1HD-FT for a swap.

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So, I am dreaming of a 1HD-FT swap in my FJ40 (would stretch it 10").
I'd be running an H55F behind the 1HD-FE through for what I am thinking here I might see if there is a way to run an NV4500 or TR4050 instead.

Seeing the prices of used 1HD-FT's, it seems that I could get a Cummins 2.8 new in the crate for the same money. I have seen mixed reviews of this engine. Proffitts uses these almost exclusively in their FJ40s as I guess it has similar power levels as a stock 1HD-T, but the R2.8 isn't well thought of in the Foton busses overseas and really isn't a Cummins design (4BT is completely out of the question).

I have seen some 1HD-FTs on Alibaba for half of what I am seeing posted in the classifieds here, but I also understand that I'd need to handle shipping, customs, and some other issues for that importation. -If anybody can chime in on those specifics I'd appreciate that.

In any case, if I got a Euro 1HD-FT from the classifieds or one from Alibaba, I figure I'd be resealing the engine and doing the BEBs at the same time.

For peace of mind, though, if I got a used engine I think I'd really want to do a full rebuild.
And I would like to up the power.
What are the sources for rebuild kits in the US?

G Turbo red wheel?
Yanmar injection pump (300hp is what I have heard these will make).
ARP head studs along with main and rod studs.

Am I talking about polishing a turd here?
 
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Nope, not polishing a turd.

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Cheers
 
Why H55F? Why not H151F that was used with that engine?

If you plan to do a full rebuild from the get go, you can probably worry less about the source. Plan to spend $10k.

You could also try to source something you can drop in and run it without touching it for a long time.

HD-FT aren't known to have BEB issues.
 
My experience with 2.5 litre turbo diesel in a 4x4 is not inspiring.
-Lag, lag, lag, then launch.
-Zero torque/ power below 2000rpm
-Need to keep them revving, they'll shift gears and rev their tits off if your strip on it to pass or merge
-They are always hunting for gears ( work ute will regularly drop from D6 to D4 or D3. 8speed trans. It takes forever and is annoying AF)

Vs my experience with turbo diesel Toyota I6
-torque to climb a brick wall from close to idle
-power in reserve for passing, towing etc
-lazy power
-plenty of blue sky if you want to turn up the wick for more power.

R28 power and torque numbers are similar to a stock HD-FT, but from 60% of the cubic inches. This means it's much more highly strung from the get go
 
Why H55F? Why not H151F that was used with that engine?

If you plan to do a full rebuild from the get go, you can probably worry less about the source. Plan to spend $10k.

You could also try to source something you can drop in and run it without touching it for a long time.

HD-FT aren't known to have BEB issues.

The H151F is too long for a 40 series. I might be able to get away with it in a 40 that has been stretched 10" but I also have a good source for new H55F and split case. Also, the split case has a number of low range gearing options vs the HF1A/HF2A.
 
I know a Foton owner who had two Cummins 2.8 engines by 100,000km. I know several 100 series owners and only one had engine trouble. The injection pump was replaced under warranty 22 years ago.

The 1HD-FT/E was the best diesel Toyota has ever made.
 
Maybe take a look into 15B- FT rather than 1hd-ft. Better fitment for the 40 series.

I have looked into it, it's not appealing enough to me to warrant trying to track one down, maintain it, get parts, etc.
The 1HD-FT appeals mostly because of the possibility of turning it up with a Yanmar pump and G-Turbo.

Honestly, If I wasn't going to do a Toyota 1HD the Isuzu 4BD1/2T is more realistically my second choice, as those are very common where I live.
 
I am looking more into this option.

I keep dreaming of a healthy 1HD-FT in my FJ40, but I'd plan to use the H55F.
Where my quesiton here is, would a H55F stand up behind a healthy 1HD-FT?
I am looking at running a G-Turbo Spoolius Caesar, and injection pump.

Would I be asking for trouble with a H55f behind something like this?
Would I need to reconsider the H150 and HF2A setup?
 
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Another question, for those that have done the G-Turbo option in HDJ-80s, how is the rear end holding up?

Would it be reasonable to adapt a 1HD-FT to a TR4050 or NV5600 and AtlasII transfer case to run a US domestic brand full floater of choice (dana 60, Ford 9, 14 bolt) in the rear?
Am I speaking heresy?
 
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I am looking more into this option.

I keep dreaming of a healthy 1HD-FT in my FJ40, but I'd plan to use the H55F.
Where my quesiton here is, would a H55F stand up behind a healthy 1HD-FT?
Yes. There are loads of H55Fs behind V8s putting out more power and torque and they hold up fine.
 
Seems like there's some homework needed to piece together the needed clutch parts to work with a H55 input and the larger 1HD* flywheels. I know it's been discussed but I don't remember where. I think you have to use a 1HDT/H151 pressure plate and like some Isuzu light industrial engine friction disc, IIRC.
 
Seems like there's some homework needed to piece together the needed clutch parts to work with a H55 input and the larger 1HD* flywheels. I know it's been discussed but I don't remember where. I think you have to use a 1HDT/H151 pressure plate and like some Isuzu light industrial engine friction disc, IIRC.
What? These parts? :D

1HD-T 300mm Pressure plate $20931210-60121
300mm 1HD-T Flywheel$37813405-17020 or 13405-17010
300mm Isuzu Clutch$179 Isuzu 8-94462789-3 or 8-97162966-1 or GMC 94462789 or GMC 97162966
 
Does anybody have experience buying/importing an engine off Alibaba whether good or bad? I imported a diesel from a private seller in Aus a while back, the process was relatively painless. I used a customs broker.
 
Does anybody have experience buying/importing an engine off Alibaba whether good or bad? I imported a diesel from a private seller in Aus a while back, the process was relatively painless. I used a customs broker.
Well, I was considering this route, but then after speaking with a number of people who have purchased 2JZ-GTSs and RB26DETT from Alibaba, it was a roll of the dice and I'd have to consider the motor a rebuildable core, rather than something ready to install and run.
Adding up the rebuild parts and the go-fast parts to get it to 300hp/550FT*LBS got REALLY expensive REALLY fast.

I have decided that a 1HD-FT(E) wasn't worth the effort to make a powerful and reliable one, so if I am going to do an inline 6 oil burner, there are other options that were imported to the US en mass where the engines are cheap and plentiful and can make 300hp.550 FT*LBS with little more than an ECU tune.

Right now, it's looking like if I do an oil burner in my FJ40 project, it's going to be an EGR/DPF deleted M57 from *looks around nervously* BMW.
I See salvage X5 35d xdrive models going at auto auction for next to nothing (one sold near me for a $25 bid).
Junkyards have good running M57s for the same price, or often cheaper than, 2UZs.
 
Tell us again why you want 300hp in a 40 series? They don't have the brakes, handling or wheelbase to use anywhere near it.
A 40 series with an original engine will keep going up in value. A 40 series with a BMW engine will never be worth anywhere close to it.
 
Tell us again why you want 300hp in a 40 series? They don't have the brakes, handling or wheelbase to use anywhere near it.
A 40 series with an original engine will keep going up in value. A 40 series with a BMW engine will never be worth anywhere close to it.

Because 300hp spins 40 swampers quite nicely.
Once you cut off the spring hangers and do a SOA.
Add Saginaw Power Steering.
Swap in an SM420
Do 4 wheel disc brakes.
Link the suspension.
Swap in an aluminum body
OR even do a 1HD-FT swap, the value goes down vs a bone stock vehicle.

I have owned my FJ40 for 26 years now, longer than most. I have no plans to sell it once I get done building it.

I was disappointed with the FJ Cruiser because this community was teased with the Bandeirante based prototypes that TLC built back in the early 00s. Thats the FJ Cruiser I wanted, but we never got. I am building my Land Cruiser for me, and I am building the FJ Cruiser that I feel Toyota should have. I'd absolutely love to keep it all Toyota drivetrain, but paying $10k for a clapped out 1HD-FT (plus however much I'd have to spend to obtain all of the other parts to run a H151) doesn't sit right with me, as I feel, even if it was stock power with no power adders, I'd be sitting on a ticking time bomb unless I rebuilt the motor.
 
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