked up I just give every valve a smack with the trusty Harbor Freight orange deadblow. Sounds like that was the ticket for you too?
- Thread starter
- #26
I did that at first, and it got some rockers moving, but ultimately it was rusted together. A bunch of smacks on the lifters got what the rocker assy cleanup didn’t- but my dead blow couldn’t handle that. About to go to HF to get another ha
- Thread starter
- #28
It’s alive! And has 60psi oil pressure at idle!
I grounded a spark plug and discovered that it does indeed have spark. Tossed in some old plugs from a 2F that are in better condition than the ones that came from this engine.
I installed a harbor freight oil pressure gauge with a BSPT adapter to keep tabs on that.
The last piece of the puzzle was fuel. This is still not 100%, as the tank isn’t restored and installed, but I connected the new fuel pump and put it in a tray of gas.
After a bit of cranking it roared to life! There are a couple of leaks right off the bat, either radiator or lower rad hose, and fuel at the sending unit. Maybe where it screws to the hardline, maybe it just splashed out of my tray, I haven’t investigated further. I’m just ecstatic that it runs and sounds smooth!
Needs another valve adjustment, and I need to pick up some of those valve adjustment screws to replace the ones I smashed.
Once I fix the fuel leak and get it to hold some coolant, I’ll run it with the valve cover off to make sure oil gets to all of the rockers. Then I can move on to other stuff!
Very successful day!
I grounded a spark plug and discovered that it does indeed have spark. Tossed in some old plugs from a 2F that are in better condition than the ones that came from this engine.
I installed a harbor freight oil pressure gauge with a BSPT adapter to keep tabs on that.
The last piece of the puzzle was fuel. This is still not 100%, as the tank isn’t restored and installed, but I connected the new fuel pump and put it in a tray of gas.
After a bit of cranking it roared to life! There are a couple of leaks right off the bat, either radiator or lower rad hose, and fuel at the sending unit. Maybe where it screws to the hardline, maybe it just splashed out of my tray, I haven’t investigated further. I’m just ecstatic that it runs and sounds smooth!
Needs another valve adjustment, and I need to pick up some of those valve adjustment screws to replace the ones I smashed.
Once I fix the fuel leak and get it to hold some coolant, I’ll run it with the valve cover off to make sure oil gets to all of the rockers. Then I can move on to other stuff!
Very successful day!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #29
This has been part one of how to rescue a poor, neglected, abandoned FJ62 that has a seemingly blown engine. Time to start working on that Rockauto order.
Was the Harbor Freight Oil gauge NPT? I'm assuming the Japanese engine has BSPT.
Oil pressure is a mystery to me... FSM states it should be 4.3 psi???? you have 60 psi. But perhaps it hasn't fully warmed up so the RPMs are around 1K.
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- #32
It is, Used a BSPT adapter from the ‘zone
- Thread starter
- #33
I ran it for exactly as long as the video, it had no coolant and a large fuel leak so I shut it off quickly, and is full of a combination of mystery oils (most of which is 15W40). I’m just happy it had oil pressure!
Next time I run it, the resealed fuel tank will be installed and I’ll throw a bunch of tune up parts at it. Replace all bad hoses, change filters, new spark plugs, belts, etc. Then I’ll pull the valve cover and make sure oil gets to every rocker.
- Thread starter
- #34
My original concern was a clogged pickup aka no oil pressure. This debunks that. Could a clog elsewhere cause 60psi oil pressure? Maybe, but I think it’s just the cold thick oil.
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- #35
Great ideas Mike, I’m gonna order up a T stat and I think my radiator might be leaking. Will call around to see if anyone still repairs them before biting the bullet on a new one, though!
Granted the cluster oil gauge is not very accurate, but on a cold start it differs by quite a bit to when it finally warms up and goes dow to 650 rpms. For now it's a small detail.
- Thread starter
- #38
That’s exactly what I’d like to do! I think a buddy’s uncle does it locally, if not anymore I’m sure there are some in Houston, an hour away from me.
- Thread starter
- #39
Well, decided to spend a few minutes on Touch of Grey this afternoon despite claiming I wouldn’t until it got a rockauto tuneup.
Fixed the fuel leak by tightening the fuel pump holder (or whatever it’s called) to hardline connection. Wasn’t even close to tight.
I then pulled the valve cover and plugged the hoses that go to it.
Cranked it up and she started right up. Observed the rockers and oil was coming out of them. Score!
Still 60 psi oil pressure at cold idle, but seeing as how oil is getting all the way to the top, I’m not concerned.
There was a lot of smoke from the fuel rail area, but I’m thinking that could just be the residual juices I spilled earlier.
Also, there seemed to be a lot of radiator and overflow pressure. Since it was bone dry maybe that was partially from the system bleeding, but I just had to deal with this on my 60 and it was a blown HG. Not gonna overthink it right now, but might look into it more.
For now I’m going to attempt to salvage my smashed valve adjuster screws, because getting OEM ones shipped to me would be like $20.
Fixed the fuel leak by tightening the fuel pump holder (or whatever it’s called) to hardline connection. Wasn’t even close to tight.
I then pulled the valve cover and plugged the hoses that go to it.
Cranked it up and she started right up. Observed the rockers and oil was coming out of them. Score!
Still 60 psi oil pressure at cold idle, but seeing as how oil is getting all the way to the top, I’m not concerned.
There was a lot of smoke from the fuel rail area, but I’m thinking that could just be the residual juices I spilled earlier.
Also, there seemed to be a lot of radiator and overflow pressure. Since it was bone dry maybe that was partially from the system bleeding, but I just had to deal with this on my 60 and it was a blown HG. Not gonna overthink it right now, but might look into it more.
For now I’m going to attempt to salvage my smashed valve adjuster screws, because getting OEM ones shipped to me would be like $20.
- Thread starter
- #40
Last night after posting the above I salvaged the orig rocker screws, put em back on and adjusted. Quieted it down! Need to adjust the valves again, but that’ll be when the rad is out and getting repaired. Or will it? Might just JB weld the rad for now. Not much else to do on it until my delayed fuel tank sealer and the rockauto order I haven’t made yet gets here. I just want to bandaid the radiator so I can get it up to temp to do an oil change and proper valve adjustment.
