Fram ? ...sigh. still great job tho,haha
1FZ-FE Rebuild - Restoring my FZJ80 from an early demise
- Thread starter bryanb
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Fram ? ...sigh. still great job tho,haha
for a break in i see no reason to spend the money on a good filter. he will probably be changing the oil just minutes after it first starts to get all the lube out of it.
I got moist reading this thread. With my primary 80 (also a sage 40th) going under the knife for a new HG next week, I'm hugely envious seeing this rebuild. I wish I had the time and knowledge to go this route myself, but sadly the hardest work I will do on mine this time around is handing over the check....
I am in an epic eternal duel with fram, feel free to ignore me like that crazy uncle who screams at the mail box
I'm not offering advice but I would not use fram for anything, much in the same way that I wouldn't feed the bears or trust a politician,not even once.
- Thread starter
- #25
I am in an epic eternal duel with fram, feel free to ignore me like that crazy uncle who screams at the mail box
I don't necessarily have a vendetta against FRAM, but I typically use WIX 51515 on this engine, which is what will go on after break in. For initial start up and the first couple hours of operation, I will use this fram xtra guard. Hopefully it doesn't ruin the entire project.
- Thread starter
- #26
Final shot before the valve cover goes on
Valve cover installed with new pcv valve and oil cap
Intake installed and harness in place. Hooked up injectors. Installed distributor and cap, egr tube, intake support, etc...
New exhaust studs installed. Probably not necessary.
Alternator brushes replaced:
Vacuum hoses installed. Heater pipe resting in place. Exhaust manifolds painted and installed
Valve cover installed with new pcv valve and oil cap
Intake installed and harness in place. Hooked up injectors. Installed distributor and cap, egr tube, intake support, etc...
New exhaust studs installed. Probably not necessary.
Alternator brushes replaced:
Vacuum hoses installed. Heater pipe resting in place. Exhaust manifolds painted and installed
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Umm, which bolt? Which bolt did that? Did you find the culprit?
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Nice work! Reading this thread gave me a short refresh of what I've nearly finished myself.
- Thread starter
- #31
One of the oil pan bolts was "misplaced" during a previous service.
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- Thread starter
- #32
Used original cams. They had no discernible wear.
- Thread starter
- #33
got the condenser out of the way to prepare for install
anti seize on the exhaust studs
Stupid $15 vacuum hose. thanks Mr. T!
Pulley bolt torqued to 305lb/ft. It took a bit of effort to source a torque wrench and figure out how to keep the crank from rotating as we tightened it.
Ready to have the trans attached
anti seize on the exhaust studs
Stupid $15 vacuum hose. thanks Mr. T!
Pulley bolt torqued to 305lb/ft. It took a bit of effort to source a torque wrench and figure out how to keep the crank from rotating as we tightened it.
Ready to have the trans attached
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I'm about to pull mine as well for a at minimum a timing chain set and HG. Well see what else we find.
Engine looks great! I would like to hear more about how you prepped and painted everything. Thanks!
Awesome looking engine !
High Quality Work!
- Thread starter
- #40
The block was cleaned in a warm detergent bath (many engine builders have this set up) prior to the align hone and decking. This was sufficient to prep the block for paint. We used Duplicolor Engine spray paint in Cast Iron color.
We prepped the valve cover by cleaning in a parts washer (stoddard solvent/mineral spirits) and a final prep/wipe down with carb cleaner. We used Wrinkle Black paint and then highlighted the "toyota" and "24 valve" by scraping the paint with a flat razor just before it cured and then gently running a flat file over the letters.