Build 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup

[Will Van]

Need advice - Supposedly the truck has 36,000 kms on it. I have no reason to believe it has more, but you never know with an imported truck.

I know I am going to install a new timing belt and tensioner. But should I go ahead and pull the No. 1 cam gear and cam oil seal retainer and install a new water pump and cam seal? What about front crank seal?

My inclination is to leave the water pump and front seals alone. The cooling system is performing well, and the seals aren’t leaking.

What do y’all think?

 

[orangefj45]

Nice find, congrats to the purchase.

Not sure why everybody is freaking out about the split rims. I've driven thousands of miles on them without issues, and there are countless vehicles around the world that run them ........ Every day

 

[Will Van]

Nice find, congrats to the purchase.

Not sure why everybody is freaking out about the split rims. I've driven thousands of miles on them without issues, and there are countless vehicles around the world that run them ........ Every day

There you have it @Honger - Justification from the man himself!!!

 

[RHINO]

about te seals,,, if they arent leaking after the drive home, i tend to agree with your inclination

 

[orangefj45]

about te seals,,, if they arent leaking after the drive home, i tend to agree with your inclination

Agreed

 

[coldtaco]

if your in there why not replace the water pump if it's still original?

 

[joekatana]

Replace the water pump at the same as the timing belt as one of the bolts from the water pump is hiding behind the timing belt anyways , front main seal is not really an issue with the 1HZ so I would leave that alone

 

[Will Van]

Replace the water pump at the same as the timing belt as one of the bolts from the water pump is hiding behind the timing belt anyways , front main seal is not really an issue with the 1HZ so I would leave that alone

10-4. What about cam seal? Go ahead and replace?

 

[joekatana]

10-4. What about cam seal? Go ahead and replace?

It usually comes with the timing belt kit so I replace them

 

[Will Van]

Decided to “quickly” swap over my drive flanges to the Aisin manual locking hubs.

Broke an M8x1.25 stud while running my impact the wrong direction (“Sh*t!!!”).

I was able to get it out with an EZ-Out, but slowed me down pretty good.

I decided to go ahead and replace all of the studs, cone washers, split washers, nuts, and gaskets while I’m at it. They were all pretty gnarly.

What is your favorite tool to remove M8x1.25 studs? I have always used the “double-nut” method with mixed results.

 

[renago]

Very nice truck ,
You will find a lot of small things that need to repaired or changed due to the age and corrosion.
With VIN , and an account with parts out all parts ,and VISA card are read aviable .
Will take some time , but you will have a rig that will ride very nicely.
Keep it as much as possible stock .

 

[OGBeno]

Assenmacher Specialty Tools 201 Metric Stud Remover/Installer Set - 4 Piece Amazon product ASIN B00063UMZ4

 

[MrMikeyG]

congratulations man.

 

[Will Van]

I remembered I had a stud-remover kit after @Onur posted the link. I was able to get all of the studs out using the double-nut method, except for one. The last one was pretty mangled from hammering on it to knock the cone washer loose (I usually use a brass drift, but this one wouldn’t budge unless I hit it directly). Luckily, the stud came out easily with the stud-remover tool.

I decided to clean out all the threads to prep for new hardware.

Then I prepped the mating flanges with some Scotch Brite (to remove the old gasket material, applied a small coat of oil to prevent them from flash-rusting, and temporarily reinstalled the drive flanges to keep dirt out until the hardware arrives.

That’s all for now. I probably won’t have more updates until more parts arrive next week.

 

[Will Van]

Does anyone have a coolant flush/cleaner that they like?

I pulled the overflow tank to see if I could clean it up. It’s obvious to me that there is tons of rust and buildup in the cooling system. Obviously I can replace the overflow tank, but what about the rest of the system? I’ve read lots of people have luck with Thermocure for rusty coolant systems.

What do y’all think?

 

[rick_d]

I have no luck cleaning the tanks and just found a replacement on ebay. I have written before but If you are in replacing the timing belt and water pump etc pull the injection pump and the oil cooler cover and inspect. If you want then you can replace the cover with the 17012 version which accepts the filter drip tray a $69 part from amayama as of April 2021- see compete acsd delete thread. Oxalic Acid/Baking soda wash is best to clean system - see thread, a GM service bulletin exists to clean the heater on some cars.

 

[RHINO]

I usually run a gallon of vinegar for a couple heat cycles or a couple days around town.

I know nothing about thermocure, but I'll check it out.

 

[Honger]

Loving where this is going… good tech on the stud removers, had always just used the double nut method.

 

[Will Van]

Yesterday was my birthday. The Pickup has dual fuel tanks, but the button was broken on the dash for switching the tanks over. Everything worked, you just had to use the end of a pen or a punch to activate the remaining stub of the button.

My brother bought me this replacement for my birthday! Now I just need to figure out how to install it.

My father also replaced my old Craftsman tool chest with a very nice unit from Costco! I have so much storage space now, I need to buy more tools.

And finally, the best gift from my wife! I now have a charcoal grill, an offset slow smoker, and a gas grill. Raw meat doesn't stand a chance in my backyard.

Overall a great Memorial Day holiday and a great birthday!

 

[Gun Runner 5]

In a sense you’re lucky, it’s usually the transfer valve that eventually fails.