Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Enjoying your build... Yes cute kids for sure... However... "If it still runs" you did correct her I hope :)

Pulling the flywheel and bellhousing on the engine is the way we did it last... Went easy enough IMO
 
Progress: received the engine hooks donated to the cause by LandCrusher909 (thank you! I'll pay them forward). Once I got these, I said "Ok, time to pull the motor." I removed the alternator, the water pump, exhaust and intake, put the hooks on, took the hooks back off, connected the leveler directly to the engine block, and lifted it right out. The Carolina ShopHand 4000 worked great.



image-699702428.webp
Water pump


image-3816324225.webp
Intake


image-1305667262.webp
Exhaust Header




image-2920671521.webp
Showing how I connected the leveler to the block

image-896316724.webp


image-3033625576.webp
Ready to roll away

image-3878495359.webp
Looks like when a kid loses a tooth



image-3305237177.webp
Rolled it into the garage. Need to put it in the ground for safety.

After all that prep, it was easy.
image-699702428.webp
image-3816324225.webp
image-1305667262.webp
image-896316724.webp
image-3033625576.webp
image-3878495359.webp
image-3305237177.webp
image-2920671521.webp
 
Last edited:
Nice set up your moving right along keep up the good work.
 
I have subscribed to this thread. Your project is proceeding nicely. Keep up the great work!!
 
So what do I do with the engine now that it is out? It is very rusty inside. Can I flush it if I hook up the water pump and piping? Have CLR, will travel.

image-3243635785.webp
image-2955591523.webp
Rust

image-1835781632.webp
Exhaust

image-3220224973.webp
Intake

Here's what I think:

- Remove bell housing, flywheel, clutch, RMS
- put engine on engine stand
- Flush engine block, de-rusting it
- Clean outside
- Remove valve cover and inspect valves
- If they look ok, do a valve adjustment
- Do a compression test on cylinders.
- If it doesn't pass, tear it down and start looking for the hard to find cylinder head parts. Rebuild it. Many weeks later, continue below.
- Remove oil pan, clean, paint it.
- Paint outside of block
- Replace valve gasket, other gaskets (header, water pump, oil pan & gasket, etc)
- Reassemble valve cover
- Replace RMS, clutch, flywheel
- Clean paint replace bell housing.
image-4008909510.webp
image-3243635785.webp
image-1835781632.webp
image-3220224973.webp
image-2955591523.webp
 
Last edited:
I would at least reseal the top end: ie, replace the head gasket. I mean if there's good compression and you're not burning oil or coolant this is probably not necessary...BUT "while it's out" it is one less thing to worry about later!
 
If I recall, you did not get a good opportunity to drive and evaluate the engine's condition before removing. Based on what I am seeing combined with your dedication in doing the job once and doing it right, I think you will rethink your initial approach and do a complete overhaul. A good auto machine shop could become your best friend for a while.
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
I would at least reseal the top end: ie, replace the head gasket. I mean if there's good compression and you're not burning oil or coolant this is probably not necessary...BUT "while it's out" it is one less thing to worry about later!
Click to expand...

vtgbeemer said:
If I recall, you did not get a good opportunity to drive and evaluate the engine's condition before removing. Based on what I am seeing combined with your dedication in doing the job once and doing it right, I think you will rethink your initial approach and do a complete overhaul. A good auto machine shop could become your best friend for a while.
Click to expand...

Last person I saw said they'd spent $3500 on the rebuild. Yikes.


If I do that, I'm really in unfamiliar territory. I have a friend who builds racecar engines on contract here in town. I'm going to consult with him as well as this board to see what's involved if I do this.


Makes sense to do it. Won't be slowing me down any - I'll have several things going on in parallel anyway.


Several folks have said - don't do it unless you have to, and I've seen difficulty in finding new pistons if needed. Is this really a smart thing to do?
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
I would at least reseal the top end: ie, replace the head gasket. I mean if there's good compression and you're not burning oil or coolant this is probably not necessary...BUT "while it's out" it is one less thing to worry about later!
Click to expand...

I second this

If it has good compression I wouldnt go tearing into deep ...clean it all up... Headgasket is good to replace and replace all the seals IMO
 
Also... If you got somebody who can talk you thru things and help check to specs the cyl walls and such... You can just give it a good look over
 
I am a firm believer in evaluating what you have and never replacing proven, experienced parts that are still performing well.
I probably should have said a complete inspection instead of overhaul. I keep flashing back to that brief drive you took early on, and that loss of power and squeal. Do you remember if you had oil pressure?
 
vtgbeemer said:
I am a firm believer in evaluating what you have and never replacing proven, experienced parts that are still performing well.
I probably should have said a complete inspection instead of overhaul. I keep flashing back to that brief drive you took early on, and that loss of power and squeal. Do you remember if you had oil pressure?
Click to expand...

No time to check oil pressure. I was concentrating on stopping going down the hill, then getting up the hill. Then putting out the fire LOL.

Sounds like a good, deep evaluation is wise, as noted by each of the commenters here. Kind of a "trust but verify" scenario.

I keep flashing back to the PO saying "It runs great!" Not.
 
JohnnyC said:
Also... If you got somebody who can talk you thru things and help check to specs the cyl walls and such... You can just give it a good look over
Click to expand...

What's the best course of action? Anyone got a good Mud-engine-inspect thread to hold my hand with?
 
Vae Victus said:
What's the best course of action? Anyone got a good Mud-engine-inspect thread to hold my hand with?
Click to expand...

Need to check w/plastigage strips and micrometer ... Best thread is by TMW MrT put it all together in a thread called the engine FSM ... You can have it in hand with paperback or PDF :)

Trollhole has a PDF FSM thread someplace
 
Scott, this time of year I would not be opposed to taking that 40 mile motorcycle ride to put a second set of eyes on your engine components and you do have my cell number.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom