Spindle groove question

[WCBlueSky]

I'm doing a front axle rebuild on a '94 FJZ80. I'm inspecting the spindles and I see two issues:
1. The 54mm lock nuts on the passenger side were very loose and the bearings appear to have spun on the spindle leaving scoring marks. I'm definitely going to replace the claw washer, but I'm wondering if the spindle can be saved. The new bearings don't seem to have play on the spindle. I'm planning to see if the bearings hold preload, or is this an exercise in futility? Any other suggestions?
2. There is also a small grove on both DS and PS spindles from the grease seal. I'm planning to either underdrive the seal leaving it about 2mm proud, or overdrive by 2mm. Thoughts on which is better?

 

[richardlillard1]

That’s usually how I approach it. If the bearing doesn’t hold preload, then the spindle is typically the culprit. That said, I’m pretty sure my spindles look similar and the bearings are staying tight, but I have seen others develop issues.

 

[WCBlueSky]

Another question: how do you tell if the bearing is holding preload vs spinning on the spindle, do you have to use a fish scale? I've read that most people here just torque down the locking nuts to some pre-set ft-lb value instead of using a fish scale as detailed in the FSM. Could I mark the bearing position on the spindle, torque it down, then loosen everything and check if the bearing spun from the mark?

 

[-Spike-]

If you reuse it, de-bur the leading edge of the hub seal surface. I learned the hard way that edge will mess up a new seal.

 

[-Spike-]

Another question: how do you tell if the bearing is holding preload vs spinning on the spindle, do you have to use a fish scale? I've read that most people here just torque down the locking nuts to some pre-set ft-lb value instead of using a fish scale as detailed in the FSM. Could I mark the bearing position on the spindle, torque it down, then loosen everything and check if the bearing spun from the mark?

No. The concern is that the bearing race will loosen up and spin on the spindle after some use. All you can do is check for play occasionally by lifting the wheel and pushing/pulling on the top and bottom.

The alternative to using a fish scale is to simply tighten the inner nut to 20-30 ft/lbs depending on how big a tire you run and how hard you beat the truck offroad (after running it to ~54 ft/lbs a few times with hub rotations in between).

 

[WCBlueSky]

In searching I've seen some people who staked the spindle, and other mentions of Loctite. For anyone who has done this, did it hold up?

 

[BILT4ME]

In searching I've seen some people who staked the spindle, and other mentions of Loctite. For anyone who has done this, did it hold up?

Don't stake the spindle.

If anything, I'd be most concerned about the sealing surface for the hub seal. Definitely deburr and round that leading edge so you don't cut the new seal as you slide on the hub.

I don't see any grooving on the spindle from the bearings, but the outside edge of the inner bearing support is very ground down.

I think it could be usable, but don't be surprised if the bearings don't hold torque.

Get new washers and nuts as well. Torque to 35 LB-FT on the inner nut while rotating, then torque outer nut to 45 LB-FT.

 

[WCBlueSky]

Per another forum members advice, I just checked the outer bearing surface on the spindle and there is a "step" from the outer bearing spinning that catches my fingernail. When I put the new bearing on the wear surface it has a ton of play. I think these spindles are now trail spares.

 

[BILT4ME]

Per another forum members advice, I just checked the outer bearing surface on the spindle and there is a "step" from the outer bearing spinning that catches my fingernail. When I put the new bearing on the wear surface it has a ton of play. I think these spindles are now trail spares.

View attachment 2169475

Yeah, with the edge on there, junk it.