Take them apart. Easier and faster to clean and can also be thoroughly check all the surfaces for wear. It's a right of passage to become a real Land Cruiser owner.
Definitely take them apart. I use the old 2 in pvc pipe method. Pull off the c clip, stuff some rags in the other side of the pipe and slam that sucker on the ground. The inner shaft will separate easily and fall on to the rags. The inner c clip will most likely break so make sure you have a couple on you.
Seems silly to go this far and not fully clean everything.
I just finished this tonight, took my time over the last three days. 2.5 rolls of paper towels later and she's sitting on her own feet again. I did new rotors and pads as well and they are making more noise than I expected. Hoping they'll wear in soon, I only went around the block before coming in and low speed stops grind a little.
I just finished this tonight, took my time over the last three days. 2.5 rolls of paper towels later and she's sitting on her own feet again. I did new rotors and pads as well and they are making more noise than I expected. Hoping they'll wear in soon, I only went around the block before coming in and low speed stops grind a little.
Bed in the new brakes and it will sound better. From 50mph slow down hard until almost stopped, repeat a few times until things get hot and smell a bit. Then drive for a while with limited braking to cool things off.
Only problem with the Jonesy video tutorial imo is his choice and amount of Moly grease he uses. Use at least 30oz. of moly on each side in the birf and knuckle.
Well. Did some work today despite myself.
First, made a ghetto parts washer.
two milk jugs.
poked holes in the bottom of one, cut the other in half. Then tape them together.
the one cut in half acts as a funnel to direct the water to the catch basin.
Parts go in the one with the holes in the bottom. Then pressure washer with the rotating spray pattern, no overspray or flying grease. And all sluice into the five gallon bucket for recovery.
Results at bottom.
While cleaning the housing, I noticed the two studs that had the loose nuts were also loose, so thought I’d back those out to inspect the threads....nope. Snap. Snap.
Well straight up, don't waste your time with an easy out. Then you'll have a soft broken bolt jammed with a hard broken easy out.
Drill the core of the studs out with a small drill and work your way up till the remnants of the threads can be picked out.
Get a center punch and mark them as close to center as you can, once you get a punch mark on the end you can steer it around until visually centered by tilting the punch and tapping with a hammer. To help get the punch aligned, put the cap on with the remaining two studs and build up the diameter of the punch with masking tape till it just fits in the hole of the broken stud.
If you have a piece of steel gas line laying around you might be able to make a drill bushing that drops in the hole and will help guide the starter drill. Anything that will keep the drill on center is better than trying to eyeball it.
Too bad your 3K miles away, we could toss that on my mill and make short work of it.
If you have a welder, could also put a nut that fits in the hole and weld the center of the nut to the broken stud. Then weld on a bolt or another nut if it still isn't tall enough. The heat from the welding really helps, should come right out.
