Builds 1HDT H55 INTO A FJ40--Some questions/Some answers (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 9, 2007
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Location
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Crushers 1hz install helped a lot and have had a lot of questions answered here so hope this will help others



apologies to the OPs on the pasted info--I meant to just save it for the install but some of this is good info to put in one place here in the diesel section

What I have 1HDT mechanical from a 98 80 series
h55 and case from a 88 HJ60
also have the axles and driveshafts from the 60
71 FJ40 begging for a TD:bounce::bounce2:

got a lot of help here in the Diesel Section and here is some of the info I have

Some parts that might be helpful
1HD-T 300mm Pressure plate #31210-60121
1HZ 275mm Pressure plate #31210- 36161
1HZ release cylinder #31470-60161
1HZ-7* bellhousing from a 7* series with a 1hz and h55 OEM PN 31111-60230
hj57 motor mounts (rubber)
hj47 crossmember
1hz to h55 input shaft 33311-60170

checked with roodogs and G&S for the bellhousing along with halls 4x4 in Aus but in the end Toyhatsu Aus came up with the goods
Toyhatsu was suggested in another post so I appreciate that info!

also helpful was
(Onur Azeri
Parts Department
American Toyota
505.998.0264 [direct line]
oazeri@americantoyota.com

for these parts used I'd estimate around 1300-1400

next comes the clutch issue
a 275 MM flywheel mated to a 1hz clutch, PP, and flywheel will work but some say not strong enough for a turbo

or a 1hdt flywheel 300 mm and pp mated to a isuzu clutch

here is a good post on that
Regarding mating a 1HDT to an H55f:

My cruiser underwent such a swap last year. Icky (Jeff B.) and I collaborated on the mating issues
and G&S were the beneficiaries of the knowledge we gained. The bellhousing and H55f needed are from a
1HZ powered 70 series (70/73/75 etc.) Since the block casting is the same between the 1HZ and the 1HDT,
the bellhousing bolts up. This is not the case with a 1FZFE unfortunately, no H55f was installed at the
factory behind a 1FZF/1FZFE.

The HZJ7x transmission unfortunately has a 21 spline input shaft, where as a 1HDT normally takes a 300 mm
(exc. Western Europe) clutch disc with 14 splines. Toyota makes no 300 mm clutch disc with 21 splines.
Serendipitously, Isuzu makes such a clutch disc that mates with the 1HZ version of H55f perfectly.
Note that the 3F/2H/3B versions of H55f do not have the same input dimensions and cannot be used for
such a conversion unless the input is replaced. The clutch pressure plate itself is a 1HDT part.

Another option to use 100% Toyota parts is to use a 1HZ flywheel and clutch disc and pp, but these only measure 275 mm.
Western Europeans for some reason also get the smaller clutch size, but they seem to do fine with it.


More ON CLUTCH


the connection to a cast iron H55 transmission is made with a HZ input (can go in any october 1985 or later H55),
either the 275 HZ flywheel or better the 300mm HDT flywheel, for disks =
275 use std toyota HZ for 300mm use an Isuzu NPR clutch disk, then correct pressure plate.



GOOD ADVICE ON USING A 60 CROSSMEMBER


I have seen a few installs where they have used a 60 series cross member under the gearbox and it can snow ball on and give you angle troubles.

The cross member under the gearbox in the 45 & 47 is nearly the same as in a 60 series except for one thing, the side brackets on the cross member are deeper because the chassis on a 60 series is deeper.
So when you use the 60 series brackets you actually drop the gearbox down closer to the ground by a good inch or more.

So you end up with alot of different angles on your motor/gearbox to your front & rear drive shafts. Also the clutch
fan is not level (vertically) up against the radiaitor so you end up having to push the top of the radiator towards
the motor so the fan will actually do what it was designed for.

What I am saying is because of that 60 series cross member all the alignments are wrong. If you have to use the 60
series cross member lift it up 1 1/2 inches above the chassis and cut the top of the brackets off level with the
chassis if you don't like the look of then sticking up above the chassis. Or if you can get the cross member
from a late model FJ use that instead.

From the firewall forward the HJ45/HJ47 are the same as a FJ, but as you go back along the chassis thats where
things start to change.

Also check your gearbox bracket when it comes to mounting it on the chassis, if you need to use spacing blocks
because the cross member is not wide enough, use the spacing block mainly on the RHS otherwise the motor will
be sitting on an angle in between the chassis rails (front of motor points to the LHS and the back of gearbox
pointing to the RHS) and in turn gives you another angle to contend with in your drive shafts.
 
questions

questions i still need to look up

If I use the 1hz bell housing will I need a 1hz or 1hdt fork clutch?
pns for throwout bearing and pilot

what throttle linkage should I use to actuate the throttle for my fj40/1hdt combo

wiring so far looks a doddle, any snafus to watch for?

starter
alt
fuel cutoff
glow plugs *what voltage are mine from UK 80?)
gauges water temp and EGT and tach
direct reading oil pressure gage

Radiator mods?
 
pics!

new 1hz shaft with fine spline vs coarse spline for the 2h etc
and pn for new h55/transfer by MAF from posers faq install
attachment_014.jpg
rainforrest451-1.jpg
 
1. 275mm clutch will hold pretty well in behind your 1HD-T

2. good 4 rows 40 rad will work cool if you match the diesel accordingly ( pyro gauge with you )

3. keep the 1HD-T throtle cable
 
Great information. Can't wait to see more of it. Thanks for posting up the part numbers.
 
This setup in a 60 series was the fastest diesel cruiser I have ever driven.

I think it may even be quicker than the 1hz-t in a FJ45 that was done a couple years back....... and that was one light truck.
 
I reused the original 40 trottle cable and mounted a FJ 40 radiator instead of my BJ rad.No cooling problems anymore like i used to have with my 3B Turbo Intercooler with the diesel radiator.

BJmetnieuwemotor023-800.jpg


BJmetnieuwemotor021-800.jpg


BJmetnieuwemotor020-800.jpg
 
I reused the original 40 trottle cable and mounted a FJ 40 radiator instead of my BJ rad.No cooling problems anymore like i used to have with my 3B Turbo Intercooler with the diesel radiator.

Whoah. More pictures required.

Any pictures of the motor mounts? Is there an H55f behind that? You don't have axle wrap problems do you, or did you add a ladder bar? The engine looks "low" in the truck to me, how much room does it have from the axle (and are you still SUA?) What's up with the PS reservoir on the firewall--why was it moved from the stock location on the 1HD-T?

So many questions that will be applicable to my 1HZ/Turbo swap in the 45....

That looks fantastic!

Dan
 
1hdt

JOEKATANA

Thanks for the pics, nice to see one done already

Next step is awaiting the parts from oz land!
 
parts sources

So far

Profitts Cruisers
Roodogs
and Toyhatsu
American Toyota (Beno)

Have been able to come up with most of the needed parts like the shaft and bell housing

shipping from OZ is big bucks, however may work out cheaper since getting some second hand parts like the bell housing
In the states it might be cheaper to go with Toyota or Proffitts
 
Whoah. More pictures required.

Any pictures of the motor mounts? Is there an H55f behind that? You don't have axle wrap problems do you, or did you add a ladder bar? The engine looks "low" in the truck to me, how much room does it have from the axle (and are you still SUA?) What's up with the PS reservoir on the firewall--why was it moved from the stock location on the 1HD-T?

So many questions that will be applicable to my 1HZ/Turbo swap in the 45....

That looks fantastic!

Dan

Woww way to many questions at once;)

The engine is indeed sitting kindy low because the transmission is way longer and I had to get that under the bodyand the transfercase under the floorpan.I used the 1HDT out of an 80 and the transmission and transfercase are from the same car.The engine mounts I cut out of the BJ's chassis and bolted them on the engine.Then I lined everything up took the measurements and welded them back on the frame with minor reinforcements,the crossmember for the transmission is homemade because it moved about a feet back.I changed the suspension a while ago to coil springs,again I used an 80 series as a donor and a good welder:p
The power steering reservoir is moved because I also use Hydroboost brakes and the booster is mounted high,I mounted the reservoir as high as possible to avoid problems with overflowing or air in the system.

Here are some more pics,if you have any more questions please shoot them although I am more a build to go instead off build to show guy:hmm:
Tomorow I will go trailriding with Tapage:cheers:

BJReto2010.jpg


BJmetnieuwemotor029-800.jpg


BJmetnieuwemotor001-800.jpg


BJnu017-800.jpg


TripSantaFetoLaYeguada128-800.jpg


TripSantaFetoLaYeguada086-800.jpg


TripSantaFetoLaYeguada098-800.jpg


Lesson DO NOT LET YOUR FRIENDS DRIVE YOUR BJ:doh:
TripSantaFetoLaYeguada057-800.jpg


TripSantaFetoLaYeguada011-800.jpg
 
wheelin

Looks like you guys put em to work! So far I have just built and put money in---but soon soon!

I see you kept the whole 80 series drive train but I am gonna do the h55 so I can avoid the length prob and keep the shifter forward more but still it does work eh?


Whats your impression of the 1HD-T in the 40 vs driving one with a 2F or V-8?, is the power good?
 
Very, very cool (that M37 in the background is wicked cool too).

Do you now have a shroud on the radiator, or no? Any overheating issues without one?

How is the heat under the hood? Is the turbo far enough forward and down low that the heat on the firewall is manageable--or is that the reason for the heat shield I see there?

Dan
 
heat

the turbo on the 1hdt sits about midway on the engine and quite low
see the pipe going across the top of the motor? that goes to the turbo
heat shouldnt be a prob but a heat shields not a bad idea anyway and maybe some noise insulation too although the 1h is pretty quiet for a diesel
 
parts

Pulled the trigger on the misc parts tonight to mate the h55 with the 1HDT---shaft bell housing flywheel motor mounts clutch

ouch! But happy to be underway with it

Decided on the the safari hd clutch so it is the 1HZ set up but stronger


not sure if the clutch fork will work from the 60 ---will have to see on that

Question time----Since I have to install the 1hz input shaft is that enough of a teardown to warrant a rebuild?

Hopefully get some pics done for this thread when I get the new parts and I will run them by the shop and put them with the motor

My 40 should be painted by XMAS!
 
Looks like you guys put em to work! So far I have just built and put money in---but soon soon!

I see you kept the whole 80 series drive train but I am gonna do the h55 so I can avoid the length prob and keep the shifter forward more but still it does work eh?


Whats your impression of the 1HD-T in the 40 vs driving one with a 2F or V-8?, is the power good?

Nope the axles are from a HJ61 I bought a few years ago.

I never had a V8 cruiser but I do enter competitions and race them.Guess who is the overall winner:steer::clap:

The fastest BJ i ever had used a 12HT engine this gives you a more brutal trottle respons.The 1HDT is by far faster then 2F or 3F engines,then again my 3B turbo intercooler was way faster than those.
 
Very, very cool (that M37 in the background is wicked cool too).

Do you now have a shroud on the radiator, or no? Any overheating issues without one?

How is the heat under the hood? Is the turbo far enough forward and down low that the heat on the firewall is manageable--or is that the reason for the heat shield I see there?

Dan

Nope no shroud cover and no overheating probs,the heat shield was installed for the 3B combo this engine overheated easily(boosting 18PSI:whoops:)when I pushed it for a long period.

Today we where up in the mountains and pushing it the temperature didn't pass 180,the hoodscoop does cool it down a lot

And recently my BJ received a brand new A/C to keep the cab cool:beer:
 
Nope no shroud cover and no overheating probs,the heat shield was installed for the 3B combo this engine overheated easily(boosting 18PSI:whoops:)when I pushed it for a long period.

Today we where up in the mountains and pushing it the temperature didn't pass 180,the hoodscoop does cool it down a lot

And recently my BJ received a brand new A/C to keep the cab cool:beer:

So.... does that mean that you think the 1HD-T runs cooler than the 3B/turbo combo did?

I live up a few hills that have the potential to cook my 2LT-E, or a 3B/turbo if you don't watch them, so I'm definitely hoping to make the 1HZ/turbo combo run as cool as humanly possible. It would make me feel a lot better if the :princess: can drive it without having to worry about cooking the motor and thus angering me. (just kidding, I won't be angry, the 2LT-E will crack someday anyway...).

Very good to know that you haven't felt the need for a shroud. That gives me hope that the 1HZ/1HD-T might indeed run as cool as I have heard/read.

Dan
 

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