Looks like you'll be asking santa for a drill press. A regular drill would also work, but might as well ask...
2020 Knuckle Therapy
- Thread starter HardyDanger
- Start date
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Can never go wrong with more tools. 
Get a floor stand model (1/2") if you are going to get one. Might as well go big.
Get a floor stand model (1/2") if you are going to get one. Might as well go big.
- Thread starter
- #63
LoL. Kids woke up at 4:43am and started in on Xmas chaos.
I don’t think 1/2” drill press is going to fit under the tree or in the garage, or at least it won’t without my wife kicking my
first. I have access to one at work, what speed would you run it at? Probably, need to make some kind of jig to hold it in place?
Also looking for knuckle PN 43211-60120 there’s one listed in classified in San Francisco, but the guy hasn’t been active since 2018 and another in the desert so, back-up: Partsouq....or flea bay.
Will give it a shot drilling it out, sounds like loads of fun, more therapy and a slag pile of melted drill bits!!
I don’t think 1/2” drill press is going to fit under the tree or in the garage, or at least it won’t without my wife kicking my
first. I have access to one at work, what speed would you run it at? Probably, need to make some kind of jig to hold it in place? Also looking for knuckle PN 43211-60120 there’s one listed in classified in San Francisco, but the guy hasn’t been active since 2018 and another in the desert so, back-up: Partsouq....or flea bay.
Will give it a shot drilling it out, sounds like loads of fun, more therapy and a slag pile of melted drill bits!!
Simple speed calculation for low alloy steel is 3.82*55/drill diameter.
The 55 is variable based on HSS or Colbalt or Carbide tool material and the strength of the material. can vary from (20-200).
I set you up with a nice conservative number for HSS. If the chips come out straw or blue, back off the RPMs.
Any oil is better than none for a cutting fluid, use what ever you've got laying around.
Feed down hard enough to make curly chips, don't be too light with the force, you don't want to make dust.
The 55 is variable based on HSS or Colbalt or Carbide tool material and the strength of the material. can vary from (20-200).
I set you up with a nice conservative number for HSS. If the chips come out straw or blue, back off the RPMs.
Any oil is better than none for a cutting fluid, use what ever you've got laying around.
Feed down hard enough to make curly chips, don't be too light with the force, you don't want to make dust.
Well, I had two out of four broken off from mine, one more had fallen out and the one remaining was almost ready to fall out.While cleaning the housing, I noticed the two studs that had the loose nuts were also loose, so thought I’d back those out to inspect the threads....nope. Snap. Snap.
View attachment 2534327
I used a left hand drill and part way through, it started unscrewing and they came all the way out.
When I put them back in, I did the unthinkable and used red Loctite for installation. I just know that if they ever break off now, I will have to use a torch to heat them to 400°F to soften the Loctite before I can unscrew the remainder.
Odds are they will unscrew easily because the have been coated in lubricant and they broke due to being loose and they sheared.
Try from the inside of the knuckle to see if they are loose.
- Thread starter
- #66
It’s a Christmas miracle.
Theybeen soaking in WD40 specialist penetrating oil.
And with a brand new 5/32 bit, once the bit got a good bite it spun the broken stud out through the bottom of the hole!
So many thanks
to all for the moral support and suggestions...turns out the first step was the easiest. 
This one was the tricky one, had a ridge right through the center from the break. I got at it with a tungsten bit on the dremel and made a center depression for the bit to sit in and the center punched in. Then, this one spun right out too.
Theybeen soaking in WD40 specialist penetrating oil.
And with a brand new 5/32 bit, once the bit got a good bite it spun the broken stud out through the bottom of the hole!
So many thanks
to all for the moral support and suggestions...turns out the first step was the easiest.
This one was the tricky one, had a ridge right through the center from the break. I got at it with a tungsten bit on the dremel and made a center depression for the bit to sit in and the center punched in. Then, this one spun right out too.
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- Thread starter
- #67
Clean as a whistle.
- Thread starter
- #68
And back together. Easy peasy.
greased my balls and races before reassembly.
I did this right? With the little step in the splines up? My birf inner race and cage looked looked totally different than the FSM illustrations, but this way seemed to make most sense. And no slop between cage and birf in this orientation
greased my balls and races before reassembly.
I did this right? With the little step in the splines up? My birf inner race and cage looked looked totally different than the FSM illustrations, but this way seemed to make most sense. And no slop between cage and birf in this orientation
Look in to the Bolt Buster induction tool to avoid snapping bolts and studs.
- Thread starter
- #70
All good, they’re out! They snapped because the bolts on the steering arm got loose and fatigued them, user error for sure. The other six didn’t put up a fight.
nice recovery!
- Thread starter
- #72
Ok. Next item.
spindles.
this is by far the worse of the two. Passenger side. This one had a loose preload on the bearing when I bought it.
second pic is macro shot of a ridge where the seal goes. Is the one in the middle “normal”. The outside ridge is not present on the one that came off drivers side.
spindles.
this is by far the worse of the two. Passenger side. This one had a loose preload on the bearing when I bought it.
second pic is macro shot of a ridge where the seal goes. Is the one in the middle “normal”. The outside ridge is not present on the one that came off drivers side.
What's the BOTTOM of the spindle look like?
Spindle groove question
I'm doing a front axle rebuild on a '94 FJZ80. I'm inspecting the spindles and I see two issues: 1. The 54mm lock nuts on the passenger side were very loose and the bearings appear to have spun on the spindle leaving scoring marks. I'm definitely going to replace the claw washer, but I'm...
forum.ih8mud.com
I ended up replacing mine with OEM Genuine Toyota 43401-60081 (4340160081) SPINDLE SUB-ASSY, STEERING KNUCKLE.
An ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight works wonders on cleaning bolts and other small parts. Fill the tank with lots of degreaser set the time, turn on the heater and let it do its work. Bolts come out looking almost brand new.
- Thread starter
- #76
Ha. Sorry. Total noob move. I posted the wrong view. Took me a min.
Here’s the bottom in profile. The grooves are very subtle and more pronounced at the 6 o’clock position.
I fit the bearings and there was zero movement/wiggle in any of them. Been looking at all the other threads, and comparatively it Seems like I just run them?
so. Blue arrows show where wear would typical show up? Correct?
Red arrows are showing the difference on that area where the seal is. On B, this is where the burr is... @BILT4ME i think I saw in another thread you said to debur this so it doesn’t tear up the seal?
again a macro shot of B’s burr and the groove where the seal rides? Is this normal?
meanwhile, birfs are repacked and swapped. I couldn’t get the zip tie or the hose clamp method to work, so just went with Otramm’s fiddle with tiny screwdriver and push the ring in, then slam home. Worked like a charm on first try for both.
Here’s the bottom in profile. The grooves are very subtle and more pronounced at the 6 o’clock position.
I fit the bearings and there was zero movement/wiggle in any of them. Been looking at all the other threads, and comparatively it Seems like I just run them?
so. Blue arrows show where wear would typical show up? Correct?
Red arrows are showing the difference on that area where the seal is. On B, this is where the burr is... @BILT4ME i think I saw in another thread you said to debur this so it doesn’t tear up the seal?
again a macro shot of B’s burr and the groove where the seal rides? Is this normal?
meanwhile, birfs are repacked and swapped. I couldn’t get the zip tie or the hose clamp method to work, so just went with Otramm’s fiddle with tiny screwdriver and push the ring in, then slam home. Worked like a charm on first try for both.
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I've never had any luck with the hose clamp or zip tie method. Small screwdriver and a pick gets it done.
Can you catch your fingernail on the grooves on the spindle?
When preloading your wheel bearings,YMMV but the FSM method isn't sufficient. I work on something like the following:
1) tighten inner nut to 50 FT-LBS to make sure everything is seated.
2) Back off and retorque to 30 FT-LBS
3) rotate the hub a few times in both directions
4) check torque again, keep repeating 3 and 4 until no change in torque values
5) complete the rest as per FSM
Plenty of vehicles done with this method, most making plenty more horses than stock and never had one loosen.
Can you catch your fingernail on the grooves on the spindle?
When preloading your wheel bearings,YMMV but the FSM method isn't sufficient. I work on something like the following:
1) tighten inner nut to 50 FT-LBS to make sure everything is seated.
2) Back off and retorque to 30 FT-LBS
3) rotate the hub a few times in both directions
4) check torque again, keep repeating 3 and 4 until no change in torque values
5) complete the rest as per FSM
Plenty of vehicles done with this method, most making plenty more horses than stock and never had one loosen.
Yep!
Deburr that leading edge so it doesn't cut your seal. Use REALLY fine emory cloth.
Also use emory cloth on the area the seal will be riding. That groove is pretty deep, so when you install the seal in the back of the hub, leave it proud of the seat (not all the way in) so that the seal will run on a new surface.
Do your wheel bearings like @AussieHJCruiser says.
Make sure to lube the seal and seal surface before installation.
Oh, and the rest of that spindle looks fine.
- Thread starter
- #79
Stellar. Will follow that method.
Now....Does @NLXTACY make a wheel seal under-driver?
I have to say it is extremely satisfying to drive home the inner seal with your tool and feel / hear the tool resonate when it hit home.
for today.
I’m in a holding pattern for today until the new lower studs arrive and or brake lines show up.
btw-not a peep from the HOA. I have handed out a bunch of beers from the garage fridge to a few neighbors passing by.
Now....Does @NLXTACY make a wheel seal under-driver?
I have to say it is extremely satisfying to drive home the inner seal with your tool and feel / hear the tool resonate when it hit home.
for today.
I’m in a holding pattern for today until the new lower studs arrive and or brake lines show up.
btw-not a peep from the HOA. I have handed out a bunch of beers from the garage fridge to a few neighbors passing by.
I know the feeling, anticipated simply repacking the bearings and found the DS full of metal flakes, the outer bearing spun and there is fretting on the taper race.
I'm in a holding pattern too until my wheel bearings show up. Gonna do all four corners; figure they've been in there 240Kmi, they don't owe anybody anything.
Good idea with the beers
, a little bribery never hurt anything. LOL