1HD-T - Possible air leak from fuel primer ? (1 Viewer)

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The cruiser hasn't been starting up as quick as she used to, being a Di she used to fire as soon as i flicked the key, now it cranks for a couple seconds. I don't know whether it is an air leak or a dying starter, batteries are only a few months old and it had a rebuild 10k/km's ago, drives mint and uses bugger all oil.

I had a quick look around the fuel system today and noticed a bit of diesel under the fuel filter, I had a leak from the water sensor were the wires come out a few years ago that caused similar problems but alot worse, it was underpowered and idled low then, I ordered in a new one but araldited the old one up which done the trick.

The sensor was definitely weeping again but not as bad so I replaced that with a genuine one today along with the filter hoping it would rectify my starting issue, I also purchased a metre of clear hose. Fired it up and it was the same, but there definitely appears to be a fuel delivery problem.

Before the video I did it with the injectors cracked, definitely got a lot more air out but there was always a small bubble right at the top of the hose at the primer outlet after running it for 1min or so it was back to where it was where the video starts. I have clear hose on the other side of the filter and other than a couple of minuscule bubbles there appears to be no drama's with fuel delivery on that side. There was a minor leak out of the clamp on the pump in thee vid that was sorted and made no difference either.



Regardless of whether it fixes my starting issue or not I guess I just want confirmation that the amount of air in the line isn't normal, and the best way to go will be to replace the primer housing ?

Also any other suggestions for possible causes for both the air in the line and the starting issue more than welcome ?
 
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"this video is private "

Makes it a little hard to watch the video ;)

Have you tried bypassing the filter completely with clear hose? Just go clear hose from the fuel line at the back of the engine bay, directly to the injection pump
Try and fill the hose with fuel before connecting to the fuel line, as you won't be able to prime the clear hose with the hand primer/fuel filter out of the system. Once you get the clear hose primed, you'll soon see if the air bubble and starting is the same.
 
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Changed the privacy settings now, no I didn't try it with the fuel filter bypassed and I feel like a bit of a dick for not thinking of it myself, will do it first thing in the morning and post up the results.

Cheers mate,

Dan
 
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Looks like air to me. When you revved it up , the air almost reached the injection pump. Ive seen quite few diesels get air in them without any obvious leakage of fuel , but when there is fuel leakage ,the air is much worse.
My 1HZ had the same symptoms as your with the cranking time getting longer and longer , but the leak was where the hose joins the pump.
Have you tried removing the filter checker the rubber seal and refitting it. These kind of filter units are known to leak around the fliter seal.

That's weird looking diesel. Ours is kind of brown /yellow with blueish tinge at different angles.
 
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If your still suspecting air. The metal hoses on the primer are just press fitted and there is a Oring in there you can change.
 
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Definitely not normal
Yeah didn't think so, cheers for the confirmation mate. Cracked the s***s yesterday after looking for a stubby screwdriver for 20mins and ended up having a shed/storage drawers cleanup day instead of Cruiser maintenance day, will get back into it after work this week though.

Looks like air to me. When you revved it up , the air almost reached the injection pump. Ive seen quite few diesels get air in them without any obvious leakage of fuel , but when there is fuel leakage ,the air is much worse.
My 1HZ had the same symptoms as your with the cranking time getting longer and longer , but the leak was wear the hose joins the pump.
Have you tried removing the filter checker the rubber seal and refitting it. These kind of filter units are known to leak around the fliter seal.

That's weird looking diesel. Ours is kind of brown /yellow with blueish tinge at different angles.
Yeah it does get bloody close to the pump, and that is just free revving in neutral... Quite concerning really. Had a good look at the filter yesterday and it appears to be sealing. I'm putting my money on the primer as the culprit for the air in the system at this stage.

I'm in Perth too mate and the diesel is BP ultimate, appears yellowy when poured into a jar, I think the pvc hose is playing tricks on the colours.


the starter sounds slow to turn. i would check batteries and ground.
x 2 on the grounds. I put extra grounds via the side terminals on my batteries. Remove all your grounds and clean them up.
If your still suspecting air. The metal hoses on the primer are just press fitted and there is a Oring in there you can change.

There is definitely air getting in the line but I think the starting issue is battery related too, the earths definitely need a good clean no doubt about it, for a while now I have suspected something is draining my batteries, haven't had a chance to have a good look yet but I did notice they were low yesterday hard to say though as I had the tailgate open for near on 10hrs and the interior lights were on the whole time but i flicked the battery monitors on at the end of the day and the cranking battery was only reading 12.5 volts, aux was at 12.68.

They are known to let in air and stop priming.
Is that in reference to veiloctane's post above about the metal hose o-rings ?




There is no air on the other side of the filter/primer housing so IMO it has to be coming from there so I'm gonna throw a clear hose on my old mans 1hz and make sure he isn't having the same drama's then swap his over to mine and see what happens. Only got approx 1hr of sunlight after work atm so this one might stretch out over the week, hoping to have it sorted by the weekend so I can head out bush.


Thanks for the responses guys, some good food for thought!
 
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Did you find that bloody screwdriver yet? :hillbilly:

Primers are known to leak. Mine failed, and caused havoc to the way the car ran due to air being sucked in.

Check battery voltage while you crank it. It's possible to read 12v with no load and a lot less under load if you have one or more weak cells
 
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just some food for thought. I had some starting issues too.

I thought I would note I had upgraded my ground and power cable from the battery to the starter as the copper was green and corroded. its worth it to do a voltage drop test to find out where your electrical system has poor contacts. while I was in there I also checked my other ground points and upgraded the rest of the wire 1/0 AWG.

First I would pull the battery and have them tested. and if they test good then I would check for a parasitic draw if no current draw found then it would be off to voltage drop tests. this way you can narrow it down to batteries being faulty, or some sort of current draw, poor cables and or starter.
 
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Apologies for the late reply, the starting issue has finally been sorted and it wasn't what I thought it would be!

First off the 1hz primer was no good - 10mm lines compared to 12mm on the 1hdt pump, and with the effort required to make a reducer it was just easier to accept the air was getting in via the primer as there was no air in the lines going in but more air than fuel coming out.

Did you find that bloody screwdriver yet? :hillbilly:

Check battery voltage while you crank it. It's possible to read 12v with no load and a lot less under load if you have one or more weak cells
haha no I never did find the stubby philips head!

I didn't get much of a chance to look at it during the week but when I did the problem was alot worse, it was only just firing up, I starting thinking battery. Battery voltage was dropping as low as 6.3v while cranking only for a flash though maybe 1/10th of a second, generally it was around 8v, with no load the battery was sitting at 12.7 though, by the time the weekend rolled around it wouldn't fire off the main battery at all. I have a button on my dash that piggy backs the main battery of the deep cycle, that's the only way it would fire even then it was slow.

Also should add by this time I bought another meter of clear hose as the other stuff started to go soft threw it on and took it for a lap of the block and you could of blown me over with a straw when i got back but the fuel issue had sorted itself out.

Tried a few other things but honestly I am terrible with electrics, it is witchcraft as far as I am concerned. In the end I just put the battery on the charger overnight and put it straight in my car and tried to turn it over - no go, luckily my house mate and my old man both have 1hz powered cruisers, I figured they would be a good fair test for the battery given the are near identical motors albeit with slightly higher compression, dropped my battery in his car and it fired without hesitation.

From their it had to be the starter, old man agreed and got me a Bosch starter from a local parts shop for cheaper than eBay prices so I was pretty stoked with that, and yep problem sorted fires up quicker than ever now, hopefully it lasts, I have kept the Toyota one for now.


Have noticed the fuel issue comes and goes, local dealerships wanted ridiculous prices, amayama is out of stock in the UAE and they want twice as much for the same part via japan so bugger that. I have gone back to black fuel hose for now but will buy a few meters of clear and keep an eye on it from time to time, will just have to keep trying amayama every few weeks till they get one I guess.

Cheers guys,

Dan
 
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I think it could also be the valves on the filter head. They are supposed to stop the fuel flowing downhill back to the tank. On most filter heads they are replaceable. I think they are called "butterfly valves"
What's different between the 1HZ and 1HDT filter head? Is it only the inlet/outlet fittings. I would have thought they were interchangeable.
 
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In this video I just changed the water separator filter type for a regular diésel filter with no water separator. Did that cuz im pretty tired of toyota water separator diesel filter type I dont know about you but im gonna install a water separator system before the diésel filter and IT Will be IT for me
 
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I know this is over three years old but.... Dan, any updates? I replaced my fuel primer with a new one ($30) and a new Toyota filter. My air in the system looks identical to yours. I triple checked the o-ring being seated correctly. Also replaced the water sensor with a new one. Everything is sealed correctly.

The bubble isn't affecting the drive of the vehicle at all and my starts are lightning-fast. The shop I take my truck to with questions said the same thing as Zapallo that water-separator filters will sometimes cause air bubbles. Thoughts?
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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There should be no bubbles unless, the tank became low, you changed the filter, or there is an air leak. If there is an air leak then the air collects at a high point and ultimately grows big enough to either allow fuel to drain back to the tank or, gets pulled into the pump, and depending on the operation at the time could result in a non start scenario or a misfire for a short duration.

Regards

Dave.
 

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