1hdt into 1995 US Landcruiser

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Pistons are all in with the help of a new compression ring.

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Now we have @Delta VS here to check the amount of protrusion and make sure out 3 cut headgasket will clear everything.
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New oil pump and back end to the timing cover.

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This is Dave @Delta VS
admiring his glorious work.
 
Head is dropped off at a diesel head shop in Oakland.
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thanks to Brian and Ofer I have a bell housing now to mate the motor aandh150 to.


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This is ofers rear plate i dont have one yet.
So why not have one made.
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We will see how this goes, this can also mean that maybe adapter plates can be made in the future.. Who knows...



bunch of parts have come in from cruiserparts.net.

Fuel lines, intake manifold are the biggies..
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Head is dropped off at a diesel head shop in Oakland.
View attachment 4055633
thanks to Brian and Ofer I have a bell housing now to mate the motor aandh150 to.


View attachment 4055634

This is ofers rear plate i dont have one yet.
So why not have one made.View attachment 4055635View attachment 4055636

We will see how this goes, this can also mean that maybe adapter plates can be made in the future.. Who knows...



bunch of parts have come in from cruiserparts.net.

Fuel lines, intake manifold are the biggies..
View attachment 4055637
Looking awesome. That's the cleanest cardboard template I've ever seen

FYI that's an auto plate, you can remove the oval cutout for the torque converter bolts if you want. This is what the manual plate looks like:

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@ikarus that one looks pretty damn clean too. Thanks for the auto/manual info.
I think I will leave it so its universal, also fill in the banana cut out. That just let's my cardboard sit flat on the real one. To compare bolt location.
 
I know. They are torque to yield, just like head bolts or rod bolts.
They get stretched every time they are torqued.
FSM says to check bolt thickness. If they have stretched beyond limits, the thread will be thinner on the base of the threaded part of the bolt. Near the straight shank.
FSM also says if bolts yield before reaching torque, and/or retightening the extra 90⁰, replace the bolt. They anticipate some will yield.

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Ok pulled all the main bolts

They are all between 11.82mm and 11.74mm

I swapped in all of the thickest ones from the set I have. Since I have an extra 4 from the mishap.
 
did I miss what the reason was for making your own plate vs buying a new OE? Looks nice
 
did I miss what the reason was for making your own plate vs buying a new OE? Looks nice
Cause I dont have the extra funds.

Also if I have the bolt layout for a h series motor and transmission, maybe I can make something interesting.
 
Clutch fork came in
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Also fan clutch i wasn't sure how nessary this was over a stock part and they are pretty expensive new. This is a used ebay one, still feels pretty stiff. I wanted to compare dimensions.
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The cleaner one is the newer one dirty is one from a 1fzfe.
Fan mount and 4 bolt holes are the same. The hole for the center stud on the water pump is smaller on the 1hdt. Also the fan is about 5mm closer to the rad on the 1hdt.

So in a pinch you can use a fan clutch from 1fzfe on a 1hdt but not the other way as safely.

Anyone know if the fan itself is any different?

Also the shroud look to be swapable, any one know?

Also not sure if the motor ends up farther forward or back.
 
Did the cad to make a power steering reservoir mount. Two things will be accomplished with this.
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I can move the reservoir out of the way of future inter cooler piping .

Two I run hydro assist on my rig so I need the larger reservoir to hold more fluid as the level is more dynamic.

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The cad was sent off to be made in metal.
 
Clutch fork came in
View attachment 4065774


Also fan clutch i wasn't sure how nessary this was over a stock part and they are pretty expensive new. This is a used ebay one, still feels pretty stiff. I wanted to compare dimensions.View attachment 4065775View attachment 4065776View attachment 4065777


The cleaner one is the newer one dirty is one from a 1fzfe.
Fan mount and 4 bolt holes are the same. The hole for the center stud on the water pump is smaller on the 1hdt. Also the fan is about 5mm closer to the rad on the 1hdt.

So in a pinch you can use a fan clutch from 1fzfe on a 1hdt but not the other way as safely.

Anyone know if the fan itself is any different?

Also the shroud look to be swapable, any one know?

Also not sure if the motor ends up farther forward or back.

Just posted this in another thread yesterday -

My '97 HDJ81 (1HD-FT) came with what I'm pretty sure is a 1FZ shroud. The left upper mount lined up but the right upper mount didn't. The shop that worked on it before I bought it just added a small bracket to the shroud. The lower mounts lined up fine. Here it is installed with a manual transmission 1HD/HZ radiator from Cruiser Outfitters.

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Just posted this in another thread yesterday -

My '97 HDJ81 (1HD-FT) came with what I'm pretty sure is a 1FZ shroud. The left upper mount lined up but the right upper mount didn't. The shop that worked on it before I bought it just added a small bracket to the shroud. The lower mounts lined up fine. Here it is installed with a manual transmission 1HD/HZ radiator from Cruiser Outfitters.

View attachment 4065873

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Awesome, so if i keep a 1fz shroud with 1fz radiator ill be good.

Thanks
 
During long periods of full load (climbing mountain passes on the highway), coolant temps would slowly creep up, forcing me to down shift and slow down. Now that the AC is working, I was worried this would only get worse. It was time to swap out the all metal CSF radiator for something with higher heat rejection.

The 3FE, 1HZ, 1HDT 80 series radiators are the same. The differences of the 3FE and 1FZ radiator:
-3FE outlet is 1.5” diameter, 1FZ outlet is 1 5/8” diameter
-The inlet and out are in slightly different location horizontally however, it’s less than 1/2” difference
-The two bosses the fan shroud bolts to on the upper tank and the two tabs the fan shroud sits on are all in different locations horizontally
-3FE radiator doesn’t have the 5/16” nipple on the top tank that the 1FZ radiator has
-3FE radiator cap is on the left side, 1FZ is on the right side
-I can’t comment on the transmission cooler line differences since I have a manual transmission and they weren’t on my radar

A 1FZ radiator with the different fan shroud mounts could be used in my application. The coolant inlet to the 1HZ is 1 5/8”. Wizzard cooling charged me $774 + $46 shipping for their 1FZ radiator, 1993-1997 TOYOTA Landcruiser Aluminum Radiator, with the trans cooler removed and the upper and lower fan shroud mounts moved to my specs. Ron Davis quoted me ~$1200+shipping for a FJ80(3FE) radiator. Wizzard cooling was easy to work with any they had a fast turnaround time. The radiator was at my door within a week of me giving them the thumbs up to make it.

What it looked like out of the box.




I sanded these rough edges smooth around the mounts.


The fitment was poor.


This picture was taken with all the mounting bolts installed but not fully torqued. After fully torquing the mounting bolts, it sits slightly straighter.


At the end of the day, the Wizard Cooling radiator cools way better than the brass CSF radiator it replaced. If it proves to be durable and continues to do its job, I’m happy with it.
Heads up the diesel radiator outlet is slightly smaller than the 1FZ radiator. Its possible to get the diesel hose on the 1FZ rad but takes some finagling. Details in the post quoted above.
 
Did the cad to make a power steering reservoir mount. Two things will be accomplished with this. View attachment 4065782

I can move the reservoir out of the way of future inter cooler piping .

Two I run hydro assist on my rig so I need the larger reservoir to hold more fluid as the level is more dynamic.

View attachment 4065781

The cad was sent off to be made in metal.
I need this!
 
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