2000 Land Cruiser reman denso alternator install issue

[caronfire123]

2000 Land Cruiser alternator issue:
Just bought a reman Denso from the Toyota dealership and installed over the weekend. When I was taking it out I broke the housing for the plug so the clip has broken off and I pulled on the wires a bit but I didn’t look like I did too much damage. I put everything back together and it turns on everything sounds good and I’m at 14+v I drive it around and it drive really nice. I take it out later that night and notice the lights dimming and flickering but I’m still getting 14v. Next morning I turn it on and check again I’m at 12v. Here’s the question do I need to change the plug or do I have a defective alt? And yes I did clean the plugs out and made sure it was pushed in it’s a really tight fit.

 

[SteveH]

I broke the harness clip trying to get that miserable thing off the OEM alternator, so I know what you're up against.

You might need to do a more methodical baseline of the charging system:

1. Fully charge the battery and test the volts at the battery with the engine off - should see 12.65-ish
2. The start the engine and measure volts at the battery - should see 14.2 or more
3. Then turn on every electrical accessory you can find (fan, headlights, rear defroster, cig lighter) and test the volts - should still see 14+, may want to increase RPM and watch volts.
4. Have someone watch the voltage while you wiggle the wiring harness to the alternator - should see no change in volts measured at battery.

Do this and let us know what you learn. You have to get to the point where you have a repeatable fault before you can declare some particular part or harness to be bad.

 

[caronfire123]

I broke the harness clip trying to get that miserable thing off the OEM alternator, so I know what you're up against.

You might need to do a more methodical baseline of the charging system:

1. Fully charge the battery and test the volts at the battery with the engine off - should see 12.65-ish
2. The start the engine and measure volts at the battery - should see 14.2 or more
3. Then turn on every electrical accessory you can find (fan, headlights, rear defroster, cig lighter) and test the volts - should still see 14+, may want to increase RPM and watch volts.
4. Have someone watch the voltage while you wiggle the wiring harness to the alternator - should see no change in volts measured at battery.

Do this and let us know what you learn. You have to get to the point where you have a repeatable fault before you can declare some particular part or harness to be bad.

I replaced the alternator with another manufactured and that solved the issue the first one was faulty.

 

[2001LC]

Wire housing blocks, have a 5 digit part number (suffix) on them. Add the prefix 90980-*****. If my notes correct 98-02 alternator wire housing block is P/N 90980-11349. But, best that you make sure, to check your wire housing for P/N suffix.

I simple wipe clean wire housing and take pictures. Then check pictures for P/N. Pictures will also be useful, to see each wire position. In most cases, I remove one wire at a time, and place it in new wire housing block.

I find it easiest. To use small curved needle nose pliers. Breakaway small pieces of old wire housing block. Being very carful, to not damage wires locked in terminal, as I breakaway plastic housing from around wire terminal. One can unpin terminals one by one, from wire housing block. But that's a PITA most times. have your new wire housing in hand. Will help, in understand how it's terminals lock in.

Few things I find done wrong or not best practice. A bit too often, when alternator has been replace.

• Busted wire housing block, not replaced.
• We must move wire hanger bracket from old alternator to new. Often times, I'll remove bolt holding bracket on alt, leaving wire hung on it. It can be easier, than releasing wire from bracket.
• The large wire, with single wire connector terminal lug. Has two prongs/keys, protruding from it. We must place these keys, into their key holes. Then place retaining nut on wire stud that retains the wire connect terminal lug. Torque nut to 7ft-lbf.
• Missing cap, from the single large wire terminal & stud. This cap is a safety. In the event of accident or a tool drop. Grounding this terminal. Sparks will fly. Which becomes a fire hazard.

During removal. One nut is often stuck on stud. The whole stud then comes off. We can get a thin (I grind down) open end wrench on stud, to aid in breaking free the stuck nut.

Some remains alt, don't come with pulley. So we must swap pulley over, to the replacement alt. Watch for any pulley damage. If found, replace is best practice.

Single wire connector terminal. One of the two locking key prongs, can be seen here. Nut torque is 7ft-lbf

Best practice, to cap the single hot wire. The old cap's locks, are often brittle and break. Have a new cap on hand is best. But this cap can be replaced, anytime, in situ.

 

[ChroniclerCruiser]

The advice in this thread is welcome, I'm going to be replacing the alternator in my 2000LC soon so this is all wonderful information. @2001LC I was planning on installing the alternator from a Toyota Sequoia (P/N 27060-0F050-84) since I plan on running a fridge, winch and extra accessories down the line; besides the cap for the wire, are there any other parts I should order or have on hand? I'm also doing the "Big Three" electrical upgrade.