LX450 1HZ Turbo Diesel & 5speed swap

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hi,I did same swap minus the turbo and transmission is h150,question
1-what do you mean "need 12 v on D for cruise control to work"
where exactly you give 12 v,I did whole my installation and remove the cruise do the fact could not make at work.
2- did you make tach to work if yes how?
tnx
 
I'm not sure how MTN did it, but I accessed D through the ecu harness behind the glovebox. I grabbed the 12v (switched) from there too.

Hey MTN, were you able to hook up both D and R, or do you switch on D just for cruise? ( I have the R light rigged to the shifter as well.)
 

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mtntoys said:


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I ran the reverse switch off the transmission to the same pin as the original auto trans reverse switch on the IL1 connector behind the glove box. I also ran switched 12V from my aux battery to that pin so the reverse lights can be manually switched on. Its nice for camping. "R" is lit on the dash when the reverse lights are on.

For cruise, the D light circuit needs powered. I ran switch 12V from the IL1 to the IL2 connector for that. Whenever the key is turned on, "D" is lit up on the dash.
 
isar said:
2- did you make tach to work if yes how?
tnx
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The tach is the only gauge that's not working. Please let me know if you find a way to make the factory 1FZ tach work with the diesel sender. I can't bring myself to pay $300 for a used diesel tach.

I removed all the factory springs on the clutch pedal assembly. The clutch is smooth with a great feel now. It's not stiff.
 
Picked up a factory diesel tach (PN 83242-6A280) from a mud member. It bolted right into the cluster and worked great with the sensor wired directly to the tach.

With the cruiser unloaded exploring around my house, it's consistently getting 21mpg. The mileage really shines off the pavement. In a weekend of camping/wheeling my friends 1fz used 3/4 of a tank and the 1hz used a ¼ tank.
 
Some in use pictures
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I am trying to understand your notes for the electrical. I found EA4 oil pressure / E7D ecu / but cannot find IL1 in my ewd. I believe it is IH1 in my EWD no?

So do I understand correct that you have the engine ecu and shift lock ecu removed. Does this mean that the only CEL light possible is from your water in fuel sensor? Or is there other systems that can trigger CEL without the ecu? ABS should remain completely intact with no lights?

Not sure i understand what you are using for the fuel cutoff? It is cross out in your notes.

Thanks so much for your help!!
 
My IL1 and IL2 connectors look to be in the same spot as your IH1 and IH2 connectors. After the engine bay harness passes through the fire wall they were the first two connectors.

Transmission and engine ECUs are removed. The CEL is grounded through the water in fuel sensor so it will only light up if there’s water in the fuel filter. I didn’t touch the ABS and it works great.

Ignore the X over the fuel cut notes…I crossed it out when I went to wire in the fuel heater to the EFI relay. I decided not to use the fuel heater so the fuel cut is wired how I originally had it.
 
mtntoys said:
My IL1 and IL2 connectors look to be in the same spot as your IH1 and IH2 connectors. After the engine bay harness passes through the fire wall they were the first two connectors.

Transmission and engine ECUs are removed. The CEL is grounded through the water in fuel sensor so it will only light up if there’s water in the fuel filter. I didn’t touch the ABS and it works great.

Ignore the X over the fuel cut notes…I crossed it out when I went to wire in the fuel heater to the EFI relay. I decided not to use the fuel heater so the fuel cut is wired how I originally had it.
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Awesome! THANKS!
 
Time for a long overdue update. I rebuilt both axles. The front is now rocking RCV 30 spline shafts, cromo locking hub gears and ARP studs. I used Marks Off Road ABS relocation kit to retain ABS when the hubs are unlocked. The ABS sensor bracket and the kuckle both had to be ground down to fit. Easy enough to do, but I don't see why they didn't design the bracket to fit without grinding.
The ABS sensor bracket as received from Marks is on the right.




Both spindles were trashed so I replaced them with the new roller bearing style. I'd rather have a bushings since it's part time, but I couldn't find any new spindles with bushings.
 
With a 16 month old son and a baby girl on the way it was time to rethink the interior sleeping setup. The 80 is now sporting a prinsui rack with a CVT Mt. Denali tent. We’ve only used it two weekends so far, but we’re pretty happy with it.
 
Next on the list was cold AC. The AC compressor is from a HZJ76. The mounts for the lines are oriented a little different than a HZJ80 compressor. The original FZJ80 low pressure line worked after modifying the mounting on the compressor end of the line. For the high pressure line I had to weld pieces of the FZJ80 and HZJ76 line together. It has been working great for 6 months so far and hasn’t leaked.



 
During long periods of full load (climbing mountain passes on the highway), coolant temps would slowly creep up, forcing me to down shift and slow down. Now that the AC is working, I was worried this would only get worse. It was time to swap out the all metal CSF radiator for something with higher heat rejection.

The 3FE, 1HZ, 1HDT 80 series radiators are the same. The differences of the 3FE and 1FZ radiator:
-3FE outlet is 1.5” diameter, 1FZ outlet is 1 5/8” diameter
-The inlet and out are in slightly different location horizontally however, it’s less than 1/2” difference
-The two bosses the fan shroud bolts to on the upper tank and the two tabs the fan shroud sits on are all in different locations horizontally
-3FE radiator doesn’t have the 5/16” nipple on the top tank that the 1FZ radiator has
-3FE radiator cap is on the left side, 1FZ is on the right side
-I can’t comment on the transmission cooler line differences since I have a manual transmission and they weren’t on my radar

A 1FZ radiator with the different fan shroud mounts could be used in my application. The coolant inlet to the 1HZ is 1 5/8”. Wizzard cooling charged me $774 + $46 shipping for their 1FZ radiator, 1993-1997 TOYOTA Landcruiser Aluminum Radiator, with the trans cooler removed and the upper and lower fan shroud mounts moved to my specs. Ron Davis quoted me ~$1200+shipping for a FJ80(3FE) radiator. Wizzard cooling was easy to work with any they had a fast turnaround time. The radiator was at my door within a week of me giving them the thumbs up to make it.

What it looked like out of the box.




I sanded these rough edges smooth around the mounts.


The fitment was poor.


This picture was taken with all the mounting bolts installed but not fully torqued. After fully torquing the mounting bolts, it sits slightly straighter.


At the end of the day, the Wizard Cooling radiator cools way better than the brass CSF radiator it replaced. If it proves to be durable and continues to do its job, I’m happy with it.
 
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