2001 LX 470 - won’t drive in ‘High’ (1 Viewer)

[mtlobo76]

hey friends. New to the forum and 100 series, but purchased a 2001 LX recently for my son. 95k miles on it. Super clean, looks like it was literally driven to the grocery store once a week, interior is 9.9/10, buuuut, the rig only drives in low. When in high, makes a pretty disturbing grinding noise. Anyone have a similar problem or heard of anyone...and am I going to be dropping a new trans in this thing? Hoping it can be repaired without too much expense.

Second question, when driving in Low, the oil pressure gauge reads pretty high. Is that just because of the higher RPM? Normal?

Thanks to anyone who replies.

 

[riffman12]

I thought you meant the suspension wouldn't drive in high mode, bit you're saying the transmission makes a grinding sound when it's not in low range?

Hard to say without hearing it, but I would start with the easy stuff. Change the t case fluid, poke around underneath and see if anything is rubbing.

For oil pressure, low range will make it run higher with the high rpms. 1/2 to 3/4 on the gauge

 

[aging fleet]

If it shifts through the gears ok in low range, it seems like the issue has more to do with the transfer case.

Will it drive at all when in high range or do you just get the grinding noise? If it won’t move when in high range, does anything change when you lock the center differential?

 

[2001LC]

Assume your speak about the transfer case lever (H-N-L) to the right of the transmission shifter (P, R, N, D, 2, 1).

Sound like your not getting the transfer case into Hi. With foot on brake, key on, put transmission in N and push very hard on the transfer case level forward to H. Give lever a hard hit into H, with palm of your hand to pop in if need be.

 

[Ohthetrees]

Almost certainly transfer case and not transmission.

 

[mtlobo76]

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate your help. It’s at a local transmission shop. Hoping it’s a transfer case issue!

I attempted to aggressively push the shift lever into H while in neutral (as recommended above). It goes in, but when I shift into drive or reverse, it grinds and never will engage.

 

[OutoftheMud]

Put it in high and lock the center diff. If it drives okay, probably something to do with the front hub/cv joints/front diff...

Help Please - 'Broke' 4-High During Extraction from Snow Bank Check out this thread I believe its the problem your having

 

[2001LC]

Doesn't sound good. Working fine "L", then grind in "H" if actually going into H.

Lets us know what they say?

If lucky it's a hub flange.

 

[Julian Stead]

Got to agree with @OutoftheMud, it is most probably the drive flanges/CV and putting it in low is engaging the CDL. Just engage CDL in high to confirm or look to see if the CV’s are spinning.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

x2, don't let the tranny shop scam you. More than likely it's the c-clip on the end of the CV has slipped off.

 

[Ohthetrees]

On my 2001, low range does not automatically engage center differential lock. Maybe other years are different.

 

[Leandro]

I put my money on the front drivetrain (diff, CV, etc)
when switch to 4L the center diff locks and sends power 50/50 to front and rear.

 

[mtlobo76]

Great responses man. This forum is incredible. What would one expect to pay for this repair/replacement? Worst case scenario.

 

[mtlobo76]

Local shop will rebuild the transfer case for $2600. Says a new one is $4500. Calling big time BS on that. I have a grease monkey friend who I’m willing to ask to help me do it. Is this a job we can do??

 

[mtlobo76]

Local shop will rebuild the transfer case for $2600. Says a new one is $4500. Calling big time BS on that. I have a grease monkey friend who I’m willing to ask to help me do it. Is this a job we can do??

Meaning buy a used one a replace.

 

[oakback]

If it's a hub flange/CV axle, you would be able to see the axle spin. Put a camera or a daring individual in front on the ground while the vehicle is put into park or reverse (with brakes on), and you should be able to see the axle spinning (while making the grinding sound).

 

[camino70]

If it's a hub flange/CV axle, you would be able to see the axle spin. Put a camera or a daring individual in front on the ground while the vehicle is put into park or reverse (with brakes on), and you should be able to see the axle spinning (while making the grinding sound).

Couldn't this also be accomplished by pulling the center cap, grease cap and observe from the side?

 

[oakback]

Couldn't this also be accomplished by pulling the center cap, grease cap and observe from the side?

Absolutely, which is the way I've done it. I was just explaining the least-mechanically-inclined option, just in case.

 

[camino70]

Local shop will rebuild the transfer case for $2600. Says a new one is $4500. Calling big time BS on that. I have a grease monkey friend who I’m willing to ask to help me do it. Is this a job we can do??

I don't think many of us are convinced you don't have a hub flange/ axle issue and not a transfer case issue.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

And if that shop isn't smart enough to chase it to a CV/hub problem and not t-case, reconsider having them do any work. And the reason you're hearing all of this is the number of t-case failures that have been reported here is non-existent. There's been many more hub flange issues. You're talking about a $3k t-case problem vs. worst case a new CV ($500 for OEM) and new flange ($70 OEM). Best case you pop the c-clip back on and see if you need a new thicker one ($20 for a set) and chase why it came off.

Lots of money that could go to other cool mods.