Builds 2008 LX Live Camera Car and Overlanding Build.

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Tested the range on the Pakite transmitter and receiver that will be going on the remote control camera car today, and it isn’t bad. This is near how far I can go before needing to move the car closer to the RC car. Will test it again with receiver outside of the car and maintaining line of sight, to see how much further it can go under more ideal conditions.


note to self: change broadcast from 720P to 1080P in areas with better connections. Also, begin search for ways to extend the signal for the drone-mounted action/webcam.
 
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And awning is out, I’m really looking forward to the LED strip that is coming with the replacement! And yes, I can fit through the moonroof really easily. Can’t say the same for Tiger.

 
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Very exciting week for me, long post but these will be a thing of the past soon once the live stream setup is done. This whole post can easily translate into a 2 minute video or less.

I started the group buy post for IceCo fridges last night, and already generating good interest. They are sending me a VL45 to review for mud and it should be here in a few days!!


Also the Remote Control rock crawler truck (camera truck), GoPro 7 (going to need the hyper image stabilization for Tiger/RC truck), Hollyland Mars 300 hdmi transmitter and receiver, magnetic antenna mount, and Ram Pod iii laptop mount will be here this week. These are all going to come in very handy for my camera setup that I am pushing to complete by LCDC.

Any extra money I get this month will be put towards what I need for the cellular bonding hardware and 1 month prepaid for few USB cellular data sticks (which provider depends on the coverage of the LCDC area, basically want to bond 2-3 of the strongest signals). I am exploring several options in terms of which bonding hardware, which software/bonding service, and which data plans are most cost efficient. I am also exploring the option of building my own bonding device for cheaper than the LiveU solo, or the Mushroom Portabella. Prebuilt solutions are nice but chances are the price is too high. I will reach out again to try for a sponsorship, and if not I will likely build my own. If I want live feed of at least 1080P while on the trails, then I think this is the best chance I have.

Mounting the dock alone, and hooking up certain things ahead of time, will save me a lot of setup time and move me a lot closer to my goal of being able to go live on the fly. Special moments can happen fast and I don’t want to miss it while having to prepare to go live, nor do I have time to record then edit then publish. I have footage from 5 months ago that I keep telling myself I’d crop, compile, edit and publish... maybe 5 more months. I want to do everything in one take, as in record and publish at same time and so I choose to go with a live feed

I also picked up a few routers for 5 bucks each from Craigslist, for bridging and extending Wi-fi signal/building a network consisting of portable routers (USB powered). It’s a cheap way to extend my Wi-fi range. By placing these certain distances apart on the ground after bridging them, I should be able to take any Wi-fi signal and send it further with, essentially, a trail of cheap USB-powered routers.
 
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Also Techstream cable is here so I will be trying the .8” lift with the Height Offset Utility tool in Techstream this week, following @radman ’s guide. I will stream it and try to highlight the relevant parts, as well as capture my monitor/windows to show the work on the laptop/Techstream.

On a side note, I am looking for interior lighting solutions. Nothing too expensive or too fancy, but something bright enough to light up the car for the cameras at night, and something with some dim lighting for when I only need a little bit of light.

I wonder if there are USB powered ones? I’m running low on 12V outlets, so it’s probably time to look into @TeCKis300 ‘s mod for the rear panel above the 115V outlet.
 
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Also Techstream cable is here so I will be trying the .8” lift with the Height Offset Utility tool in Techstream this week, following @radman ’s guide. I will stream it and try to highlight the relevant parts, as well as capture my monitor/windows to show the work on the laptop/Techstream.
Remember to take screen shots of your settings before you change anything. Find some level ground (like the warehouse floors), be ready for an alignment ( i think you're shopping for tires, right?), and and don't forget to drive around after you make changes. The AHC thread has somehow morphed into a "go as big as you can with modifying the brackets", but wrangle it back in if you need help with anything. also, depending on your before measurements, you might want to perform the sensor lift by moving the brackets and then using AHC offset to level out...
 
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Remember to take screen shots of your settings before you change anything. Find some level ground (like the warehouse floors), be ready for an alignment ( i think you're shopping for tires, right?), and and don't forget to drive around after you make changes. The AHC thread has somehow morphed into a "go as big as you can with modifying the brackets", but wrangle it back in if you need help with anything. also, depending on your before measurements, you might want to perform the sensor lift by moving the brackets and then using AHC offset to level out...
Noted, and thank you. I have been eyeing the bracket replacement but been paranoid about taking it outside of factory parameters. I’m going to give that a lot more thought before I decide In either direction. For now, this .8 is nice! I have read about it in the manual but did not think you can trick the system into staying in the extra high mode for good, brilliant!

I am a long ways from affording tires and rims, but I do have a lifetime alignment with Firestone, and they “said” I can take it in as many times as I want at the local shop. I only used it once (well twice because they rushed the first time and... it was terrible, but they fixed it next alignment).

I also have done the sensor lift, and have measured before, after my sensor lift. If I remember correctly, the front left was lower by maybe a half inch. The left side in general was lower than right. I need to look up the proper way to measure as well.

Just to confirm, because sequencing matters:
- adjust tires to even pressure (bought a cheap digital gauge for that)
- find level ground (warehouse floor)
- confirm all sensors are slid all the way up or down
- use AHC utility to level everything out
- then go to your thread for the rest of the instructions
- drive around and test, then check Techstream numbers again?
- alignment

I will double check with your thread, or you, to make sure before I do it. Will likely do it this weekend so I can get the warehouse floor to myself. On weekdays I maybe get 30 mins to an hour tops, if I do it right at closing time, so prob best to wait.
 
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I need to look up the proper way to measure as well.
Just be consistent. I like to use the top of the center caps up to fender rather than center of cap. Top of the cap also gives a nice little groove to stick the end of the tape measure in.

All this should be in the thread, but just a quick refresher:

Roll your driver window down, get out, close the door, and let the rig sit for 30 seconds so it can level out, then take your measurements. You can leave the rig running and work each corner as you go, or shut it off and take all your measurements and then input them. Make sure you're well ventilated if you leave it running in the warehouse.

You only need to drive around after you make the changes of you want to verify the new measurements. If it's a small offset, you won't see the rig move so driving around after gets everything settled. If it's a big change, like .8, you'll actually hear the pump kick off and you'll see the lift.
 
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Yessir, one replacement awning with LED light strip included (they come preinstalled now)!!

Also, I will be at 7500 since last oil change soon. I know I said I would test the 20k filter and run it to 10k, but that was with the assumption I would do 5k oil changes. I decided to take it to 7500 to hit an even 200k, so will be doing both filter and oil this time. Last oil change was also done at the 7500 mark for both filter and oil (used FRAM 20k filter, and Mobil 1 Annual Protection). This time I’m using the Mobil 1 20k filter (because free remote control car deal) and Mobil 1 Extended Protection.

From here I plan on oil change at 205k, then oil and filter at 210k. I’ll document filter this time at 7.5k, and run it by you guys to get second thoughts on taking next one to 10k (with 5k oil intervals).

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Also picked up a bicycle tire patch kit, as a cheap and effective way to patch the holes in my exped. Soap and water in a spray bottle was definitely the easiest way to find leaks in your air mattress.
 
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Did you get in on the AC200 pre-order? Saw it's up on IGG now.
Nope. Spent my money on camera gear instead, can’t wait to test it out when it gets here! Got a hero pro 7 off eBay for the hyper stabilization feature, to go on the RC truck or Tiger, and also for smoother live feeds when I am driving. Also picked up a second transmitter and receiver for another wireless feed, a laptop dock and mount, antenna mount, Techstream cable and a few things off craigslist. I’m sure another deal deal will pop up for power banks, but yeah that was definitely a good deal.
 
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@robmobile73 Thanks for this. The more I consider it the more I like the idea. I have pushed off the idea of a generator due to most of them being too big/heavy or too loud or too expensive, and this one really is making me reconsider. It’s not exactly quiet, but it’s something I can certainly live with when we are talking about the alternative being that I sleep in an oven on some days. It’s also quiet when relatively speaking, compared to other gas generators. The weight factor is a big plus.

I’m going to try to squeeze it in this months budget. Thanks a lot for the great advice brother.

On another note, my RAM Pod iii universal vehicle laptop mount is coming in today. I hope it will work! Also been so busy that I haven’t gotten the replacement awning in, so I’m going to install that today after I do the RAM mount. Time to start figuring out how I want to mount the permanent cameras that will always stay in the vehicle.

My Hollyland Mars came in... and compared to the Pakite this thing is another class of its own. You really do get what you pay for here. The Pakite is designed to send a Movie to your big screen TV from another source, and can double as a live hdmi camera monitor (how i use it), But the Hollyland is actually designed to be used as a live camera monitor. Unfortunately I have to buy the batteries seperate (10 bucks for the rebrand on amazon, instead of 70 each for the official Sony batteries), before I can test it. The Pakite requires external power (Small power bank and 5V USB adapter), So I have to figure out how to mount the power bank to it, whereas the Hollyland is already equipped to take Sony DSLR NP L/F batteries. It also feels way more sturdy, much more compact while weighing more. I’m very happy that I didn’t miss the sale on this, as I get the feeling this is about to become one of my favorite pieces of camera/broadcasting equipment.

I also need a n female to n female adapter for my Wi-fi antenna setups as well. Other than missing minor pieces of the puzzle, the camera setup is coming along nicely. I’m super stoked about the RC Truck coming in today! Can’t wait to play with some new camera angles!

I also got an amazing deal on a slightly used GoPro 7, but unfortunately the silver has no HDMI output. Thankfully , they make usb c to hdmi adapters that can carry hdmi signals So need to wait on that before the GoPro 7 Silver can go wireless.

We are getting much closer! The only big piece of the puzzle left is the bonder hardware and bonding software/service, and cellular data sticks, as well as figuring out camera mounting locations And mounting hardware needed, if any. In total there will be 3 USB webcams, 2 wireless action cams that will serve as wireless webcams, 1 360 degree camera, and at least 3 action cams on the outside of the vehicle that will be wired into the car, and 2 action cams that will serve as dash cams in the front (1 pointing each direction). I could probably use some help trying to figure mounting and wiring out.

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Don't forget the SPP6 boost capacitor to add in to your AC unit. This Capacitor must be in the line before the power switch so and you must run the genset for 20-30 seconds to charge up the capacitor prior to turning on the AC. Also if your AC compressor trips the generator off, you have to turn off the AC fire up the genset and let it run 20-30 seconds to charge up the capacitor before turning on the AC. This procedure worked fine with my manual/analog $99 walmart 5000bTU window unit.
 
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Don't forget the SPP6 boost capacitor to add in to your AC unit. This Capacitor must be in the line before the power switch so and you must run the genset for 20-30 seconds to charge up the capacitor prior to turning on the AC. Also if your AC compressor trips the generator off, you have to turn off the AC fire up the genset and let it run 20-30 seconds to charge up the capacitor before turning on the AC. This procedure worked fine with my manual/analog $99 walmart 5000bTU window unit.
Got it boss. Thank you so much I’m very much looking forward to trying this! How did you mount your window unit or where did you place it?
 
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Got it boss. Thank you so much I’m very much looking forward to trying this! How did you mount your window unit or where did you place it?
Don't mean to sound bossy just don't want you to buy the generator on my advice and think it will work for you without the capacitor. I can't guarantee it will work for you. I learned about adding a boost cap. to run AC's with small generators off of the internet. I tried it and it worked for me.

I used the window unit on my boat. If I was going to put it in a LC I'd make a window shape piece of plywood with a square cutout for the AC unit. Use 1/2" pipe insulation around the edge and some cushion foam under the AC and simply hang it out the window resting on the window sill ensuring that the rear of the AC sit's slightly lower than the front so the condensation drains out the back like it's supposed to.
 
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The 40 dollar RAM mount did not come with a tough tray, which is great because the universal bracket that came with my Havis Dock ($100), fits the RAM bracket. This saves me from adding the thickness of the RAM tough tray to the mix, and saves me from being stuck with a big tray that I don’t need. Just missing 4 nuts and the dock will be secured on there, and then the laptop just snaps in and can be locked with a key. I am very happy with this setup! It’s a good balance between sturdy and flexibility.

Total Cost was less than $200 for both dock and mount With tax and shipping, and this feels like it can keep my things secured while the car takes a beating.



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Don't mean to sound bossy just don't want you to buy the generator on my advice and think it will work for you without the capacitor. I can't guarantee it will work for you. I learned about adding a boost cap. to run AC's with small generators off of the internet. I tried it and it worked for me.

I used the window unit on my boat. If I was going to put it in a LC I'd make a window shape piece of plywood with a square cutout for the AC unit. Use 1/2" pipe insulation around the edge and some cushion foam under the AC and simply hang it out the window resting on the window sill ensuring that the rear of the AC sit's slightly lower than the front so the condensation drains out the back like it's supposed to.
I didn’t take it that way at all brother, no worries there. I really do appreciate the time and advice as this has been on the back of my mind for some time.

The capacitor makes a lot of sense for something that cycles between low and high current draw, where the peak draw can be slightly higher than the capability of the generator. I have considered it before but for electric power banks, and I have used them in my sound systems before (to help power a 13.5 inch JL W7, ahh the good old days!).

I’m trying to picture how it stays secured in place with what you described, going to have to read that a few more times. What keeps it from tipping over and falling out of the car? Total noob here and I don’t have any pride left (or at least trying to do away with what’s left) so don’t worry about offending me, especially when it’s clear you are trying to help. Not to mention this is extremely helpful, and I really do appreciate you taking the time to explain.
 
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She’s coming back together. Awning officially on driver side so I can access all my power outlets/banks easily while in awning.

I’d say drawers are coming in august for sure, because this isn’t even all my things. I have on several occasions ended up with piles like this, and have to reasses need vs want in order to reduce it down to something more manageable.

I’m enjoying all this head room though, and going to try and incorporate a little spot into the drawer build where I can sit on the floor or close to it.

Im loving the Laptop mount By the way, it’s been very helpful so far. It’s nice to not have to find a new spot for the laptop each time, and with that comes a ton of plugging and unplugging when you have as much camera gear as I do. Now I just dock and go for the most part. The setup required to go live/start recording went down to several minutes, vs like 15-30 mins or more before. Eventually it will be virtually no setup required.

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Good morning! Tiger needs a few more hours, as always. Just an update, My exped has become the best bed I’ve ever had. Even if I end up settling in one place, I think I’d still use it over a traditional bed. I’m glad I caught it when the price was low enough for me to even consider it. At full price I may never know just how good this bed feels to lay on! Now I wouldn’t want to go without it.

Anyways, I tested the Wi-fi antenna and bullet and etc, and decided to return the entire setup. The Magnetic Mount was super sketch, even at 10mph I felt like it would tip over. Antenna was too heavy and even at that size and strength it only went like 200 ft before signal was too unstable. I decided that instead of trying to patch solutions here and there that may or may not work in different situations, I decided that it’s best to just commit to the only solution that I know will work; cellular bonding. It is the most expensive option for sure, but it’s also the only option. Time to face the facts and stop wasting money on trying different approaches. The money I get back from this will go towards tires and wheels, and any leftover money after the cellular bonding hardware/software/data stuff as well.


@grinchy While we are on the subject of it being most cost efficient to get it right the first time, are these the ones? GUYS IF YOU SEE THIS POST AND ARE LOOKING, PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THIS SET lol.

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Yes those RWs will work. They're not 'the ones' for me, but many here love them. Light oem and capable. Downside is $
Yeah the money is definitely why I don’t already have a set. I am curious, don’t forget I’m total tire and rims noob here, what are the ones for you? I am only aware of a few variations; This one, 18 inch ones, and one with a different ring around it? I honestly don’t know the difference, other than I think one drains water better from the rim well on the inside.

This set is 5 for 1250, I figured at 250 per wheel, if he agrees to meet me In LCDC with them, that is not much more than what I would’ve spent on ICONs or another brand, and I don’t imagine that they’d come close when you consider everything.

I just want to make sure I am not missing anything that would make me reconsider that this will be the last set of rims I’ll ever need for this 200 and the next. Thanks Professor.
 
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