1HD-T - Possible air leak from fuel primer ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter faded gxl
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Finally figured my problem out. It was the clear hosing I was using to see if there / where the air in the line would be coming from. It was slightly too big and the c-clamps were letting air in. Only problem is, I can't tell if switching to OEM fuel lines fixed the problem or not since I can't see inside it. hah.
Magic Spool Bus
SILVER Star
For me it was rather obvious it fixed mine. I would get air overnight and it wouldn’t start. I would imagine if you don’t have starting issues, rough idle, loss of power... it should be solved. Given you don’t see any leaks.
yeah, I replaced the primer, the water sensor, it's got a new sender screen, new long range tank, and all the fuel lines. I've never had starting issues related to fuel. knock on wood!
If anyone is looking for 'true' 12mm fuel line, I purchased some of this: RHM12BRAID - Flennor Multi-Fuel Hose 12mm Braided [RHM12BRAID] - $8.73 : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair
Waiting to try it out on the rebuilt engine. The clear line was not creating a great seal, and whatever imperial stuff Im using now is so tight it needs to be greased on and cut off.
Waiting to try it out on the rebuilt engine. The clear line was not creating a great seal, and whatever imperial stuff Im using now is so tight it needs to be greased on and cut off.
Well that sounds like it could just be the filter or primer assembly
If thats the last thing you touched allowing air into the system, thatys got to be it.
If the engine was running before you replace the primer, then just use the primer pump to prune the lines and you should be all good. It might cough and splutter a bit until any air is out of the system, but not for long.
Ive always done what MG suggested as well as pump the primer at the same time. Takes a few minutes.
I realize this thread is nearly a year since the last posting. Those of you who ordered new parts, might you be able to share part numbers? I'm getting air in my fuel as well, and would like to replace the primer, and the water sensor. And, have found mixed answers as to which filter/water separator I should be using on my 1HDT engine. Thanks for the help.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM filter head and primer. And there is nothing wrong with quality aftermarket gear. You can easily google the part numbers.
Do you have the fuel primer/filter assembly with the fuel heater or without? You can use your frame number to look up and purchase parts here: PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World - https://partsouq.com and here: MegaZip - Genuine OEM Parts From Japan, USA, UAE | Online Store - https://www.megazip.net
Also, you can cross reference part numbers to different models here: ToyoDIY.com - https://www.toyodiy.com
23301-17040 is the primer w/ fuel heater
23301-17030 is the primer w/o fuel heater
84461-60040 is the water sensor
Hope this helps!
Thank you! That's some good info. I'm not sure if it has the heater or not. I'll have to look it up tonight. Thank you for part numbers.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The heater has cables going into the top of the primer, that will be the indicator you need, having said that the heater has little use in all but the coldest climates, so a cheaper alternative is the simple filter head.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
Okay, so my problems have gotten worse. Last week, while driving home the truck started dieing at stoplights. I had to shift into neutral and rev the engine up to keep it running. Made for a rather frustrating drive home. I replaced the fuel filter yesterday, and now it is worse. It won't stay running at all unless I rev it up past 12-1300. And it feels a little sluggish when I step on the pedal. I have pumped the primer a bunch, until it gets firm. But no help. Is it possible I got air stuck in the IP? Should I crack the injector lines and bleed them? I ordered a new primer pump, should be here in a week or so. But now it's not really feasible to even drive the truck. Help!!
So, I just messed around with the truck a little more. I used the throttle lock to lock the rpms at 1000, and then it would hunt up and down about 250 rpms. And sometimes it would dip down Bellow 1000rpms, and then die. It just doesn't want to idle. When I had it idling high, I cracked the injector lines one at a time, and bled air out. But no change. I'm gonna put some clear hose in between the filter housing and the IP to see how much air is getting in. But I'm starting to wonder if something else is happening. I've read about the governor spring, but I'm not sure where this is. And, I haven't been able to find a part number. Anyyhing else y'all think I should check or adjust?
Another update. Just bought some clear hose and installed it between the filter housing and the IP. There is a bit of air in the line, but it doesn't look like any air is making it to the pump. I loose Ed the lock but and adjusted the set screw on top of the IP in many different positions, with basically no change. I'm guessing governor spring at this point, but not sure how to diagnose for that. And, I don't know where that spring lives. Any help would be amazing.
No, I haven't. How is it accessed?
