Builds 2001 LC HZJ78 AK -RESTORATION- For Overland

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However, I still feel like my 4x4 lacks power when I engage it and lock the wheels. It just doesn’t seem to have the power I expect, and I’m not sure why. The truck had no wheel lock previously.... Still engage in 4x4 when on the lift but if in a slope it's seem to have no power
I am not sure I understand what you mean here. Are you saying the transfer case is not locking up when you press the button? It works when you have it on the lift, but not when you need it when you are driving? Or do you mean you don't feel like the engine has the power you expect when driving in 4 wheel drive?
 
I am not sure I understand what you mean here. Are you saying the transfer case is not locking up when you press the button? It works when you have it on the lift, but not when you need it when you are driving? Or do you mean you don't feel like the engine has the power you expect when driving in 4 wheel drive?

Transfert Case locks when pressing the button (turns green) with wheel hub lock on the lift 4x4 works however when in a hill and engaging 4x4 it's seem not powerful with the snow on the hill I stay stationary and it should definitely be more capable... Make more sense?
 
Ok, sounds like you are getting everything locked up ok in 4x4.

Keep in mind without diff locks, you are actually only getting 2 wheels with power (one in front and one in back). So it seems to me like you may be losing traction, and spinning your wheels. This happens very easily in wet snow conditions. In drier/colder snow conditions, traction is better, but with diesels, the torque is so high, it is easy to break the tires loose and spin. Ease on the clutch and fuel for gentle starts and this helps considerably.

Personally, I would not try to go anywhere in the backcountry mountain trails in wet snow conditions without chains, even with diff locks because traction is so terrible. If all wheels start to spin, and you are in an off-camber situation, you immediately start sliding to the downhill side (the side that usually ends up down to the bottom of the mountain.) Not fun. Winter exploration and use should include a full set of tire chains in the machine available for use when needed.
 
Ok, sounds like you are getting everything locked up ok in 4x4.

Keep in mind without diff locks, you are actually only getting 2 wheels with power (one in front and one in back). So it seems to me like you may be losing traction, and spinning your wheels. This happens very easily in wet snow conditions. In drier/colder snow conditions, traction is better, but with diesels, the torque is so high, it is easy to break the tires loose and spin. Ease on the clutch and fuel for gentle starts and this helps considerably.

Personally, I would not try to go anywhere in the backcountry mountain trails in wet snow conditions without chains, even with diff locks because traction is so terrible. If all wheels start to spin, and you are in an off-camber situation, you immediately start sliding to the downhill side (the side that usually ends up down to the bottom of the mountain.) Not fun. Winter exploration and use should include a full set of tire chains in the machine available for use when needed.

That could be it...I mean 2 wheels back and front it's not so powerful I guess.. I have nice driveway to climb and believe you have kick it a little to get up but still feel not super convincing... I am planning to do the diff lock swap somewhere in 2025 maybe in the fall... Thank for the input bother!
 
That could be it...I mean 2 wheels back and front it's not so powerful I guess.. I have nice driveway to climb and believe you have kick it a little to get up but still feel not super convincing... I am planning to do the diff lock swap somewhere in 2025 maybe in the fall... Thank for the input bother!
Ok, I could also be completely misunderstanding you as well.

If anything, locking up into 4x4 will take away "power" as you are now powering the front axle and wheel(s). Especially starting out. As you get the RPM's up over 2000 you should feel near normal giddy-up and go. If you do not want to go that fast (driveway) then put it into 4 LO.

Try it out.... experiment, and by all means - HAVE FUN! 😜
 
Ok, I could also be completely misunderstanding you as well.

If anything, locking up into 4x4 will take away "power" as you are now powering the front axle and wheel(s). Especially starting out. As you get the RPM's up over 2000 you should feel near normal giddy-up and go. If you do not want to go that fast (driveway) then put it into 4 LO.

Try it out.... experiment, and by all means - HAVE FUN! 😜

Now that I have a proper clutch engaging I will definitely experiment and ENJOY the turbo too :P
 
Current engine bay set up still need to plum the compressor which I have no instruction. I did the connector yesterday but need to get the right stuff to hook up the air line

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How has that Terrain Tamer radiator been treating you? Searched your awesome thread... Looks like you went from OEM to TT? Note any cooling improvement? Just bought one along with the bigger shroud and fan for my turbo'd/IC 1HZ.
 
How has that Terrain Tamer radiator been treating you? Searched your awesome thread... Looks like you went from OEM to TT? Note any cooling improvement? Just bought one along with the bigger shroud and fan for my turbo'd/IC 1HZ.

The TT Rad as been very efficient and never let me down (only 19000KM) but every time I touch the bottom after a big drive it's cold.... Know that I have install temp gauge Left top on the photo i can monitor so far didn't more then 70C
 
The TT Rad as been very efficient and never let me down (only 19000KM) but every time I touch the bottom after a big drive it's cold.... Know that I have install temp gauge Left top on the photo i can monitor so far didn't more then 70C
Ah. So you ran a temp sender into the TT coolant level port? Love that. I'll do the same. My aftermarket sender is currently in the upper hose and I hate those hose adapters.

Mounted up okay? Realize it's longer so likely need to space my factory bash plate. Also picked up the 1HD lower radiator hose. Any other things to consider?
 
Ah. So you ran a temp sender into the TT coolant level port? Love that. I'll do the same. My aftermarket sender is currently in the upper hose and I hate those hose adapters.

Mounted up okay? Realize it's longer so likely need to space my factory bash plate. Also picked up the 1HD lower radiator hose. Any other things to consider?

It's was a direct bolt on with SAAS sender I got ... same thread. The only down side you need to always have collant toped :)
 
The latest update on my fender bender paint job: the work is still in progress, and the truck is being fully polished again. There were a few details that weren’t quite right, so the guy took it back to fix them properly. Next, we’re planning to sand and pre-install the countertops on the cabinets. After that, we’ll tackle the espar heater, electrical systems...

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Message for my restoration garage

Don't despair, I'm finishing the second side. The Imron is so hard that polishing takes an eternity. You will be very happy with the result, and I will have peace of mind once I’m done."

Took 2 days to polish 2 quarter panels...

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The installation is done! It wasn’t the easiest process because the directional bar had been installed incorrectly. After watching a few videos, I realized that the tab into the pit arm should be inserted from beneath. However, the garage where I did my swap had it from the top, which was likely causing the wobble.


Fortunately, I was able to mount it properly. One adjustment I had to make was inverting the position of the fitting for the damper on top near the pit arm since this was made for RHD . Aside from that, it was a bit tricky because the bolt needed to be fully tapped all the way through, and the supply kit was missing a few items.


Now that everything is in place, I’ll test drive it once the streets are cleaner. The snow is melting, which is great. After that, I’ll head to the garage to see if I can get my truck wrapped in a transparent film to protect the new paint.

Need to continue working on the cabinet countertop to finalize the set up!

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The installation is done! It wasn’t the easiest process because the directional bar had been installed incorrectly. After watching a few videos, I realized that the tab into the pit arm should be inserted from beneath. However, the garage where I did my swap had it from the top, which was likely causing the wobble.


Fortunately, I was able to mount it properly. One adjustment I had to make was inverting the position of the fitting for the damper on top near the pit arm since this was made for RHD . Aside from that, it was a bit tricky because the bolt needed to be fully tapped all the way through, and the supply kit was missing a few items.


Now that everything is in place, I’ll test drive it once the streets are cleaner. The snow is melting, which is great. After that, I’ll head to the garage to see if I can get my truck wrapped in a transparent film to protect the new paint.

Need to continue working on the cabinet countertop to finalize the set up!

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This looks so ****ing massive!!!! Fantastic.
 
Here’s a quick update on the progress:

  • Countertops: I managed to assemble and glue the countertops. Next steps include shaping the bullnose edges and trimming for the sink and induction plate.
  • Electrical Setup:
    • Inverter: Ordered
    • Battery: In hand
    • MPPT Controller: Ready
    • Solar Panels: Still missing, but I’m planning to get a 500W panel (or something in that range).
  • Installation Tasks:
    • Pre-drilled all cabinet holes for securing the countertop.
    • Applied a layer of self-adhesive tape to reduce vibration.
    • Installed sound-deadening material underneath.
  • I’ll wait until the sink and other elements are installed before laying the final sheets.
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