1997 FZJ80 Rehabilitation (1 Viewer)

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Nov 9, 2012
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Olathe, KS, USA
 
Is the radiator cap the OEM one (TRAD) that came with the radiator or an aftermarket part?

Also, I would recommend replacing the oil fill cap with an OEM with the new seal and such in it as well.

Also, the PS cap appears to be leaking and could do with a new cap as well to stop the leak from the top. I did those two caps and a gas cap to get mine all freshened up and it reduced the leaks.
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
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413
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Pensacola, FL
Is the radiator cap the OEM one (TRAD) that came with the radiator or an aftermarket part?

Also, I would recommend replacing the oil fill cap with an OEM with the new seal and such in it as well.

Also, the PS cap appears to be leaking and could do with a new cap as well to stop the leak from the top. I did those two caps and a gas cap to get mine all freshened up and it reduced the leaks.
The rad cap is the OEM one that came on the new radiator. I was puzzled by the sticker as well but the cap appears to be the correct one and my old one was trashed so I didn't look into it any further. As for the oil filler cap, it's clearly not OEM but it has an o-ring and seals fine so it will stay where it is. You're right about the PS cap. I need a new one along with a new gas cap as well.
 
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The truck, like many on here, is a work in progress. I'm doing what I can as fast as I can. Next problems to tackle are exhaust system, a top end refresh, and tightening up the steering.
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
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504
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Clovis, CA
 
 
Congratulations, you got an ugly one! :beer:
LOL @Heckraiser

OP, I think I recognize your rig. I had no clue it was originally red. Looks like the PHH is already done.

 
Joined
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LOL @Heckraiser

OP, I think I recognize your rig. I had no clue it was originally red. Looks like the PHH is already done.

Yup, that's mine. PO was/is a Mud member. Don't know if you know him.
 
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No worries, but you are correct about the 80. I've greatly enjoyed the truck as-is but it's in need of some love and I'm trying to get her back up to snuff as quick as my wallet will allow.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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The rad cap is the OEM one that came on the new radiator. I was puzzled by the sticker as well but the cap appears to be the correct one and my old one was trashed so I didn't look into it any further. As for the oil filler cap, it's clearly not OEM but it has an o-ring and seals fine so it will stay where it is. You're right about the PS cap. I need a new one along with a new gas cap as well.
That radiator cap is identical to what came on my Trad last year. I prefer the yellow sticker with cute symbols on it. I bought a new PS cap and it still leaks while wheeling but not quite as much. Aaand, I'm still eyeballing that burrito warmer.......... haven't built mine yet.
 
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Ok so looking ahead trying to figure out what to do with the exhaust. I've searched on the forums and done some reading in the past. What I found can be summed up by the following:
1.) OEM lasts really well (big surprise there)
2.) OEM is expensive as the dickens
3.) Most people seem to opt for some form of custom exhaust
4.) Many people have used/are using the Magnaflow y-pipe as part of their system

When looking at the OEM parts, the y-pipe and second cat are the most expensive. I can't drop over 3k just in exhaust parts so I had been considering a semi-custom job using the Magnaflow y-pipe, OEM manifolds, and having a shop do the remaining cat-back stuff. I really want the exhaust to be quiet. Mine drones now and I hate it. I plan on taking some very long trips in this truck in the future and I want to be able to hear myself think while I'm doing it. That being the case I had been looking for feedback on what muffler to use, whether or not to use a resonator, etc. ...then I got to thinking, why not use the OEM cat back set up, manifolds, and the Magnaflow y-pipe? Everything should mount via the factory hardware and everything should play nice together except for the gap between the y-pipe and the upstream end of the muffler piece. This would require a short piece of pipe to bridge the gap (since I wouldn't put the second cat in). I was contemplating just cutting the bolt flanges off of the y-pipe and muffler assembly, welding round flanges on, and making a matching section of pipe with flanges to facilitate the use of two v-band clamps. This would save almost $1500 and as far as I can see it accomplishes my goal of having a sturdy, quiet exhaust. Am I thinking straight?
 

Bambusiero

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Apr 11, 2005
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Chandler, AZ
 
 
 
...intermittent P0401 code...cut out clogged cats...
When you cut out the "clogged cats" did you look inside and actually see that they were clogged? curious what did it look like? how did you know they were clogged? to decide to do that?

wait...what's that dull thudding sound I hear in the distance? Oh oh run! hide your truck in the woods -the Fed black helicopters are coming for you! ;)

My thought on your OEM Y-pipes is that they are about 10x the quality and long term durability of anything you can buy at a modest price. I would try to keep them, have someone patch 'em up if needed?
 
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When you cut out the "clogged cats" did you look inside and actually see that they were clogged? curious what did it look like? how did you know they were clogged? to decide to do that?

wait...what's that dull thudding sound I hear in the distance? Oh oh run! hide your truck in the woods -the Fed black helicopters are coming for you! ;)

My thought on your OEM Y-pipes is that they are about 10x the quality and long term durability of anything you can buy at a modest price. I would try to keep them, have someone patch 'em up if needed?
I had severe power loss that was intermittent. I took the no. 1 O2 sensor out on a whim. Suddenly, no more power loss. So, out came the Sawzall. And yes, I looked through them after they were cut out and it was black as night. No light coming through whatsoever. They were plugged good. No regrets on cutting them out, now I just need to put new ones in.
 
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Jan 26, 2010
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Clovis, CA
 
 
I think your only options are made overseas for non-OEM manifolds. Ex:

Magnaflow has some domestic options for exhaust.

I believe @OTRAMM has a cat back exhaust. His how to videos are awesome too.
 
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I think your only options are made overseas for non-OEM manifolds. Ex:

Magnaflow has some domestic options for exhaust.

I believe @OTRAMM has a cat back exhaust. His how to videos are awesome too.
Yeah the OTRAMM exhaust looks sweet but is also out of my price range for cat-back. OEM is still cheaper - not 304 and shiny, but cheaper.
 
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Again, my current thought isn't to do a 100% custom exhaust. In fact, I'd go 100% OEM if my pockets were that deep...but there isn't a snowball's chance in hades that I'm paying almost 2k for a Toyota y-pipe and second cat....so I'll just substitute for those parts via Magnaflow and a short stint of pipe. Using v-bands will facilitate easy replacement of the "connector pipe", if you will, whenever it rusts out.
 
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Colorado
 
 
Yes that aught to work fine. Make sure you get a real magnaflow, if a bosal comes int he box, send it back (search "magnaflow now owns bosal" or words to that effect). You'll have to fabricate the cat delete pipe, or just buy the magnaflow 2nd cat, but everything should bolt up assuming nobody has butchered your exhaust mounts or they're not rusted off. Use OEM donut gaskets, not the ones that come with the magnaflow. They seal up better.

Where are you finding this reasonable price on the OEM muffler and tail pipe? If it is truly reasonable, mine is about ready at 335k :hillbilly:
 
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Yes that aught to work fine. Make sure you get a real magnaflow, if a bosal comes int he box, send it back (search "magnaflow now owns bosal" or words to that effect). You'll have to fabricate the cat delete pipe, or just buy the magnaflow 2nd cat, but everything should bolt up assuming nobody has butchered your exhaust mounts or they're not rusted off. Use OEM donut gaskets, not the ones that come with the magnaflow. They seal up better.

Where are you finding this reasonable price on the OEM muffler and tail pipe? If it is truly reasonable, mine is about ready at 335k :hillbilly:
Haha nobody said it was "reasonable", just cheaper than OTRAMM's cat back. His stainless runs in the neighborhood of $1800 (looks like really nice work, so no offense to him). I found OEM cat back for just over $700. Now, cat-back is the key here. OEM cats and y-pipe are ridiculous. Here's the link for the OEM stuff: Exhaust Components for 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser | Toyota Parts
 
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It looks like somebody removed the factory exhaust brackets for the muffler and the tailpipe. I'll have to order new ones along with new hardware...but I knew about that when I started this thread. I still have the front factory bracket for the muffler section.
 
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Apr 17, 2018
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Pensacola, FL
OK, so it's been a couple months of gathering parts and deciding what I could and couldn't afford. I'm not moving til the end of the year and it looks like the cruiser is going to be driven to our new location, not towed. That being said, I want it safe to drive at highway speeds as my wife and my son will be in it. So, let's begin with an update:

As noted earlier in the thread, I replaced the following parts a couple months ago:
Radiator
Radiator coolant hoses
Drive belts
Heater control valve
Thermostat

I then decided that my list of future repairs needed to be adjusted based primarily on budget but also on time constraints and work environment. I won't be pursuing the head gasket job at the current time. Some good points were brought up about "don't fix what's not broke". I still want to do this in the future but I'll probably try to wait until I have the money for a more comprehensive rebuild.

Now that the HG is off the table, I plan to do the following in preparation for the long drive ahead of us (moving) :
Engine
Spark plug wires
Plugs
Distributor cap and rotor
Spark plug tube seals
Valve cover gasket
All new vacuum lines
New VSV, check valve, etc
Fuel filter
New intake gaskets
New TB gasket
Accelerator cable
New evap hoses where needed
Brakes
New rotors
Rebuild calipers
All new soft lines
New MC
Suspension
Replace all suspension linkage bushings
new hardware for bushings where recommended
LandTank castor correction plates

I have knuckle rebuild kits and wheel bearings for front and rear axles if necessary but the current plan is to inspect bearings for play using LandTank's method and hopefully leave them alone. I'll top off the knuckles with new grease and call it a day unless I discover that a rebuild is necessary.

Summary of Goals:
1.)Address known minor leaks/wear parts
2.)Achieve safe driving characteristics at interstate speeds (castor correction and new brakes)
 

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