200 Series Ti key shell

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Roy Park said:
Just for clarity, is this just a cover for the fob or will we take the innards from our fob and put them into this?
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It is a complete replacement for the OEM shell. You'll take your existing key, circuit board and buttons and transfer them into the YotaMD new shell - leaving behind the OEM Toyota plastic.
 
suprarx7nut said:
Alright here are some early renderings. I'm not happy with either as is so there will be a lot more work ahead, but I'd like to see which direction the crowd here likes more at this point. The function of the two designs is identical. No change in the overall footprint or mechanics of it all.

The Complex render shows some aesthetic details on the face of the remote to break up the outer border of the part.

The Plain render shows the very basic face with no aesthetic changes. All function, very plain.

Anyone have strong feelings one way or another? Both will receive a lot of touch up before going any further, but if the consensus is obviously one over another I'll focus on the popular option.


View attachment 1641927
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I like the simpler render. With a Land Cruiser on the back


Unknown.webp
 
suprarx7nut said:
The OEM fob - at least the one I bought for testing - is sealed with a translucent gasket/cover which covers the entire circuit board, including the LED. The LED hole on the front plastic housing is irrelevant to the watertight-ness of the assembly if the main seal functions as intended. The assembly relies on the translucent gasket, the lip on the back half of the fob which the gasket lays, and finally the front case to provide pressure onto the translucent gasket pressing it to the back half where the actual mating surface is located.

I wouldn't call it waterproof, by any means, but it's a neat design that simplifies the assembly so water resistance is maximized with no traditional "sealing surfaces" like you'd find on a water resistant watch. The injection molded plastic is "good enough".

My design will (or at least is planned to) maintain this feature with or without the LED hole. I'll test it out with some water submersion and water test strips to verify!

The OEM design might also "seal" on the LED feature itself, but on mine the plastic molded surface is pretty rough which makes me think they weren't overly concerned with that sealing. The back half sealing surface, on the other hand, looks really nice and smooth.
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Yep. You are correct, and I was wrong.

The circuit board literally sits on a closed "platform" inside that is sealed with the full, translucent, internal rubber "mask" covering the entire surface. I must have been remembering a different fob with an edge-only gasket.

IMG_4563.webp
 
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Markuson said:
Yep. You are correct, and I was wrong.

The circuit board literally sits on a closed "platform" inside that is sealed with the full, translucent, internal rubber "mask" covering the entire surface. I must have been remembering a different fob with an edge-only gasket.

View attachment 1643510
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This is really helpful for a couple reasons I didn't expect. It's pretty fascinating, actually.

1. Your board is different than mine and they were built 1 month apart. Mine is 10/12, yours is 11/12. Footprint looks identical, but the PCB layout is different.
2. Your buttons are the same shape as my tester, but the locating features are different than mine. This is a pain, but good to know! Hopefully I can make them compatible with my current design.
3. The hole for your LED is there in the molded case, but appears covered by the "skin" of your remote. I wonder how your remote faces were colored.
4. Your case structure is completely different than mine, though the critical features are the same. Yours is missing some casting marks and mold numbers that mine has. That makes me think yours is non-OEM or at least molded from a different supplier.

Do you know the history on that fob? Was it something you purchased or did you inherit it from a PO?

Thanks!
 
suprarx7nut said:
This is really helpful for a couple reasons I didn't expect. It's pretty fascinating, actually.

1. Your board is different than mine and they were built 1 month apart. Mine is 10/12, yours is 11/12. Footprint looks identical, but the PCB layout is different.
2. Your buttons are the same shape as my tester, but the locating features are different than mine. This is a pain, but good to know! Hopefully I can make them compatible with my current design.
3. The hole for your LED is there in the molded case, but appears covered by the "skin" of your remote. I wonder how your remote faces were colored.
4. Your case structure is completely different than mine, though the critical features are the same. Yours is missing some casting marks and mold numbers that mine has. That makes me think yours is non-OEM or at least molded from a different supplier.

Do you know the history on that fob? Was it something you purchased or did you inherit it from a PO?

Thanks!
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I never even noticed the date. If that's really when it was made, then that means this is a replacement FOB by the previous owner...because my LC was built in late 2007 as a 2008 model year.

I'll check my other one, since it may be original & possibly different...!

Looks like folks had better send photos of their internal layout to you...?
 
OK, here's the other one.

2/12

Are you sure that indicates month and year?

Could it be month and day instead...with year noted by some other means?
I would think it odd to lose both FOBS of a 2008 Cruiser in 2012... :)

IMG_4568.webp
 
Markuson said:
OK, here's the other one.

2/12

Are you sure that indicates month and year?

Could it be month and day instead...with year noted by some other means?
I would think it odd to lose both FOBS of a 2008 Cruiser in 2012... :)

View attachment 1644176
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Hmm, that is interesting. Maybe the X/12 number is a revision of some sort. That looks similar to your first, so still different than mine.

I'm good with the board and don't expect those changes to affect anything. I am concerned with the buttons. I don't suppose you can show a picture of the front case/buttons from the inside?

I assume your second case shows the same part number and/or FCCID as the first one you posted?
 
As another data point, I had to buy a brand new fob last fall when one of mine quit working, just popped it open and it says "5/12" on the board. FCC id on the case HYQ14AEM. I can get you close up photos if you want.

And I found just the case from my busted fob, not sure why I tossed the guts. Want it? Happy to donate to the cause.
 
KLF said:
As another data point, I had to buy a brand new fob last fall when one of mine quit working, just popped it open and it says "5/12" on the board. FCC id on the case HYQ14AEM. I can get you close up photos if you want.

And I found just the case from my busted fob, not sure why I tossed the guts. Want it? Happy to donate to the cause.
Click to expand...

That's a generous offer and a part I don't currently have! Can you start with a picture? If it's different than the ones I currently have I'd love to take you up on the offer. If it's the same as what I've got we can save the trouble of shipping anything.

Thanks!
 
I'm still planning some sculpting on the lines to make it a little more organic, but this is more or less the current design shape. Prototype is being printed now and I expect do some initial fitment testing in a week!

March 3 render - no sculpt.webp
 
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