2000 LX470 Brake Actuator / Master Cylinder 4705060041 – stranded in Mexico, looking for any viable path forward

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2000lx470lovehate

Joined
Jan 14, 2026
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Hi everyone, first post here, and I’m really hoping to lean on the community.

I’m at my wits’ end trying to get our 2000 Lexus LX470 back on the road. We’re currently in Mexico and this failure has forced us to change travel plans and rent a car while I try to solve this remotely.

I initially thought I had secured a replacement from Prestige Lexus of Ramsey, but after calling this morning to confirm shipment, they apologized and told me the part is now discontinued. I do have a family member flying down from the U.S. next week who is willing to bring parts, so I have a very small window to make something work.

I’m hoping for guidance on:
  • Any remaining sources for the correct brake actuator / master cylinder
  • Whether there is a viable substitute or partial assembly option (for example just the pump / booster assembly, P/N 47960-60010)
  • Or any realistic rebuild / workaround path that others here have successfully used
I’ve searched extensively on IH8MUD and read through many related threads — apologies if I missed something obvious.

What I’ve already tried:​

  • Contacted Andy Le on eBay — he initially thought he had a unit, but tested it and found it was no good
  • Checked most major U.S. Lexus / Toyota parts dealers
  • Checked Toyota dealerships in La Paz and Cabo San Lucas
  • I do have a capable local mechanic here who can rebuild or fabricate if that’s realistically possible

Vehicle details:​

  • 2000 Lexus LX470
  • VIN: JT6HT00WY0110XXX (happy to share full VIN via PM)
  • Build date: 03/2000
  • Mileage: 261,000 miles

Symptoms:​

  • ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and Parking Brake lights all illuminated
  • Loud warning buzzer
  • Sudden loss of brake pressure
  • I was able to temporarily restore pressure and clear lights by tapping the actuator, but it only lasted a day or two
At this point I’m open to any realistic solution: OEM, used, rebuildable, or hybrid.. just trying to safely get the truck back on the road.

Thank you in advance to anyone willing to weigh in. I truly appreciate the depth of knowledge in this community.
 
A vacuum conversion may be more obtainable. Check for 44610-6A070 on non US spec 100 series LCs.

Here is the post with MC and booster. This is what I have in my US LX470.

hoser

Thread 'Poverty Pack Modifications / Feature Delete Thread'

We never received the "Poverty Pack" 100 in the US. It was usually the cheapest, most basic Land Cruiser and also the most reliable. Reliable because it had just the bare bones.

Well, here's your chance to delete all that unnecessary :poop: lol! All PN's are for 98-02 unless stated otherwise.

Chrome Delete Grill thread (53111-60330)
1620f065-af74-48d9-b621-883fec0f93de-jpeg.1948086



Foglight Delete Covers
52128-60010
52127-60010

Image.tiff


Non-power Antenna (86300-60181)
Antenna switch blank off cover (center console)...
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So your brake booster assembly failed and you've exhausted options to source a new one? Do I understand this correctly? Does that mean that everyone with a hundy is now a sitting duck? In terms of waiting for this brake booster problem to happen to us, and when it does, essentially making it the nail in the coffin for our cars?
 
Have you tried a pump motor replacement? It sounds like if you could get the accumulator to hold pressure for a couple of days a new pump might get you going again.

There is a Chinese knock off in stock on Amazon:

Amazon.com: Flynsu 47960-60010 ABS Brake Booster Pump Motor Replacement for Lexus LX470 Toyota Land Cruiser 4Runner Tacoma Tundra 2.7L/3.4L/4.7L : Automotive

Buy Flynsu 47960-60010 ABS Brake Booster Pump Motor Replacement for Lexus LX470 Toyota Land Cruiser 4Runner Tacoma Tundra 2.7L/3.4L/4.7L: Power Brake Systems - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

I carry this as a spare part on my longer journeys.
 
GremlinMobile said:
So your brake booster assembly failed and you've exhausted options to source a new one? Do I understand this correctly? Does that mean that everyone with a hundy is now a sitting duck? In terms of waiting for this brake booster problem to happen to us, and when it does, essentially making it the nail in the coffin for our cars?
Click to expand...

The brake booster/actuator/accumulator assembly 47050-60041 is discontinued from Toyota. That said, the OP has found a solution.
 
How do you know OP found the solution?

Even if we did - what about the rest of us with 20+ year old boosters???
 
GremlinMobile said:
How do you know OP found the solution?

Even if we did - what about the rest of us with 20+ year old boosters???
Click to expand...
Update for anyone following along:

47050-60041 is officially discontinued, so my plan is to run a 47050-60042 master cylinder and address the oil pressure sensor/connector mismatch. Shout-out to Onur for the idea here. I’ll report back once it’s installed and bled, but this seems like the cleanest path forward. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
 
2000lx470lovehate said:
Update for anyone following along:

47050-60041 is officially discontinued, so my plan is to run a 47050-60042 master cylinder and address the oil pressure sensor/connector mismatch. Shout-out to Onur for the idea here. I’ll report back once it’s installed and bled, but this seems like the cleanest path forward. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
Click to expand...
Please keep us updated - would love to know if this is an option.
 
I've not, do I recall seeing anyone use newer Master with it's B type Pressure sensor. In older 2000 100 series, with "A" type pressure sensor.

So bottom line, unless some has made the switch. We don't know, if it will or will not work.

The day I must install newer Master in a 2000. Here's what I'll try and in this order:
  1. I'd swap out old pressure sensor, using new O-ring ($3). I'd first take very careful measurements. To make sure fitment the same. Paying special attention to depth. The newer PR sensors, also has a washer. Which I'd likely use with older. After connecting everything, I'd connect battery, see what happens. Flush bleed and test.
  2. Or keep new master as is. Replace only the older wire housing block, that's on vehicles wire harness. With the newer with housing 90980-11451. Which may be as simple moving pins over to new wire housing block. As pins, very likely the same. If not, I'd solder in new pig tails. Again; After connecting everything, I'd connect battery, see what happens. Flush bleed and test.

I'll add. If brake fluid in master, well care for. Which sign of, is no staining in reservoir and diagnostic indicate failure on booster side. I'd likely just replace or rebuild booster side for now. Since all booster ASSY are the same. Only issues, is old master may now handle the full pressure new booster side produces. Brakes will work. But, we may get the dying seagull sound with bubble up from of reservoir (seal pressure loss). Booster motor will the, run excessive long duration, which reduce it's life. Other seals, may also fail. But as long as we've fluid and booster motor runs. We have brakes.
 
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I have a fully functional complete brake master pump/booster assembly removed from my 2000. I replaced it as a preventative maintenance as I take the cruiser on long trips. would that work for yours?

Here is my thread of the fix? look for pictures of the old unit especially the pressure switch (oval) and wire connectors in post 2

nissanh

Thread 'LandCruiser 100 Brake Master Cylinder Installation - The Easy Way!'

DEMOSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY: DO AT YOUR OWN RISK: This is a BRAKE item and involves safety. It worked for me does not mean it works for you. If you have not done any Brake repairs, please take it to the dealer/professional shop.

I've been thinking about this replacement for a while (mine had no issues: 30 seconds booster run ime). Saw threads that state it requires tech stream/scan tool etc., After seeing my cousine who fixed his 2001 Montero AISIN brke master cylinder booster pump motor repair and how he got it to work, I wanted to give a try on my LC 100.

Bought a brand new unti. The...
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2001LC said:
I've not, do I recall seeing anyone use newer Master with it's B type Pressure sensor. In older 2000 100 series, with "A" type pressure sensor.

So bottom line, unless some has made the switch. We don't know, if it will or will not work.

The day I must install newer Master in a 2000. Here's what I'll try and in this order:
  1. I'd swap out old pressure sensor, using new O-ring ($3). I'd first take very careful measurements. To make sure fitment the same. Paying special attention to depth. The newer PR sensors, also has a washer. Which I'd likely use with older. After connecting everything, I'd connect battery, see what happens. Flush bleed and test.
  2. Or keep new master as is. Replace only the older wire housing block, that's on vehicles wire harness. With the newer with housing 90980-11451. Which may be as simple moving pins over to new wire housing block. As pins, very likely the same. If not, I'd solder in new pig tails. Again; After connecting everything, I'd connect battery, see what happens. Flush bleed and test.

I'll add. If brake fluid in master, well care for. Which sign of, is no staining in reservoir and diagnostic indicate failure on booster side. I'd likely just replace or rebuild booster side for now. Since all booster ASSY are the same. Only issues, is old master may now handle the full pressure new booster side produces. Brakes will work. But, we may get the dying seagull sound with bubble up from of reservoir (seal pressure loss). Booster motor will the, run excessive long duration, which reduce it's life. Other seals, may also fail. But as long as we've fluid and booster motor runs. We have brakes.
Click to expand...
Im actually surprised no one has attempted this yet.
 
2000lx470lovehate said:
Update for anyone following along:

47050-60041 is officially discontinued, so my plan is to run a 47050-60042 master cylinder and address the oil pressure sensor/connector mismatch. Shout-out to Onur for the idea here. I’ll report back once it’s installed and bled, but this seems like the cleanest path forward. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
Click to expand...
Just to close the loop, I followed @Brandon Ryder 's advice here and asked the mechanic to switch the plug on the wiring harness: Resolved: Bought the wrong master cylinder assembly? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/resolved-bought-the-wrong-master-cylinder-assembly.1353340/

Here is what I bought: Pardon Our Interruption... - https://www.ebay.com/itm/263010443675

Car has been running great with no issues.
 
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